I got a 30 dollar amazon gift card and I want a new knife.
Either this mtech stainless bowie:http://www.amazon.com/M-Tech-Fixed-Blade-Bowie-Classic/dp/B001F4VXEC/ref=sr_1_11/177-0836114-6231666?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1282244677&sr=8-11
or this cold steel tanto:http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-GI-Tanto/dp/B001S87WPY/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4
The mtech is bigger and looks more like I want my new knife to look. The tanto looks like a rough ass lil motherfucker and carbon steal is supposed to be the strongest. If you see anything better for under 30 (due to shipping) link it.
i dont think that one is actually carbon, is it?
also considering this bitch^^
Then again, most modern knives come with rust-resistant coating, so maintenance might not be so much of an issue. Sir Rolf would personally choose the tanto, though either choice is fine.
Why do you want a fixed blade knife? You need to look at what you're going to do with the knife. For most people a folder will be more practical. The Kershaw Skyline I linked to is made in the USA, 14C28 steel, G10 handle and the blade is stonewashed, making it even more rust resistant. It also only weighs 2.3 oz.
Steel has many attributes.
: Just like it sounds, wear resistance is the ability to withstand abrasion. Generally speaking, the amount, type, and distribution of carbides within the steel is what determines wear resistance.
: The ability to take a load without permanently deforming. For many types of jobs, strength is extremely important. Any time something hard is being cut, or there's lateral stress put on the edge, strength becomes a critical factor. In steels, strength is directly correlated with hardness -- the harder the steel, the stronger it is. Note that with the Rockwell test used to measure hardness in a steel, it is the hardness of the steel matrix being measured, not the carbides. This, it's possible for a softer, weaker steel (measuring low on the Rockwell scale) to have more wear resistance than a harder steel. S60V, even at 56 Rc, still has more and harder carbides than ATS-34 at 60 Rc, and thus the S60V is more wear resistant, while the ATS-34 would be stronger.
: The ability to take an impact without damage, by which we mean, chipping, cracking, etc. Toughness is obviously important in jobs such as chopping, but it's also important any time the blade hits harder impurities in a material being cut (e.g., cardboard, which often has embedded impurities).
The knifemaker will be making a tradeoff of strength versus toughness. Generally speaking, within the hardness range that the steel performs well at, as hardness increases, strength also increases, but toughness decreases. This is not always strictly true, but as a rule of thumb is generally accurate. In addition, it is possible for different heat treat formulas to leave the steel at the same hardness, but with properties such as toughness, wear resistance, and stain resistance significantly differing.
(rust resistance) : The ability to withstand rust (oxidation). Obviously, this property can be helpful in corrosive environments, such as salt water. In addition, some types of materials are acidic (e.g., some types of foods), and micro-oxidation can lead to edge loss at the very tip of the edge, over a small amount of time. In "stainless" cutlery steels, stain resistance is most affected by free chromium -- that is, chromium that is not tied up in carbides. So, the more chromium tied up in carbides, the less free chromium there is, which means more wear resistance but less stain resistance.
: The ability of a blade to hold an edge. Many people make the mistake of thinking wear resistance and edge holding are the same thing. Most assuredly, it is not; or rather, it usually is not. Edge holding is job-specific. That is, edge holding is a function of wear resistance, strength, and toughness. But different jobs require different properties for edge holding. For example, cutting through cardboard (which often has hard embedded impurities), toughness becomes extremely important, because micro-chipping is often the reason for edge degradation. Whittling very hard wood, strength becomes very important for edge-holding, because the primary reason for edge degradation is edge rolling and impaction. Wear resistance becomes more important for edge holding when very abrasive materials, such as carpet, are being cut. And for many jobs, where corrosion- inducing materials are contacted (such as food prep), corrosion can affect the edge quickly, so corrosion resistance has a role to play as well.
There are other properties that significantly effect how a steel performs:
Ability to take an edge
: Some steels just seem to take a much sharper edge than other steels, even if sharpened the exact same way. Finer-grained steels just seem to get scary sharp much more easily than coarse-grained steels, and this can definitely effect performance. Adding a bit of vanadium is an easy way to get a fine-grained steels. In addition, an objective of the forging process is to end up with a finer-grained steel. So both steel choice,and the way that steel is handled, can effect cutting performance.
: Cleaner, purer steels perform better than dirtier, impure steels. The cleaner steel will often be stronger and tougher, having less inclusions. High quality processes used to manufacture performance steel include the Argon/Oxygen/Decarburization (AOD) process, and for even purer steel, the Vacuum Induction Melting/Vacuum Arc Remelting (VIM/VAR) process, often referred to as double vacuum melting or vacuum re-melting.
: Some steels seem to cut aggressively even when razor polished. For these steels, even when they're polished for push-cutting, their carbides form a kind of "micro serrations" and slice aggressively.
The Kershaw Skyline is probably the best $30 folder out there. I'd suggest not buying some huge ass knife unless you really have a use for it. If you're buying it because it "looks cool" then get whatever. If you want a knife that'll last, 1095 is a good choice, but you have to apply oil and keep the knife dry or it'll rust a lot easier than a stainless steel blade. Carbon steel isn't necessarily "the strongest" either. All steels have a combination of attributes. Some are better for different tasks than others. 14C28, 440C, and 1095 are all good steels that you should be able to find in the $30 range. The 420 steel of that mtech knife is low quality junk, by the way. The 1055 steel in the Cold Steel knife is not that great either. It's a lot softer than 1095 steel. You should go for a higher quality blade steel, like the ones I've listed.
What are you planning on doing with the knife? If you answer this I can suggest some more knives to check out. Do you really want a carbon steel blade or would you be happy with a stainless one?
This knife aint too bad for the price. 1055 steel is kind of soft, although it is harder than the 420 steel used in the Mtech but at the cost of lower corrosion resistance. I wouldnt be too bad in performing as a knife for light, everyday use. out of the two you suggested, i would go for this knife. Cold steel is a fairly reputable company. not sure what sheath is uses though
ive got this. two of them actually. i have this one and the longer, magnum kukri machete.
this knife is a decent deal, in my opinion. in a sense, you still get what you pay for: it is a 1055 blade, just like the CS GI tanto suggested above, but note that you get a lot more steel for almost the same price, and the kukri is a chopping implement, where toughness is important (1055 may be soft, but its tough - big difference)
cold steel even says to you that this knife, as well as others in their machete series of knives is supposed to be cheap and disposable. the way they keep the cost down is to let you do your own sharpening, which they expect you to do. the knife will come out of the box not only dull as a brick, but the edge will be of extremely low quality - jagged and full of burrs and whatnot. you NEED to go over the edge with a sharpening rod (not really a stone, since there is a concave edge) to get it to a usable state.
in the end, you will get what you pay for. at that price, the most useful knives you will get are high value, low budget folding knives.
A Kabar Dozier Hunter cost me around $USD20 and has an AUS8 stainless steel blade: not something you expect at such a low price price.
Other high value, low budget folders i have include:
CRKT Drifter, $18. 8Cr14MoV steel
CRKT M16-01Z, $16 AUS6 steel
Victorinox Tinker (swiss army knife), $23
EDIT: AWW SHIT, they started making the Matriarch again!
P.S. that shit is rust proof coated so its even a little bit better for the money then you thought. even though im not buyin it ive had an mtech folder and an mtech balsong and they were amazingly knife for the price. i think that mtech makes pretty good pocket knives, but I wouldnt go for any of their other shit and I wouldnt waste my time with them if I had more money, pretty damn good knives though.
Also I might get this bitch: http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Knife-Fixed-Spear/dp/B001DZNZBM/ref=pd_sim_sg_4
its all the same arguments as the tanto, but a diff knife, also possibly a better handle even if i have to rewrap it. opinions?
get 6 of them. they're terrorists #1 choice.
The "rust proof" coating isn't worth much, and especially not at this price point. It'll wear off on the edge and your blade will rust there. Cosmetic rust isn't really a problem. Damaging rust is, obviously. If your edge rusts, your knife is trash.
My suggestion is to save a little more money and buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK2-Campanion-Fixed/dp/B001N1DPDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1282326174&sr=8-1
It's made in the USA, has 1095 steel (a carbon steel, much better than 1055). It's got a 5.5'' blade, so if you want a bigger knife this one definitely fits that category. It also has a nice shape for a variety of tasks. That spear point knife you linked to designed for stabbing. A knife like this in a drop point shape is designed for slicing. Spend the extra $30 and get a nice knife.
Be warned that if you buy any carbon steel knife you need to buy some mineral oil and coat the whole blade with a very very light coating of oil. If you don't, it's likely to rust. Carbon steel requires more maintenance than stainless steel. That "rust proof coating" is really more for show than anything else.
When i first got my kukri machete, there was a sticker on it, which i promptly removed. there was some adhesive left behind that i thought i could wipe off with some acetone. Since many knives had a ceramic/blue oxide layer to prevent corrosion, i had assumed this knife was the same.
The acetone took the paint off.
In addition, you must remember that there will be no coating on the edge, since you have to sharpen it, and therefore scrape it off pretty much the first time you sharpen. Mineral oil is a good choice, as it is cheap and food-safe. Only a wipe with an oily rag is good enough. no need to drown it in the stuff
actually, utility knives aint that bad as an EDC blade. they may not look stylish, but they work, and are semi disposable.
speaking of which, this is pretty cool:
this is great ... assthetically pleasing, but the blades arent extendable ... which means you wont be able to slice with it.
Are there stainless steel blades for utility knives ??
is what i meant.
Goddamn I keep clicking edit when I want to quote :facepalm:
Anyway it's not extendable, the sexy hand model is removing the disposable blade.
yeah, though boxcutters and utility knives do have different blades.
the utility balisong will have a blade like this guy:
rather than snapping of each section of blade like a box cutter, the blade is reversible (its shaped like a trapezium)
I've done the clicking edit thing too when I click too fast. I really don't want to fuck up and edit someone's post that way.
My bad on the extension thing. Looked like the blade extended a couple notches. Oh well.
This knife is fixed blade, concealable, and designed to cut through flesh and bone without losing grip