My 1978 Mustang II restoration project

TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
edited August 2015 in Man Cave
I haven't done too much recently, and I have added notes to a few things to update them.

Sorry this is a bit messy and not formatted too well, I'm not too good at it.

For the past six years, I've been restoring a 1978 Ford Mustang II
carapr002.jpg

Engine:
So far, the engine has been rebuilt, It is a Ford 2.3 Bored at least .20 over, and as far as .60 over (can't get a straight answer from the machine shop, or the installer, and there are complicated circumstances surrounding the motor) I've installed a Holley 4160 Carburetor with 14" offset Summit Racing air cleaner and reusable filter, Offenhauser 4bbl intake, upgraded to a ranger roller cam, MSD ignition coil, added a Hedman Hedder, done the exhaust (2 1/4", with Flowtech Warlock muffler) (though after three New England winters it needs to be done again)
Update Jan 2014: Muffler pictured below was installed May 2010 and the exhaust was replaced in aug 2011, while retaining the same muffler]

Update Aug 2015Current engine specs are as follows: ford 2.3, block bored .050 or 060 over, Holley 390CFM carb, Offenhauser dual port 4bbl intake, Boport stage 1.5 cam (no exact duration specs available but it is .436 lift, rpm range 3000 to 6500+) iron head with "big" 1.89" intake and 1.59 exhaust valves with double springs and a little smoothing done in the runners as well as unshrouding the valves. Exhaust ports are bored out from the bottom up to 1 5/16" . The header is from Speedway motors and has 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" stepped primaries into a 3" collector that is reduced down to 2 1/2" all the way to the muffler.



Ignition is an MSD 40th anniversary 6AL box with 7000RPM rev limit, with Pro Billet distributor set at 18* initial and 36* total. Light blue advance springs for all timing in by 3000 RPM. Spark plug gap is set at .040.



It also has a few Esslinger goodies: Adjustable cam gear, Heavy duty timing belt tensioner, billet steel intermediate shaft, and bronze distributor gear. It has a newer radiator and master cylinder, along with most of the brake lines replaced.
I have one of the chrome Ford Racing valve covers on it.

I plan on adding an MSD box at some point, but I cant have it all right now.
[Update Jan 2012: I purchased a MSD 6AL box in July 2011 but have not installed it yet]

carapr004.jpgcar022.jpg
I have a ported head with big valves to go on as a side project as the price I got was too good to pass up. All it needs is a camHead001.jpgHead004.jpg
[Update Jan 2012: Back from machine shop Jan 2011; details in thread. Still not installed]
I've got a new Warlock ready to go on freshly painted with high heat copper paint to try to keep it from rusting as fast.
carparts002.jpgcarparts003.jpg
Interior:
I'm keeping the interior pretty much stock except for a decent sound system and a set of Summit oil pressure and water temp gauges. I plan on changing the head unit at some point to a stock appearing in dash unit as the current system has a dead CD player and no MP3 connectivity, along with me wanting to mount the mint vintage emergency scanner I picked up at a yard sale in its place.
car010.jpgcar011.jpgcar012.jpgcar013.jpg
[Update Jan 2012: I installed a Cobra CB radio in July 2011. I am still running the bad head unit. The emergency scanner currently resides in the glovebox]
Body:
The body is in pretty poor shape, with large holes in the quarter panels, and lots of rust poking through in various areas, including a couple spots in the floorboards around the outer drivers and passenger side seat mount holes, and one on the passenger side up near the firewall. I have a new floorboard panel for the drivers side, but haven't ordered one for the passenger side yet.
I was also lucky enough to get my hands on an NOS quarter panel for the passenger side, but have had no luck on the drivers side.
A few detailed (but dated) pics here. The body is much worse now.
http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k113/Mark_Taylor87/Car%20Pictures/Tech/Body/
The rear bumper was trashed from an accident, but I was able to get another bumper from a friend of mine so I painted it and installed it
109_1885.jpgPicture008.jpg
[Update Jan 2012: I have floorpans For the drivers side and passenger side. The drivers side was done in mid 2011 sometime, but the passenger side still needs to be done.]
Chassis and Suspension:
The rear suspension has been replaced. New shocks, leaf springs and shackles, However the rear bumper mounts are rotting away and I haven't been able to track down a set yet.
The front end is in poor shape, but I've ordered new upper and lower arms, tie rod ends, bushings, springs and spring cushions, and sway bar end links from Speedway Motors. I got part of the shipment, but some of the parts were out of stock, so I'm still currently waiting on them carparts001.jpg
[Update Jan 2012: The front suspension has been installed after the catastrophic failure of a suspension arm (details below) in Aug 2011.]
Wheels and Tires
I Have American racing Outlaw II Wheels in the back with Cooper Cobra GT tires in 195/60R14. The fronts are still my snow tires and they are 185/70R14s and are really ugly. I have another pair of the Outlaw wheels I plan on wrapping in 225/60R14s and putting on the rear while swapping the 195s to the front.
[Update Jan 2012: The car currently has Cooper Cobras in 235/60R14 in the rear, and 195/70R14s in the front as shown below.

That's about it for now, but I will try to update this thread as I go along (slowly), and I will try to update this first post with any significant changes when needed.

(previous most recent post)
The new muffler has been installed, and I got my new tires and wheels on. I just fixed (hopefully) an issue with my taillight harness, and I'm currently trying to figure out a coolant consumption problem. If it turns out to be the headgasket, the ported head may be going on sooner then I thought. I guess its off to the machine shop to get the head checked and cleaned sometime in the next week or so, along with ordering the cam and roller followers.
I also ordered a few pairs of Holley jets so I can try to do a little more carburetor tuning at some point. The upper suspension arms came the other day and all I need is the sway bar end links, the springs, and the shocks. I'm going to paint the suspension arms with rustoleum of an undetermined color (probably black) so they don't rust out.

(current/new content)
I've spent a about a year and a half trying different timing settings, different jetting, and different secondary springs. I finally found that 15* inital timing (with the weights flipped in the dizzy weights to the 10R slot :thumbsup:) the Stock (6299-1) #50 jets and the plain secondary spring seem to run the best for my current setup. The coolant consumption issue was a heater hose that was a little loose and was leaking when the engine was hot.

Other then that, I REALLY need to get the body work done, and eventually the head swap. The only thing really holding me up is money and the time to get things done right.
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Comments

  • muffinsmuffins Regular
    edited July 2010
    Sounds like itll be a great car man. When you change the head you will be ble to read the oversize on the pistons. is it a 450 cfm 4160?
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited July 2010
    Thanks, its a blast to drive!!!
    Also, its a 390 CFM carburetor. Its one of the old 6299-1 models from the early 80s, and it had never been opened.
  • muffinsmuffins Regular
    edited July 2010
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited September 2010
    Update: I still haven't gotten to the front suspension. I got the drivers side floorpan replaced (not pretty but its much safer that the holes around the seat mounts and under the pedals), and I got a good set of bumper mounts, which will be hopefully replaced soon. I've just been taking it to shows and not doing too much work on it other then changing an intake manifold gasket that was leaking water into the no. 3 cylinder. The taillight harness seems to have a couple of bad sockets and I will probably just get a couple new replacements and wire them in instead of continuing to muck around with corroded and crumbling sockets. I still need to call the machine shop about getting the head checked also.
    Hopefully I will get to doing the sockets, the bumper/leaf spring mounts, and getting the head checked this upcoming week, and hopefully I can get the passenger side floorpan done before first snowfall.
    A pic from a recent car show I went to:
    [img]http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k113/Mark_Taylor87/2010 Car Shows/2010%20Ford%20Power%20Show%20Mustangs%20Unlimited/MustangsUnlimitedPowerShow001.jpg[/img]
    I've been trying to put away more money towards getting the rear quarter panels done, but with bills and what not its been difficult to put much aside.
  • Professor ElmProfessor Elm Regular
    edited September 2010
    Awesome car man, gonna look bangin' when finished, good job so far.
    "I managed almost 1/4 of a spin. Then again I'm sitting on my bed" - Vizier
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited September 2010
    Thanks, its been a lot of work to get it to the state you see it in.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited November 2010
    The rear bumper mounts have been replaced. My rear bumper was literally falling off on the drivers side before I fixed it.
    Also, I got a cam for it. Hopefully I'll have it installed along with the head by the springtime.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited November 2010
    I dropped the head off at the machine shop to get checked and cleaned. I'm going to have them install the cam as well, then call up a buddy to help me swap the head over. I also have one of the hard to find chrome Ford Racing valve covers I'm going to put on as well.
  • edited November 2010
    This looks awesome, I hope you manage to get it fully restored bro. I love cars :D
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited January 2011
    ^^Thanks.

    I just got the head back from the machine shop. It ended up needing more work than I expected, and they were backlogged with several other projects, and I told them I wasn't in any real hurry, so it took them a decent amount of time. Anyway, 1+ months later
    cdvsd002.jpg
    cdvsd001.jpg
    cdvsd003.jpg
    The head was checked for cracks, cleaned, surfaced, valve job, new valve seals, and the new cam was installed, along with new roller followers. The projected swap date is still springtime, but there's a chance it could be a bit sooner. Peak time at work is over, and I have a bit more time to think about my self for a while. I still have a few things to take care of, but its too cold to do any serious work right now other than planning and stocking up on parts.
  • dr rockerdr rocker Regular
    edited January 2011
    The faces on the head look much better - looking at the picture as it is tho, do you think the waterways could do with a little sharpening up? I dont know much about american engines (bar the buick 215 -307 / Rover 3.5L), but from everything I have worked on the waterways can allways do with a little opening up around the face.

    Well, as the head has been surfcaced now, it would be false economy to start grinding away at it again.

    Also, I would get on with the body as fast as you can - its the thing that is going to fall to bits the quickest and it allways seems to be the thing that stops most projects.

    You welding yourself? If you are paying labour for welding, its going to cost a bit. If you 'cant weld' just get a decent MIG and have a go. Having no choice but to weld myself taught me to weld. I really enjoy it - unlike woodwork, you can take too much material off as you can allways put it back.

    Oh, and props to you. Too many people let good cars die.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited August 2015
    ^^ I've never heard or read anything about enlarging water passages. All I've read about is intake and exhaust porting. She runs cold as it is and it would probably not be a good idea to increase the cooling capacity any more than it already is.
    Anyway, shes rusting pretty bad from being a 4 season daily driver, but every spring as soon as its warm enough I do a bit of bodywork to fix (hide) all the rust spots. It sucks doing it every year, but that's the price of not having access to good quality paint and supplies, along with being really bad at doing bodywork that can stand up to the elements, although my rear bumper is the best work I've done as it has stood up to 4 winters so far.
    I have pretty much all the parts I need to do some serious work (as listed+ more), but I'm really burnt out from my job, and I just don't have the drive to fix her the way she deserves. I hope that the upcoming warm weather of spring and summer gives me the extra oomph I need to get some long overdue work done as there is a major Mustang II Roundup due to happen this summer. Its a considerable distance away from me, but I hope to have her ready. Its 6 months away, but with the weather, realistically I have maybe 3 at best. There's lots of work to do, and very little time to do it. The transmission has developed a bit of a leak and I bought a rebuild kit for it, although its still going strong and would bet on the engine going again before it blows.
    I've been beating on it a bit, and I can't resist an empty parking lot with fresh fallen snow in it 66xi5c.jpg
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited August 2015
    Not much to update, but Its still running and all. It seems to have more or less survived the winter with a few more rot spots. So far all I;ve really done is collect parts and save every dollar I can for the body. I did pick up one of the 40th anniversary MSD ignition boxes with the vintage logo and its sitting with the other piles of parts that are waiting to be installed.
    The projected timeline on the body is this winter as I want to get one more show season out of it. I did some research a while back and I found that I mounted the carburetor 90* off from how it was intended to be mounted on this intake. After changing it to the intended position (sideways, with the primary fuel bowl towards the valve cover) I have picked up a bit of low end torque (if a four cylinder can be considered "torquey") and I can spin the 235/60R14s and kick out sideways When I get on it from a dead stop. This year, I had her pretty much at top speed for my setup. According to my buddies GPS phone app thing I was going about 123 MPH (showing 115 on the speedo) with just a little bit more to go if I dared to push it (I know, nothing special by today's standards) and with 30+ year old front suspension arms that flake when you tap on them with a wrench, blown out ball joints, and manual steering with a loose rubber steering rag joint (about 30 degrees of play in the steering wheel) not to mention the front end seemed to be lifting about 6-7 inches higher than the stock ride height and hearing my straight piped exhaust screaming at 5400 RPM it was the biggest rush I've ever had just keeping it going straight down the road. It was like the car weighed no more than a couple pounds. Trust me, its nothing like a modern car that drives the same at 120 as it does at 60. I wonder what it'll be like when I put the head on it.

    I also picked up a Vintage 1977 Cobra CB radio. It was new in the box, and I just got it mounted up under my dash the other day. It is essentially a brand new radio. I just need to wire it in and get an antenna for it. CBradio002.jpg
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited September 2011
    Update: I had a suspension arm break on me, so it was time to get the new front suspension installed. The car now handles much better. not much else to report other than an oil change. car003.jpg
  • dr rockerdr rocker Regular
    edited September 2011
    Clean all the rust from the suspension mount - it just looks like it could be surface rust with a bit of pitting at the moment, clean it all off, rust inhibiter, prime and paint. It does not need to be a good looking job, but it would save you having to have a new one welded on in a year or two. Lining up a new mount would be a whole world of fuck on in itself and you would still have to prime and paint a new one!
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited October 2011
    I have bodywork and some sheet metal repair scheduled for over the winter. I'll add that issue to the list. Due to be extremely busy and being sick of trying to do the work myself (paint keeps peeling and the body keeps rusting despite doing my best with the prep work on the bad spots) I am going to hire a shop to do the major sheet metal repair and body work as I can't seem to get satisfactory results by myself.

    Anyway, still trying to find someone with a leakdown tester as I'm still loosing lots of coolant. I have good compression, 175 PSI across the board while hot or cold so no I'm assuming no cracks in the head or block. The oil level is also staying the same so I'm sure its not going into the crank case. all hoses are nice and tight so no leaks there. I'm hoping a leakdown test will tell me something.
  • SpinsterSpinster Regular
    edited October 2011
    Is your coolent leaking out rapidly, or over a long period of time?

    btw underseal is very forgiving lol
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited October 2011
    Well, its disappearing at about an inch or two a month. I've gone through about a gallon this summer.
  • SpinsterSpinster Regular
    edited October 2011
    idk, not the proper fix but you might win with some iron tight or seal up. my car had a blown head gasket. it was ever the most smallest leak, wasnt over heating or loseing water. but I threw in some seal up and it fixed it, been a month and its still algood because I caught it in time.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited October 2011
    I don't know, I really don't want to try that stuff on a car I plan on keeping for the long haul. I don't really trust the stuff, and besides, I've been beating the snot out of it with no real issues. Over the summer I was shifting at 6700 RPM at least once a day (even though the power drops off at about 4800), and she usually sees 5000 rpm more than a few times a day. If I had any weak spots, they would be gone by now I would think.
  • PsychlonicPsychlonic Regular
    edited November 2011
    I saw one of these in the town I live just outside of today and thought of this topic. It was sky blue with a white vinyl top and looked like it had just been sitting out in the elements. Though surprisingly, and maybe I just wasn't up close enough to see better, but I didn't see any rusting really and the vinyl wasn't cracked all to hell. That said, it was still clear it wasn't really being worked on much looking at the little details. These had to be the least popular Mustangs so I wonder if the owner is even going to bother. It's sort of a shame though because it's pretty badass to have an unpopular classic that's really nice because everyone wants to know what it is. I was also surprised by how small it was. Not really my style but I liked the fastback versions.
    Dead is the man who does not constantly strive to improve himself.
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  • Darth BeaverDarth Beaver Meine Ehre heißt Treue
    edited November 2011
    Off Topic: Is that a dead frog under your car? LOL

    car003.jpg
    I won't stand for people who are intolerant of racism, bullying, religious intolerance, sexism, homophobia, ableism, or any other form of discrimination.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited November 2011
    ^^ lol, no its a just couple of sticks next to a dead leaf. I checked the original. Nothing to really update other than bodywork time is getting closer.
  • Darth BeaverDarth Beaver Meine Ehre heißt Treue
    edited November 2011
    OK I can see that now but can you see how it kind of looks like an old dried up dead frog?
    I won't stand for people who are intolerant of racism, bullying, religious intolerance, sexism, homophobia, ableism, or any other form of discrimination.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited November 2011
    I agree, it did take me a second after looking at it, hence the reason I checked the original :hai:
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited December 2011
    Update: I sheared a dizzy gear sometime in mid September, and it just sheared another one. It turned out that the previous replacement was one size too small and it worked itself halfway out and sheared out. I drilled the gear and shaft up to 5/32, and installed a new roll pin. I'm back to running nice and smooth, but I'm due for another oil change. I've got my eye on a shiny new MSD dizzy though :D I'm still hoping to get her in for bodywork this year, but I still need something to drive while its in the shop.

    Also picked up some more sheet metal and a set of subframe connectors.
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited December 2011
    If you want to get that bodywork done this year, you have set yourself quite a task seeing as it's December the 31st today LOL
    Lead me to the rock that is higher than I
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited December 2011
    Touche, (Peak time @ work really takes the time away) Well, I really mean as in within a year :p But Its still planned for this SEASON :D
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited December 2011
    Sorry to be pedantic, but it did make me giggle. Btw, for the benefit of a complete dunderhead, what is a "dizzy" gear?
    Lead me to the rock that is higher than I
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited December 2011
    A distributor gear. The the gear that goes on the shaft of the distributor. Its more fun to call it that, and faster than saying or typing the word distributor.
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited December 2011
    Ahh thanks for that, the only reference I could find on google was to some war game.
    Lead me to the rock that is higher than I
  • JackedJacked Regular
    edited January 2012
    hey mate, car looks clean as fuck, i cant complain on anything on the outside of the stang.... but i cannot stand the interior. im a ford guy myself ( 77 ford xc 4 door) so i know what u mean by original but that dashboard is one ugly mother inlaw! checkout what the aussies are doing with their dashboards. good luck mate!
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited January 2012
    ^^ Thanks!!! There's a gentleman around here that owns a RHD XB 2 door built into a Mad Max clone. Its one of my favourite local cars!! I know the interior is a bit different, but I've gotten used to it (this is my daily driver and my only car). As the interior is in great shape, its at the bottom of my list for any restoration work as the body is falling apart and it desperately needs work.
    Incidentally, my transportation problems have been solved so she may be going in for the body work as early as Tuesday of this week!! I plan on spending the next couple days getting her ready to go and getting all the sheet metal and body parts together!!! I have a really busy 2 days ahead of me!!!
  • JackedJacked Regular
    edited January 2012
    Hey mate how'd it all work out?

    IMO I rekon ur dash needs a good spray with some plastic/vinyl spray can in black. Would look slick as hell with a black dash. I'm picking up my freshly built 9 inch LSD diff with new 3.9 gears, so I'm one step closer to getting it on the road!
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited August 2015
    Well, I got the interior stripped out,
    2nhezoj.jpg
    along with getting the chrome trim removed. Drilling out the screws holding the wheelwell mouldings
    2ci6v77.jpg
    on was the worst of it. It took us almost 2 hours to drill out the 16 rusty screws out to remove it.

    As planned, on that following Tuesday, I drove it out to the restoration shop, and dropped her off. I'm not used to driving a newer car, and I really miss the II, but I'm still excited to see what she looks like when I get her back.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited April 2012
  • Darth BeaverDarth Beaver Meine Ehre heißt Treue
    edited April 2012
    Wow, you are really tearing it down there.
    I won't stand for people who are intolerant of racism, bullying, religious intolerance, sexism, homophobia, ableism, or any other form of discrimination.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited April 2012
    New floor pans, quarter panels, and a set of subframe connectors are being installed.
  • Darth BeaverDarth Beaver Meine Ehre heißt Treue
    edited April 2012
    Damn you are really doing a from the ground up job on it there bro.
    I won't stand for people who are intolerant of racism, bullying, religious intolerance, sexism, homophobia, ableism, or any other form of discrimination.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited April 2012
    The interior is mostly back together, and I will be attending my first show of the year on Sunday.
    2i8dp3a.jpg
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    2ikabu9.jpg
  • Darth BeaverDarth Beaver Meine Ehre heißt Treue
    edited April 2012
    Holy shit you got a lot done in just 4 days.
    I won't stand for people who are intolerant of racism, bullying, religious intolerance, sexism, homophobia, ableism, or any other form of discrimination.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited April 2012
    I had a shop doing the repairs as it needed some serious work that was well beyond our capabilities, but we're going to finish the bodywork and paint it ourselves. I had been hoping to be farther along but I've had some setbacks and finishing the bodywork is not a top priority right now.
  • Darth BeaverDarth Beaver Meine Ehre heißt Treue
    edited April 2012
    I any event the project seems to be progressing very well.
    I won't stand for people who are intolerant of racism, bullying, religious intolerance, sexism, homophobia, ableism, or any other form of discrimination.
  • DfgDfg Admin
    edited May 2012
    I must say after going through all the updates and reading the reports, I am impressed. I couldn't do this myself, so I honestly envy your hard work. Fantastic job. Would love to learn things from you.
    Disclaimer: I am writer and I love writing fucked up things, I am not responsible if those fucked up things are accurate or get used for illegal purposes. Please, do not bother me."

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  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited May 2012
    Thanks guys, I try to do my own work, but as it is/was/still kinda is a daily driver, I needed to have some things done professionally.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited May 2012
    I got my tucked bumpers about a week ago, and I did a quick test fit last weekend to see what I need to modify to get them to fit properly. I still need to get some 2" angle iron to use as a support as the bumpers are made of fiberglass.

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  • bornkillerbornkiller Administrator In your girlfriends snatch
    edited May 2012
    I've never been a fan of this shape mustang but always been a fan of the 2.3. I've had a 2.3 in a ford escort mkI 2dr (stock), Mk3 Cortina (AM cam and 2bbl holley) and a ford granada (AM cam, dual 48s +other shit)
    All the work and effort you've put into the engine gave me a boner. <3 that roller cam.
    If you're still around could you post the lift & duration for the cam?
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited June 2012
    Well, I haven't actually swapped the head yet. The engine is still running strong, and I'm putting some time into other things that need more attention than the engine does. The new head has a Boport 1.5 cam installed in it. The only information I have is that the cam is .436 lift, and that it is for 3000-6000+ RPM. No specs on duration or any of that are available. The cam that's currently in it is just the stock ford roller cam made for the 91-93 mustang and the 89-94 ranger.
  • TheGreenDoctorTheGreenDoctor Regular
    edited August 2012
    I finally replaced my broken windshield wiper/turn signal stalk (washer spray button broke) today. Simple enough on its own, but when I went up under the dash to unplug the harness I found some shoddy work from one of the previous owners. Someone tapped into the power wire for the windshield wipers to run acc power for the aftermarket radio,
    2urnqma.jpg
    and had done some other D class splicing on the under dash harness. I spent the afternoon cleaning everything up, and moved the acc power wire to the old radio feed. While I had my dash apart, I finally wired in my CB radio, then tucked everything up nicely to where it will no longer hit my feet while driving.

    Every time I go to do a simple job, I always seem to find several other problems that need to be fixed before I can continue.
  • bornkillerbornkiller Administrator In your girlfriends snatch
    edited August 2012
    I hate it when people do that shit. I did some work on an early 300zx that had a cunt of a miss in it. (Bogged down on load at the start.) It ended up ended up a big pain in the ass so I sent it to an auto electrician. It turned out someone had hooked the stereos power wire to part of the computer loom. It was drawing power.
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