Wooster Bosh problem

chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
edited November 2011 in Tech & Games
My central heating is out of it's guarantee period and the controller had developed a problem. It's the DT10RF controller. It keeps losing the radio signal. For over a year the display has been showing 4 bars for a good signal but a week or so ago I noticed it has dropped to 2 bars which means poor signal. It keeps dropping connection. I've changed the batteries a couple of times to no avail. I moved it from the lounge to the hallway which cured it for a couple of days, then had to move it to the kitchen where the boiler is. Now the signal has become weak in there too. I don't want to buy a replacement as they are about £150 if it's only going to last a year or so. Any suggestions for a remedy?

I've googled the problem but all I can find is other people complaining of the same problem and no solutions.

Comments

  • juggjugg Regular
    edited November 2011
    can you just hard wire the thermostat, and get rid of the wireless one ? If you can link the model numbers on your equipment and controller I will look into it for you and see if i can help
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited November 2011
    I replaced the hard wired one because this gives more control as in eco settings etc. I could go back to the hard wired if all else fails.
  • juggjugg Regular
    edited November 2011
    That's what I would do. It might be another signal over running your thermostat. I once wired a house in all wireless switches, and when they guys router wts just a bunch of on and off switches.
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited November 2011
    I wondered about interference, but the distance it works over according to the signal strength gets less each day as if something is giving up the ghost.
  • juggjugg Regular
    edited November 2011
    It just may be taking a shit. What kind of signal does it put out.


    by the way this is why I never suggest wireless t-stats etc....
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited November 2011
    Radio.

    Yeah I was advised against it, but I thought wtf does a sparkie know.
  • juggjugg Regular
    edited November 2011
    Have you added any new cord less phones or computer equipment wireless routers etc.....
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited November 2011
    Nope, nothing.
  • juggjugg Regular
    edited November 2011
    Is this your t-stat?

    http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/PDF/Worcester_Bosch/DT-10-RF-digistat-mk-1-instruction-manual.pdf


    L
    et me know because I dont want to research the wrong thing. I did find replacement parts for the t-stat, but I noticed something about the batteries.

    It says that this t-stat came with a LR6 batteries





    IEC name
    R6
    LR6
    FR6
    KR6
    HR6
    ?


    ANSI/NEDA name
    15D
    15A
    15LF
    1.2K2
    1.2H2
    ?


    Capacity under 500mA constant drain
    400-1000 mAh
    1800-2600 mAh
    2700-3400 mAh
    600– 1000 mAh
    2200–2900 mAh
    1500-1800 mAh


    Nominal voltage
    1.50 V
    1.50 V
    1.50 V
    1.25 V
    1.25 V
    1.65 V


    Rechargeable
    No
    No
    No[4]
    Yes
    Yes
    Yes






    If you look at the chart bellow the lr6 batteries have a Capacity under 500mA constant drain of 1800-2600 mah

    which could mean if you put a battery which doesn't match the Capacity under 500mA constant drain it might not be able to keep up with the constant drain and it may make the signal grow weaker with the battery drain. I may be way off, but for the price of getting new doubble a batteries its worth a shot

    *edit*
    It does say in the service guide to make sure the batteries are the correct type..Which is the LR6
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited November 2011
    Yeah it's the optimising one. And I think the drain is way less than that on the batteries. they are supposed to last 2 years.
  • juggjugg Regular
    edited November 2011
    If its not the LR6 it wont be able to put out enough juice. If you have a r6 in there it could be your problem It says twice in the instructions
    Should the existing unit fail to function correctly check:


    1. receiver times and program settings are correct


    2. trzansmitter batteries are the correct type and correctly fitted.



    You cant expect to put a lawn mower battery in a car and expect it to run. There is a reason why they used the lr6 and not the r6. The t-stat probably needs the power that the lr6 can constantly produce. If you put a battery that doesn't have enough output it may be your problem.
  • chippychippy <b style="color:pink;">Global Moderator</b>
    edited November 2011
    They are 2700mAh batteries I am using. I don't think it's the batteries as the low battery indicator doesnt come on.
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