This is a very basic skimmer, if you are just starting out and want to build your own, this will most definitely get the job done.
MSRv007 - http://www.cardreaderfactory.com/shop/msrv007.html
Casting Resin can be bought from a variety of companies - http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail....lite%20Regular
Camera – a variety of pinhole cameras can be used, wired or wireless, cheap or expensive http://cgi.ebay.com/Hidden-SPY-DVR-P...item23085260e6
It's simple because it contains internal flash memory to store the info instead of needing a separate dvr.
Modeling Clay – Can literally be bought anywhere
Latex gloves – Same as above
Gorilla super glue – Once again, same as above
Spray paint - “”
Soldering iron (optional) – This is optional but it is very useful if you need something slightly altered or to make the hole for the camera. - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
is the one I use
WD40 or other lubrication agent (optional) – allows you to easily remove the resin mold from the clay and can also be used to easily remove clay to make a cast
Making a mold of the bezel
There are two options when making a mold, the cheap fast route and the preferable long and efficient route. The cheap route is similar to that crappy guide on the internet about the msr500m crap. I'll cover them both.
Cheap – Alright what you want to do for the cheap route is pretty simple and there are two routes. First you can indeed go to an ATM in the middle of the night with your WD40 and modeling clay. Once you do that and press it to the ATM and wait about 2 minutes for it to somewhat harden and take it off, you will have a decent impression of the reader. I would spray an extremely thin layer of WD40 onto the ATM reader before pressing the clay to get a solid mold and make it come off easily. Once you do this, you can place the mold into a custom box made of wood or anything that is small and square. Once you do this you simply pour your resin kit into the mold, and you're done. This method IS NOT PREFERABLE.
When I first started I would simply take the clay, and go to the ATMs that have a flat black reader face (http://www.knoxvilleyankee.com/uploa...ATM-709642.jpg
) with those I would get a basic imprint but not as a mold but for dimensions. I would go back to my place and use another modeling clay and shave away at the clay in the right dimensions to make a more finished and correct ATM bezel. I would then shave out the middle piece the same size as a real reader and insert an object in there to stop the resin from filling the hole such as a piece of cardboard paper the correct size. Once I did this I would cast a mold and it would honestly, not look bad. These are the cheap less preferred methods.
Better – This method involves ordering additional parts and casting a full mold. With this method you would scope out the target ATM, and find a replacement bezel on ebay. Once you received the bezel, cast a mold using 1 of two options. Option 1 Use two pieces of modeling clay and put the real OEM bezel in the middle and make a mold. Once the clay hardens you remove it, and you have a perfect mold. Also coat the bezel in WD40 or another lubricant to promote no sticking of the clay. Option two is preferable, Make a mold of the bezel using silicone rubber. Place the bezel in a box with two pieces of very thin string (I use dental floss) connected to both sized to keep the bezel suspended. Fill the box with silicone, and when the silicone dries, remove the bezel. You then have a firm, yet flexible mold of the bezel. This will allow every cast you make to look perfectly OEM, this costs more and takes more time, but for the best parts, it's worth it.
Making a mold for the camera
This is much easier and very similar to making a mold for the bezel the second cheap method. I simply go up to an ATM, choose an area that is not noticed by people, far enough from the pin pad to not be noticed or look suspicious even if noticed, but close enough to record the pin clearly. I simply measure the dimensions of the aforementioned area, and carve out my own custom mold. Once I do so, I make sure to make the mold at least ¼ of an inch deep. Once this is completed, you pour your resin kit in, and insert an correctly cut piece of cardboard (very thick) into this middle to create a hollow area. Once this has hardened fully, remove the cardboard and the new ATM piece and determine where to place the camera lense (preferably in the middle). Take the soldering iron, and make a small hole of at least 3 mm, work from the inside out to leave as little evidence on the outside as possible, all of the melted plastic will pool on the side you begin work. So this way, nobody notices on the outside, but the inside will have a distinctive mark (which will never be seen).
Once you finish the mold for both the camera and the bezel I use a flat black spray paint and paint two thin layers of paint across the ENTIRE front and back of both the camera and the bezel. Paint in the same motion obviously, I do left to right in a sweeping motion, if you deviate from the motion, it becomes obvious in the paint.
Assembling the skimmer
When you order the MSRv007 it comes with the rail nowadays, just remove the head from the rail, very simple process, aside from that, there is no other disassembly required for the reader. When removing the head from the rail, don't be gentle of afraid that you're going to break it, it's a bitch to do and the rail never survives. I just break the rail to remove the head. Once you do this, take your bezel, you should have molded, and attach the MSRv007 pieces to the back. They are very thin and do not take much room, use a dremel or soldering iron if necessary to make an indentation to insert the required components (microchip board thing, wires, reader head). Also, remove a small area or at least make the USB plug accessible without having to remove all of the components. Slowly glue in all of the MSRv007 with VERY light glue. Starting with chipset and battery, and finishing with the magnetic head, make sure this is perfectly positioned before you permanently attach it. This can be a bitch the first time, getting the positioning correct. Once you do so, secure everything with some tape. Not scotch tape either, heavy duty tape.
Once you do this, your bezel is complete, onto the camera. If you purchased the camera I referenced earlier, it is very simply to use. First of all remove it from it's housing. Once you do this, just pop open the housing. Inside you will see all of the inner workings including the flash card and the battery. You should have already made the hole for the camera lens, simply tape down the camera. Once you do this, I would upgrade the memory, as the one included only records for I believe 2 hours. Once you have this accomplished, assuming you want to record for more than the standard amount of time provided get out your nokia batteries. One battery provides 9-11 hours of battery life, it actually varies for me by shipment. The camera has two leads leading to it's own li-ion battery, remove the battery, strip the leads and cut the wire. Once you do this, attach two more wires to the original stripped wires, and lead the new extended positive and negative wires to your nokia li-ion battery. On the battery is it clearly indicated which is positive and negative, attach as directed. Your camera now lasts an obscene amount of time.
-Drive-through bank owned preferably older ATMs. Choose a bank that doesn't limit ATM withdrawal horribly. Chase = good, Wachovia = terrible.
-Sunday 9 AM placement is idea, bank is closed, people are forced to use ATM, you also get the church crowd and then everybody else if you leave it until 3-5 PM. A good ATM you can get 100 dumps + pins in that time frame.
-You can easily cash out in day time, sunglasses and a fake beard and hat were made for this reason.
-Never use your city.
-Never drive up to ATM.
-Collect all the skims for multiple days/weeks then do a cashout in 1 large run on the 15th -17th or the 1st -3rd of each month.
-Use 5-10 ATM cards on 1 atm at a time when cashing out, for $500 each then haul ass out.
This is how to build a basic, yet competent skimmer that works in todays world, not like the mini123ex guide you see on the internet.
This is 100% original, and written by Brutus on zoklet.net You are free to copy this guide as long as credit is given and it is in it's entirety.
Any questions feel free to post here or contact me via PM.