Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story

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  • edited June 2016
    start of Second page.

    Ok funny story kinda related.

    So I was at the pharmacy today and someone is getting served in front of me.

    I don't normally listern in to conversations but I heard pseudoephedrine and my ears pricked up.
    So I start listerning a bit closer and the pharmacists is telling the guy that he is not selling him anymore pseudoephedrine because he doesn't know what his doing with it. But he will sell him the none PSE version "pe".
    I start thinking to myself I know what his doing with all that PSE... Reading this thread...

    haha I followed the guy out and pointed him to where the next closest pharmacy is.

    Not so funny part about this story...
    Australia's anti drug laws are so tight that we can only buy half gram boxes of PSE and only buy two at a time...
    We also have a monthly limit which I think is about 3 or 4 grams.
    Get off your high horse you fuckwits.
    The drug war clearly isn't working as they are finding more and more drug labs every year it is clearly not working.
    Stop wasting tax payers money on something you will never be able to stop or eradicate...
    There will always be people out there who is willing to break a rule or two to get where they want...
    But stop the drug war and there will be less "gangsters" shooting themselves and others who get in the way.
    Just over a drug corner.
    Because you will be able to get it in a safe shop like place.

    There will be more room in our prisons for people who actually deserve to be there.

    There will be more money spent on our actual country and not locking people up for selling people what they want. We aren't forcing anyone to do anything.
    They are just selling them what they want.
    Its like weed vs alcohol... Alcohol and ciggerettes are worse for you than weed but yes the government still sells these...
    Why you ask?
    Two reasons
    Because they had a drug war against alcohol and it didn't work...
    And money... Taxes so they can start a drug war that no body apart from people with a broom stuck up there ass beleaves in.
    news flash if people want to do something there going to do it whether its dirty street gear or stuff made in a proper lab.

    Stop wasting our money on a war that's not working and put it into somewhere more deserved.

    I'm here to help people with harm reduction techniques. So they don't read from some moron some where that using water instead of solvent works great...
  • edited June 2016
    Just want to let everyone who is reading this know that this guy knows what he's talking about. I hypothetically made some bomb shit the second time, even though I made some grievous errors post cook. Make sure you get that ph between 6 and 7 people. Meth isn't a drug otherwise. You cant get high off it, and it won't turn into crystals.

    Also the hotplate in his story isn't optional, it's compulsory. Make sure you get that shit or you will be waiting years until the water evaporates

    He is still helping me out via pm's. Enso is a gentleman and a scholar. Before I found enso's story, I was actually gonna hypothetically do another recipe I saw online that was very dangerous compared to this one (the RV was a 1 liter soda bottle) and asks for copious amounts of water so I would've probably lost a appendage or two.

    Speaking of water, I did have to add a cap full of water to jumpstart the reaction when I first added all the ingredients. For all of my cooks. I'm not the expert here, so I'll defer to enso on whether or not that's a sound technique.
  • And sorry to be a negative nancy but the drug war will never end... Children are indoctrinated at a young age to fear and hate drugs. Instead of learning about them and the mechanism of overdose for each individual drug (which would save so many lives) they are taught that drugs are evil, and to stay away. Which becomes to many, a forbidden fruit. The more you tell someone not to do something the more likely they are to do it.

    Thus creates the schism, between the powerless drug user and the powerful anti-drug puppeteers - dangling the common folk from their strings of injustice and hypocrisy.
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Just want to let everyone who is reading this know that this guy knows what he's talking about. I hypothetically made some bomb shit the second time, even though I made some grievous errors post cook. Make sure you get that ph between 6 and 7 people. Meth isn't a drug otherwise. You cant get high off it, and it won't turn into crystals.

    Also the hotplate in his story isn't optional, it's compulsory. Make sure you get that shit or you will be waiting years until the water evaporates

    He is still helping me out via pm's. Enso is a gentleman and a scholar. Before I found enso's story, I was actually gonna hypothetically do another recipe I saw online that was very dangerous compared to this one (the RV was a 1 liter soda bottle) and asks for copious amounts of water so I would've probably lost a appendage or two.

    Speaking of water, I did have to add a cap full of water to jumpstart the reaction when I first added all the ingredients. For all of my cooks. I'm not the expert here, so I'll defer to enso on whether or not that's a sound technique.

    Thanks man. After all I am here to help.
    As I told you earlier I never had someone to help me when I started my quest I had to learn from problem solving trail and error and things I previously knew... I wish I had someone to ask...
    I didn't actually start my uni study of organic Chem till after I stopped reacting.
    But I found I already knew a lot of the techniques from previous experience from synthesizing mda/mdma meth ect.

    Ok so only a tiny cap of water is used if and only if the reaction hasn't started after a couple of minutes.
    If you have a hair dryer you may be able to get around this by warming the vessel enough.
    But yes if needed if the reaction won't seem to kick off add a tiny and I mean tiny cap of water... The less water the better.
    (Thanks man tried editing op but for some reason the edit button has dissapeard.

    Also about the other teks you were thinking about trying... As I said I had to do a lot of trial an error before getting to the point to this tek... I always knew adding that much water wasn't a good idea though I learnt in highschool that if lithium makes contact with water it will catch fire...
    Did your science teacher ever put a strip of lithium in a bucket of water to show you what happens?
    Its pretty... Just catches fire on top of the water... Something you wouldn't normally get to see...
    as I said in my last post I am about harm reduction and showing that if done right this isnt that dangerous and that the government is just using scare tactics to scare you from making your own...
  • Ok so this bee I was talking about wrote another story this time everything went to plan and had nothing happen bad and the product was said to be "the meth that they know and love"
    And that's without any cleaning of the final product.
    If anything This is proof of the concept...
    This proves that if done properly this method does stand up to any other method...
    This proves that its not as dangerous as everyone makes out...
    This person is clearly still ok and didn't blow up automaticly as they messaged me telling me about there story.
  • Just an update on my progress...

    I recently hypothetically made the best meth I have ever done. I use intravenously, and the rush I received was out of this world. I would like to say yet again, that enso knows his shit and that Shake & Bake is a force to be reckoned with. I'm not sure what was different from this cook to the prior ones, but this was certainly the best I ever made/had. I have been high for almost an entire week just re-rinsing the same quart sized Ziploc baggie full of dope.

    So don't just read his story, hypothetically TRY IT. You will not regret it. It is easy as shit and only takes about 2-3 hours. Just make sure not to improvise the process or ingredients listed and do the instructions down to the letter.
  • Yo enso this is MrHappy from RDFRN and I just wanted to post this revolutionary advancement in the field of shake and bake chemistry. Also I wanted to say there is a forum like zoklet called www.niggasin.space you should check it out, it's pretty active but needs more good posters.

    Play with this-

    2 oz Am. Nitrate

    2 oz Sodium Hydroxide/Lye

    At least a 20 oz preferablly clear pop bottle or the next size up.

    1 cup to cup and a half camp fuel.. filtered through quite a few papers/shop towels etc.


    Add all of the above then add 1 AA strip Per 2 Boxes of 2400 mg. or half strip for 1 box..

    leave the PSE out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Shake her up if its not audibly or visually starting to make gas well.

    Leave the lid cracked for a few minutes at a time then shut and shake untill it starts to build press.

    Slowly burp. hiss and quickly a few times. keep an eye on it. for when it really starts to go.



    Dont shake it at all after the gas starts to go .. nope. your done shaking it for now unless it is having a hard time starting to make the gas. If so shake and pressurise release etc. untill its starting to come to life/ pressurize basically at an ok rate then quit the shaking untill later.

    Let it pressurize up and tend to it, let it out slowly now and then too keep it within a workable pressure it will after 25/45 minutes be making the bronze that you want and lots of it.

    When3/4 to 7/8 or all of the strip has turned to the red/ lion bronze etc. puddle-

    Slowly release the pressure to get the cap off.. dont fuck around and get the funnel on it.

    Slowly sprinkle the fine ground gups into and on top of the bronze, dont take all day. but dont just plop the whole powder load right down on top of it either.

    The PSE is in. Lid on .Shake quickly for 10 seconds or so and let the precursers settle/ be watching for any Lith. thats down in the granule layer. Circular swing/twist the bottle to get a whilrpool in there to get the lith floating and up out of the granular layer after each shake. Keep the lith out of that bottom.

    Shake and vent like before trying to keep at least a little pressure on the thing. Shake vent etc. the bronze will be used up and it will go grey, blue, sometimes almost black- the solvent.

    Go nuts and shake the fucker.

    After about 15 to 20 minutes let it sit still after you shake it, watching the solvent ,that is now a healthy grey chocolate milk looking sob.Let it sit still for 3 to five minutes watching at the top of the solvent line for the solvent to clear up..

    It will clear up from the top down like the vertical hold on a TV. the farther you are along= the faster it will clear up.

    When you can watch it.. after a quick shake.. ----> clear up real quick, like under a minute and the grey 'lithium amide' comes to rest on top of the fert/lye layer.. its done

    Shake and vent like before trying to keep at least a little pressure on the thing. Shake vent etc. the bronze will be used up and it will go grey, blue, sometimes almost black- the solvent.

    Go nuts and shake the fucker.

    After about 15 to 20 minutes let it sit still after you shake it, watching the solvent ,that is now a healthy grey chocolate milk looking sob.Let it sit still for 3 to five minutes watching at the top of the solvent line for the solvent to clear up..

    It will clear up from the top down like the vertical hold on a TV. the farther you are along= the faster it will clear up.

    When you can watch it.. after a quick shake.. ----> clear up real quick, like under a minute and the grey 'lithium amide' comes to rest on top of the fert/lye layer..

    and with a real free flowing small paper towel plug in the neck or a cotton ball or two tip the bottle slowly trying to keep the media in the bottom of the bottle get the fluid/solvent to go down and with the bottle tilted get the solvent line above the whole cap.

    Carefully loosen the cap and feed the solvent out and around the cap while its tilted swiftly down through the funnel.

    This is a quick as possible rough filter, we want this done this is a dangerous step if there is any bronze floating in that pool of solvent in the funnel. Get it done quickly and pick your enviro wisely for this step, dont pull this on top of the washing machine with a can of camp fuel rubbing elbows with you or jars of solvent etc near any of this.

    Reasoning here.. if its extremely humid the floating bronze can get itchy and real pissed off firefly style when the solvent has run all through the funnel and its sitting there in the real h20 laden air.

    When the solvent has run through quickly twist up the 2 filters and wring them out very quickly over the funnel- just squeeze the fucker once and thats it, if there is bronze in them you will hear them hiss and groan. Drop the two filters into the reaction vessel then immediately. And cap it.

    Pull the cotton balls or plug from the neck and do the same.

    Get the RVessel the fuck outside or to a fire safe place. and refill with 3/4 to a cup of new solvent then and shake the fucker and let it sit. In a safe Place!!!

    Now Get yourself another vessel like the one you have your solvent in now and make sure its clean dry and at least luke warm or room temp.

    Pour the solvent from one vessel to the other 5 to 10 times.

    Check the smell of the solvent.

    The AA is completely gone yea?

    Yep...all gone.

    Clean the empty vessel thoroughly and dry and room temp or lukw warm it.

    Clean and dry the funnel well inside and out and fit it with one or two tightly packed cotton balls or a nice decent paper towel plug or both a plug and a cotton ball or two half ass tight on top of it and place two filters on top of these.

    Pre wet /pour a small amount of the same solvent you used / new stuff this time.. through the funnel and adjust the plug for a decent/ good filtration.

    Finish filter the solvent now.

    When its all filtered shove the filters and the plugs,cttnballs into the Reaction Vessel and recap immediately after its done filtering. This cuts the stinky factor down of the solvent in your enviro.. and keeps a handle on it.

    Gas the solvent.

    Put the gupps in after the bronze, this allows less precursers for the rxn, which means better yeild, less shit in there to trap the freebase Ma for it to cling get all mixed and mingled into.

    The rxn between the Amm Nitrate and Sodium Hydroxide runs alot better when the guppy pill mass isnt getting into the way in between the two.

    You get by with less Lithium to make the bronze because you arent shaking it and ramming it into the fert lye layer using up the bronze dicking around trying to make the gas to make the bronze etc. etc. You make the bronze with minimal Nh3 precursers and dont shake/waste any bronze.

    Any adulterant in the pill mass to counter act the rxn and or cripple the rxn betwen the two to get to or severely slow down the bronze endpoint is driven around.

    The Bronze is already made before the P. Mass gets in there. Giving them a big fuck you.


  • Yo enso this is MrHappy from RDFRN and I just wanted to post this revolutionary advancement in the field of shake and bake chemistry. Also I wanted to say there is a forum like zoklet called www.niggasin.space you should check it out, it's pretty active but needs more good posters.

    Play with this-

    2 oz Am. Nitrate

    2 oz Sodium Hydroxide/Lye

    At least a 20 oz preferablly clear pop bottle or the next size up.

    1 cup to cup and a half camp fuel.. filtered through quite a few papers/shop towels etc.


    Add all of the above then add 1 AA strip Per 2 Boxes of 2400 mg. or half strip for 1 box..

    leave the PSE out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Shake her up if its not audibly or visually starting to make gas well.

    Leave the lid cracked for a few minutes at a time then shut and shake untill it starts to build press.

    Slowly burp. hiss and quickly a few times. keep an eye on it. for when it really starts to go.



    Dont shake it at all after the gas starts to go .. nope. your done shaking it for now unless it is having a hard time starting to make the gas. If so shake and pressurise release etc. untill its starting to come to life/ pressurize basically at an ok rate then quit the shaking untill later.

    Let it pressurize up and tend to it, let it out slowly now and then too keep it within a workable pressure it will after 25/45 minutes be making the bronze that you want and lots of it.

    When3/4 to 7/8 or all of the strip has turned to the red/ lion bronze etc. puddle-

    Slowly release the pressure to get the cap off.. dont fuck around and get the funnel on it.

    Slowly sprinkle the fine ground gups into and on top of the bronze, dont take all day. but dont just plop the whole powder load right down on top of it either.

    The PSE is in. Lid on .Shake quickly for 10 seconds or so and let the precursers settle/ be watching for any Lith. thats down in the granule layer. Circular swing/twist the bottle to get a whilrpool in there to get the lith floating and up out of the granular layer after each shake. Keep the lith out of that bottom.

    Shake and vent like before trying to keep at least a little pressure on the thing. Shake vent etc. the bronze will be used up and it will go grey, blue, sometimes almost black- the solvent.

    Go nuts and shake the fucker.

    After about 15 to 20 minutes let it sit still after you shake it, watching the solvent ,that is now a healthy grey chocolate milk looking sob.Let it sit still for 3 to five minutes watching at the top of the solvent line for the solvent to clear up..

    It will clear up from the top down like the vertical hold on a TV. the farther you are along= the faster it will clear up.

    When you can watch it.. after a quick shake.. ----> clear up real quick, like under a minute and the grey 'lithium amide' comes to rest on top of the fert/lye layer.. its done

    Shake and vent like before trying to keep at least a little pressure on the thing. Shake vent etc. the bronze will be used up and it will go grey, blue, sometimes almost black- the solvent.

    Go nuts and shake the fucker.

    After about 15 to 20 minutes let it sit still after you shake it, watching the solvent ,that is now a healthy grey chocolate milk looking sob.Let it sit still for 3 to five minutes watching at the top of the solvent line for the solvent to clear up..

    It will clear up from the top down like the vertical hold on a TV. the farther you are along= the faster it will clear up.

    When you can watch it.. after a quick shake.. ----> clear up real quick, like under a minute and the grey 'lithium amide' comes to rest on top of the fert/lye layer..

    and with a real free flowing small paper towel plug in the neck or a cotton ball or two tip the bottle slowly trying to keep the media in the bottom of the bottle get the fluid/solvent to go down and with the bottle tilted get the solvent line above the whole cap.

    Carefully loosen the cap and feed the solvent out and around the cap while its tilted swiftly down through the funnel.

    This is a quick as possible rough filter, we want this done this is a dangerous step if there is any bronze floating in that pool of solvent in the funnel. Get it done quickly and pick your enviro wisely for this step, dont pull this on top of the washing machine with a can of camp fuel rubbing elbows with you or jars of solvent etc near any of this.

    Reasoning here.. if its extremely humid the floating bronze can get itchy and real pissed off firefly style when the solvent has run all through the funnel and its sitting there in the real h20 laden air.

    When the solvent has run through quickly twist up the 2 filters and wring them out very quickly over the funnel- just squeeze the fucker once and thats it, if there is bronze in them you will hear them hiss and groan. Drop the two filters into the reaction vessel then immediately. And cap it.

    Pull the cotton balls or plug from the neck and do the same.

    Get the RVessel the fuck outside or to a fire safe place. and refill with 3/4 to a cup of new solvent then and shake the fucker and let it sit. In a safe Place!!!

    Now Get yourself another vessel like the one you have your solvent in now and make sure its clean dry and at least luke warm or room temp.

    Pour the solvent from one vessel to the other 5 to 10 times.

    Check the smell of the solvent.

    The AA is completely gone yea?

    Yep...all gone.

    Clean the empty vessel thoroughly and dry and room temp or lukw warm it.

    Clean and dry the funnel well inside and out and fit it with one or two tightly packed cotton balls or a nice decent paper towel plug or both a plug and a cotton ball or two half ass tight on top of it and place two filters on top of these.

    Pre wet /pour a small amount of the same solvent you used / new stuff this time.. through the funnel and adjust the plug for a decent/ good filtration.

    Finish filter the solvent now.

    When its all filtered shove the filters and the plugs,cttnballs into the Reaction Vessel and recap immediately after its done filtering. This cuts the stinky factor down of the solvent in your enviro.. and keeps a handle on it.

    Gas the solvent.

    Put the gupps in after the bronze, this allows less precursers for the rxn, which means better yeild, less shit in there to trap the freebase Ma for it to cling get all mixed and mingled into.

    The rxn between the Amm Nitrate and Sodium Hydroxide runs alot better when the guppy pill mass isnt getting into the way in between the two.

    You get by with less Lithium to make the bronze because you arent shaking it and ramming it into the fert lye layer using up the bronze dicking around trying to make the gas to make the bronze etc. etc. You make the bronze with minimal Nh3 precursers and dont shake/waste any bronze.

    Any adulterant in the pill mass to counter act the rxn and or cripple the rxn betwen the two to get to or severely slow down the bronze endpoint is driven around.

    The Bronze is already made before the P. Mass gets in there. Giving them a big fuck you.


    Hey man yeah I have had a look havnt managed to make an account yet...
    And what is so different about your story that you had to try and steal my thread ;) ;) but seriously?
    You put ammonium nitrate as bold? Does my story not use it?

    Also in bold you say to add the PSE after bronze? Is that not in my story?

    I don't really understand what the "revolutionary advancement" is here.

    But hey nice share man.

    And yeah I remember you man... Weren't you a mod at one stage or am I just tripping? How the fuck you been anyway?
  • enso wrote:

    Hey man yeah I have had a look havnt managed to make an account yet...
    And what is so different about your story that you had to try and steal my thread ;) ;) but seriously?


    Hey, man. I've always been impressed by your write-up (stumbled across it a good while ago on another site), but I do have what seems to me to be a vital question. I've read that using the right amount of Li is extremely important in this reaction, since too little will result in underreduction and too much will result in overreduction. With that in mind, wouldn't two lithium strips be in extreme excess for 2.4-2.8 grams of pseudo? At least in theory? Doing the math with the 2:1 molar ratio, the number I get is less than half a gram or half a strip of Li. Shouldn't the S&B employ the same numbers as a legit birch? Or is there a reason you have to use so much more?

    Hope you don't mind the question. I'm just a clueless fella.
  • edited August 2016

    Hey, man. I've always been impressed by your write-up (stumbled across it a good while ago on another site), but I do have what seems to me to be a vital question. I've read that using the right amount of Li is extremely important in this reaction, since too little will result in underreduction and too much will result in overreduction. With that in mind, wouldn't two lithium strips be in extreme excess for 2.4-2.8 grams of pseudo? At least in theory? Doing the math with the 2:1 molar ratio, the number I get is less than half a gram or half a strip of Li. Shouldn't the S&B employ the same numbers as a legit birch? Or is there a reason you have to use so much more?

    Hope you don't mind the question. I'm just a clueless fella.

    Thanks man atleast you comment look at the view to comment ratio... Wow.
    I dont mind the question at all man ;)
    that's why I did this...

    But I don't think you are a clueless fella when you are bringing up molar ratios : ) done some organic Chem study have we ; )

    I like that...

    OK so.

    1. what you need to realise is with a traditional birch we are using clean PSE and we are not producing "ammonia gas" we have it at hand.
    also there is a lot less gunk.
    all reasons causing less lose.

    2. Most people that do this method unfortunately don't peel battery's in solvent causing quite abit of degradation of lithium from the start.

    3. There is obviously loses at the start of the reaction while the naoh does it work "basifying" the pse and producing ammiona gas and compressing that "ammiona gas".

    which isn't done in a traditional birch as you would know that's why you go to the trouble of getting "ammonia gas" to begin with.

    4. A lot of people don't hold pressure high enough for long enough while trying to liquefy or "pressurize" the lithium...
    Taking up more time... More time equals more lithium loss...

    There may be a few things I'm missing and sorry for taking so long to reply been pretty full on with study's...

    Currently doing my masters.

    Have you done any study in organic chem?

    Bringing up molar weights got me excited...

    I'm surprised you didn't bring up my NH₄NO₃ (80.04I g/mol) / NaOH (39.997 g/mol) ratio ?

    I have reasoning for that aswell.

    Edit 8/8/16: Removed my quoted comment to fix quote box :)
  • edited August 2016
    enso wrote: »

    Thanks man atleast you comment look at the view to comment ratio... Wow.
    I dont mind the question at all man ;)
    that's why I did this...

    But I don't think you are a clueless fella when you are bringing up molar ratios : ) done some organic Chem study have we ; )

    I like that...

    OK so.

    1. what you need to realise is with a traditional birch we are using clean PSE and we are not producing "ammonia gas" we have it at hand.
    also there is a lot less gunk.
    all reasons causing less lose.

    2. Most people that do this method unfortunately don't peel battery's in solvent causing quite abit of degradation of lithium from the start.

    3. There is obviously loses at the start of the reaction while the naoh does it work "basifying" the pse and producing ammiona gas and compressing that "ammiona gas".

    which isn't done in a traditional birch as you would know that's why you go to the trouble of getting "ammonia gas" to begin with.

    4. A lot of people don't hold pressure high enough for long enough while trying to liquefy or "pressurize" the lithium...
    Taking up more time... More time equals more lithium loss...

    There may be a few things I'm missing and sorry for taking so long to reply been pretty full on with study's...

    Currently doing my masters.

    Have you done any study in organic chem?

    Bringing up molar weights got me excited...

    I'm surprised you didn't bring up my NH₄NO₃ (80.04I g/mol) / NaOH (39.997 g/mol) ratio ?

    I have reasoning for that aswell.

    Edit 8/8/16: Removed my quoted comment to fix quote box :)

    Ah. Thanks for the answer. I knew there had to be losses along the way, but I didn't realize how substantial they were. Your no. 4 is the best argument for the Sodastream bottles. They seem to be key, here.

    I've not studied organic chemistry, formally or otherwise, but I would enjoy doing some self-study if I could come across the right text. I've just read a few things on the net. Awesome that you're working on your masters, man. Good luck with that.

    I was initially attending college as a Lit major because I wanted to teach in the English department at a community college or uni, but I dropped out. I've always dealt with extreme social anxiety, and I found it to be very debilitating and discouraging in the college environment. I would love to go back one day. I could never work in groups or assert myself in the classroom, though. If I didn't rectify those things beforehand, it would be a waste.

    Anyway, thanks again for the write-up! Awesome to have something like this written by someone actually qualified to write it.
  • edited September 2016
    Question.. Why use the NP in the RV since it is explosive and opening the lid a bit too much is going to be bad ? Is this just here to take out the step of adding it later for extraction of base or does it serve some other purpose besides taking up space in bottle so air is not in it ?
    Any substitutes come to mind to use instead of an explosive one for this ? How about the R-134a?
    Cant this be done without the NP or with just a tiny bit to start the gas reaction? Adding it after done like any other method.
    Im just guessing here that a 500 mill bottle with only the lye lithium AN in it would pressurize and do the job . Once reaction done and pse added keep shaking so it all makes contact with bronze .
    After done adding fuel should present no danger .
    I think only danger in the whole thing is probably water being added since nothing else in there can cause a fire to start.
  • edited September 2016
    joe8567 wrote: »
    Question.. Why use the NP in the RV since it is explosive and opening the lid a bit too much is going to be bad ? Is this just here to take out the step of adding it later for extraction of base or does it serve some other purpose besides taking up space in bottle so air is not in it ?
    Any substitutes come to mind to use instead of an explosive one for this ? How about the R-134a?
    Cant this be done without the NP or with just a tiny bit to start the gas reaction? Adding it after done like any other method.
    Im just guessing here that a 500 mill bottle with only the lye lithium AN in it would pressurize and do the job . Once reaction done and pse added keep shaking so it all makes contact with bronze .
    After done adding fuel should present no danger .
    I think only danger in the whole thing is probably water being added since nothing else in there can cause a fire to start.

    You are more worried about the fuel than the lith... Fuel protects the lithium without it you would potentially have a flameing strip of lithium sitting on naoh and nitrate... The plastic container will probably disfigure... How are you protecting the lithium from the air?

    Basic science teaches that due to h20 being in the air once lithium is no longer " protected " by the solvent ect it rapid heats and degrades... Can easily catch fire just by holding it in the air to long. ( especially if its very humid)

    Hmmm I read some of your comment and it makes me think you know what your talking about...

    But that last bit threw me and I think you need to sit back and look at the big picture here...
    What is happening in the vessel...

    Break it down...
    What is every chemical doing "what is its job" ...

    What byproducts does it produce ect...
    (Did you know the reaction between the naoh and the nitrate produce small amounts of water (h20) as a byproduct?)

    You say couldn't you just not use NP like in other methods (I think you mentioned birch as one)?

    Umm what?

    What modified or even classical birch doesn't use an NP as a solvent? (You realize the most two used solvent in birch is ether or toluene which are both NP)

    I think you might be experienced in rp/I which I'm guessing is what you mean by every other method...

    In which case you don't need to worry about getting enough pressure to get the lithium into the solvent ect...

    I would never ever shake "copper" lithium around in a container without solvent?

    That's crazy talk... Just asking for a fire.

    One important factor which you are forgetting is what happens to lithium in air?

    Well one things for sure if it doesn't catch fire it will degrade very rapidly...
    Now I mean fucking rapidly...

    Remember np keeps lithium stable for long enough to solvate into the NP...

    Not to mention while doing that you want the least amount of room available to build pressure and compress the gas .
    From the an and naoh.

    What your saying is actually a lot more likely to "catch fire" as the lithium has nothing keeping it stable.

    Also how are you expecting the PSE to reduce?

    I will explain how it works simplified...
    So the PSE gets very high ph and turns to an oil which in turn solvates into NP.
    lithium "bounces around like crazy in" the NP along with your pressurized gas and that's pretty much the simplest way to explain the reduction phase...

    if it even makes sense.

    but we don't need to go that far in today.

    But hey if you don't believe me go ahead try your theory...

    But I can promise you now you will not get gear...
    Might as well huff some raid...

    How are you even meant to extract or filter your final product from all the GUP in the bottle?

    Not to mention I'm guessing it would be pretty hard to get the pH back down if You somehow did get it up in the first place... Might Be Possible... You said you would still use naoh...

    To answer your question about the solvent correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the suzy base and then reduce to base methamphetamine oil.
    (Rp/i can be different)

    Then either gas or water titrate To bring the pH back down to 7 " Methamphetamine HCl "?
    (Keeping it as simple of possible of course you could go a lot deeper into it).

  • enso wrote: »

    Thanks man atleast you comment look at the view to comment ratio... Wow.
    I dont mind the question at all man ;)
    that's why I did this...

    But I don't think you are a clueless fella when you are bringing up molar ratios : ) done some organic Chem study have we ; )

    I like that...

    OK so.

    1. what you need to realise is with a traditional birch we are using clean PSE and we are not producing "ammonia gas" we have it at hand.
    also there is a lot less gunk.
    all reasons causing less lose.

    2. Most people that do this method unfortunately don't peel battery's in solvent causing quite abit of degradation of lithium from the start.

    3. There is obviously loses at the start of the reaction while the naoh does it work "basifying" the pse and producing ammiona gas and compressing that "ammiona gas".

    which isn't done in a traditional birch as you would know that's why you go to the trouble of getting "ammonia gas" to begin with.

    4. A lot of people don't hold pressure high enough for long enough while trying to liquefy or "pressurize" the lithium...
    Taking up more time... More time equals more lithium loss...

    There may be a few things I'm missing and sorry for taking so long to reply been pretty full on with study's...

    Currently doing my masters.

    Have you done any study in organic chem?

    Bringing up molar weights got me excited...

    I'm surprised you didn't bring up my NH₄NO₃ (80.04I g/mol) / NaOH (39.997 g/mol) ratio ?

    I have reasoning for that aswell.

    Edit 8/8/16: Removed my quoted comment to fix quote box :)

    Ah. Thanks for the answer. I knew there had to be losses along the way, but I didn't realize how substantial they were. Your no. 4 is the best argument for the Sodastream bottles. They seem to be key, here.

    I've not studied organic chemistry, formally or otherwise, but I would enjoy doing some self-study if I could come across the right text. I've just read a few things on the net. Awesome that you're working on your masters, man. Good luck with that.

    I was initially attending college as a Lit major because I wanted to teach in the English department at a community college or uni, but I dropped out. I've always dealt with extreme social anxiety, and I found it to be very debilitating and discouraging in the college environment. I would love to go back one day. I could never work in groups or assert myself in the classroom, though. If I didn't rectify those things beforehand, it would be a waste.

    Anyway, thanks again for the write-up! Awesome to have something like this written by someone actually qualified to write it.

    Thanks for the well wishes man...
    I kinda understand the anxiety thing as I get pretty anxious in crowded places...
    But I wouldn't call it major anxiety i would say maybe minor as its only in really really crowded places...

    Peak hour public transport ect...
    (I don't do public transport)
    Back on subject...
    And yeah man some people "burp" way to early...

    With these sodastreams you can let it go until you can't push the side in at all with the full strength of both thumbs...

    Now where talking over 100psi here...
    Not to worry these beasts are rated at 250psi.

    And I did this to show people that this isn't as dangerous as the media and goverment make it out to be and if done properly with the right safety precautions nothing bad is going to happen.

    As I say in the op this method produces the most desired form of method dmeth... None of that racemic shhit here.

    Feel free to drop by whenever... Took abit long to reply to ths because I missed this comment.
    My bad bro
  • Seems there's been an issue with the use of Sodastream bottles, as of late. And one that didn't used to exist. Not sure what changed, but either the heat produced or the lye is now eating through the seal within the first fifteen minutes and sabotaging the reaction. I see that Sodastream sells a separate dishwasher-safe bottle, so perhaps that is the answer? Not sure why this has suddenly decided to happen, though.
  • edited October 2016
    enso, thanks for the informative reply. I was just tossing out some things I had read. Anyway the np thing was a comment I read about maybe using some other liquid that was not explosive , they suggested freon ..??
    Oh well I got another question for you. As I was reading your post it mentioned a fire extinguisher story that is not in the post . This is what I was thinking long ago. Has anyone tried doing this in a small F E ? Seems it would hold all the pressure without having to let it out till it was done . Or is there just too much air space in there for this to be feasable . If so could this space be taken up with more NP?
    Oh and yes the RP is my fav. How ever back in the day we made our own PSP and so on . It was complicated and costly and very dangerous to purchase the chems. The feds eventually managed to take some stuff. Sure was a good high though.
    Here is a hoot , I just found a vicks inhaler , the good one, in a old box of stuff I had in closet for decades . I used to enjoy that. My first cook? from Speed made easy and then went on to uncle fester. His PSP recipe is missing a little something that we had to figure out. When we got good at it we turned it blue by running the HCI through a copper fitting . Sky blue happyness.

    One more question about bottles . This I read here is about 100psi ? Is this correct? Soda stream bottles here are rare and only big sized , no 500 ml. I ask because I was thinking of testing some different bottles for pressure ability and want to make sure I test to a proper pressure . What would be the greatest amount it would build up if not vented until end of rxn ?
  • edited October 2016
    enso , got one more . Back in the day everyone used the quicky ammonia method as it was easy to come by in farm country . I always thought that the PSE should have been based before dropping into the rxn since it was in need of it anyway thus making the whole thing work better. So my ? is would this shake n bake be better served if an added step was put in of basing the pse ? Now myself having never used anything other than purified PSE I do not know what would happen if one based the whole pile of pill crap . would it mess it up ?

    Im out of the game these days and most info in my brain is long forgotten to old age and other things. Just brainstorming some ideas to pass on to others
  • Enso, I would like to take the time to say thank you for a uncocky, very clear, safe (as long as you follow the instructions) write-up. I have successfully read it many times now and by the time I got to the last part always put a positive thought into the ethereal for you. Before I came upon your write up I had read others and even though I was skeptical I read on anyway. Right about the same time in my life I ended up in a hospital with some 3rd degree burns.. it sucked. Whenever i would first read your w/u I was always feeling gun shy about how much pressure i was suppose keep... Flashbacks and so of course when I started out I always ended up with a story that wasnt bad but wasnt good... so I trusted in you and the last 5-6 times I have read you w/u . I read it to the full , cant push in part and just went with it. And the last few times i finished reading yours i would actually have a pretty good story to share myself. Once again thank you. One question though (actually two) When you say you know that your done when after 30-40 seconds of sitting still after a big shake it clears up. As many time as I ve read your w/u it never seems to be the same as the last time I read it and sometimes i read it quick and other times it seems to take forever. How clear are you talking... so clear that i can read the other side of the bottle or just not that skim choco milk color? Last question is Would it behoove me to use (hypothetical) already clean pfed or even better pfed already based and in a np solvent... if you know for sure it makes no difference in the end well then i will leave it alone... if not what are your thoughts on based pfed like a actual birch? Peace
  • Hey man... good job with this very clear n concise step by step explanation of this synthesis. I'm still kinda new to story telling, but I got a firm grasp on what's going on... do have one question though... I think it's pretty rhetorical, but I'll ask anyway for future reference... i may have hypothetically put too much sulfer/salt in the bottle for the gassing and didn't notice when it crept it's way up the tube and into the mix... I didn't really notice for like a minute... just thought it was dropping really well and that I needed to remember exactly how my story played out to repeat the process... Yea.... not so much... well I mucked the whole thing... my question would be if there was a way to save it or not... honestly think I put all that work in for nothing, and wasted 3 hrs of my life,
  • since soda stream seams to be compromised or so i read , how about a plastic whiskey bottle ? I love whiskey and them bottles are tough. I was just pouring some and thought about it . Another thing , dollar general has these plastic drink bottles by rubbermaid. The kind with the flip lid to pour . but it has a pint sized screw on lid. this thing is tough. Either get another lid for it or screw a fitting into that pour hole and put a valve on it to release pressure. I plan on pressure testing one but art the moment can only get up to 100 psi. got to get bigger pump.
  • That was going to be one of my questions about the RV. Is there a way to safely make a way to test the internal pressure of the bottle? I'd like to do a test run on a powerful bottle or something to see what actual psi would need to be reached to make the bottle blow. I have a few other questions 'enso' if you would indulge me..
  • This RXN utilizes Li transitioned to its metallic state, which is 8 to 10 time more effective than the traditional Benseker reduction using dissolved Li metal in liquid ammonia.
  • @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack
  • Has anyone tried this with PPA or Ephedrine?
  • @lobster2092
    Back before the SS bottles were incorporated, a 20 oz pop or gatoraid would work. Then they changed the threads on the cap that allowed weakness in the lid and the bottles were failing. One would simply cut his NH3/NaOH reactants in half from the get go and soak in a ice bath if it got too hot to keep the bottles from failing. This still works for reg pop bottles/gatoraids, but takes your RXN twice as long, and you have to recharge with more reactants a time or two after the initial add. I suggest doing the same with SS bottle, and report back. Should solve your problem.
  • Also note, dont shake the bottle for first 30 mins to hour, swirl, until you see little sand like bronze partles floating around the Li Then give it a good shake once or twice. This seems to send the metal into its metallic liquid state. Always seems to form after the Naoh/Nh3 hits the Li metal briefly. Noted that a normal RXN of this type takes about 3-5 hours for anything good.
  • murrple wrote: »
    That was going to be one of my questions about the RV. Is there a way to safely make a way to test the internal pressure of the bottle? I'd like to do a test run on a powerful bottle or something to see what actual psi would need to be reached to make the bottle blow. I have a few other questions 'enso' if you would indulge me..

    Sure . I made one but forgot I sold my air compressor. Just adapt a fitting to the bottle and screw a air fitting on that and plug on an air hose. You might also screw on an air gauge if you want to know exactly when it fails. I got an bottle from dollar general that had a screw on large lid with the flip part for drinking , a sports drink container I guess from rubber maid . Screwed a fitting right into that flip top hole . Self threaded its way in . nice and tight. A pop bottle would work just like that except you would need a fitting that screwed on like the cap does. Should be a standard hose fitting thread I think.

    Also they have plastic container companies . they will have plastic bottles that hold pressures. Just ask them.
  • Have not seen enso on here lately. Hope Enso is well . Probably quite busy . Posted a question in the fire extinguisher thread. Maybe someone here has tried that method which to me seems like the best method to use if you want to be a smart fireman . Instead of a 1 LITER which is not to be found , perhaps double up and a 2 liter for better fire protection.
    If any ideas on this please post them in enso fire extinguisher thread so as not to change this thread. I ONLY POSTED HERE BECAUSE NO ANSWER IN OTHER THREAD

    THIS QUESTION IS CLOSED FOR THIS THREAD. PLEASE POST REPLIES IN FIRE EXTINGUISHER THREAD.
  • Say Enso, this is not exactly on this subject but I would like your opinion since you are full of info that does not get people hurt.
    Long ago The old Lithium thing was very popular here in the states. It is expensive to buy camera batteries. So my thought was that people who wanted that for what ever reason it was , might use sodium metal instead. Now since SM would have a different molecular weight than lithium ( keep in mind I am no chemist , just self taught a little bit) I would think a different ratio of lithium to other ingredient would be in line.
    Any idea how much Sm would be used in place of lithium in the standard method , not the one here. ?
    the SM I thought could be easily and discretely obtained from perhaps melting lye and using a 12 volt battery and jumper cables like a arc welder and popping out the SM from the molten lye. But I long ago forgot what I thought should be used as a rod for the arc. ( not sure where I came up with this idea at )
  • @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack

    The water filter was my idea, anyone wanting to know how to make one pm me. Also anyone that feels the need to add water to RV even though u dont need to but if you myst put it in be for you add your battery strips.and instead of ice and water for cooling bath use snow and muriatic acid and make a slushy it will get as cold as -20 in notime
  • HEIDI LORASBI was introduced to Syncis in 2012. Heidi immigrated to the United States over 25 years ago to pursue her dreams. She had a very successful career in retail, regularly receiving awards for her production. After getting married and having a beautiful daughter, she had the luxury of staying at home and focusing full time on raising her daughter.

    http://www.syncis.com

    The crash of 2008/2009 not only affected her families finances, but it was also the time that she and her husband decided to go their separate ways. After her divorce, Heidi returned to school and studied accounting. She became very frustrated when she found out that the maximum hourly pay for someone with an accounting degree and no experience was only $12 on a part time basis (no benefits) with no flexibility as far as the hours. It was at that time that she was introduced to Syncis and the financial industry.

    http://www.teamelitezone.com

    Working at Syncis has been a dream comes true for Heidi. She gets to do what she has always loved to do which is helping families and individuals while still being about to be a full time mom and raise her daughter. It has also given her the opportunity to build her life and to have a vehicle to be able to reach her goals and dreams for herself and her family.


    https://www.facebook.com/SyncisSFV/?fref=ts


    Heidi is one of the top trainers in the San Fernando Valley office, and is regularly recognized for her contributions to the entire organization.
  • edited December 2016
    First of all what is this shit???
    HEIDI LORASBI was introduced to Syncis in 2012. Heidi immigrated to the United States over 25 years ago to pursue her dreams. She had a very successful career in retail, regularly receiving awards for her production. After getting married and having a beautiful daughter, she had the luxury of staying at home and focusing full time on raising her daughter.

    http://www.syncis.com

    The crash of 2008/2009 not only affected her families finances, but it was also the time that she and her husband decided to go their separate ways. After her divorce, Heidi returned to school and studied accounting. She became very frustrated when she found out that the maximum hourly pay for someone with an accounting degree and no experience was only $12 on a part time basis (no benefits) with no flexibility as far as the hours. It was at that time that she was introduced to Syncis and the financial industry.

    http://www.teamelitezone.com

    Working at Syncis has been a dream comes true for Heidi. She gets to do what she has always loved to do which is helping families and individuals while still being about to be a full time mom and raise her daughter. It has also given her the opportunity to build her life and to have a vehicle to be able to reach her goals and dreams for herself and her family.


    https://www.facebook.com/SyncisSFV/?fref=ts


    Heidi is one of the top trainers in the San Fernando Valley office, and is regularly recognized for her contributions to the entire organization.

    FUCK OFF WITH YOUR UNRELATED BULLSHIT!!!

    IM BACK.

    things have been full steam and I have had little to no time for my personal hobbies anyway I am back and here to answer all asked questions and future questions to come.

    Please stand by while I answer asked questions and feel free to ask any questions you have
    And I will get back to you asap.

    NOW LET'S FLOOD THE MARKET WITH THE HIGH PURITY FROM THIS METHod.
  • edited December 2016
    @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack

    Missed people like this one... How you been brother.


  • edited December 2016
    Multi post please remove me
  • enso wrote: »
    Seems there's been an issue with the use of Sodastream bottles, as of late. And one that didn't used to exist. Not sure what changed, but either the heat produced or the lye is now eating through the seal within the first fifteen minutes and sabotaging the reaction. I see that Sodastream sells a separate dishwasher-safe bottle, so perhaps that is the answer? Not sure why this has suddenly decided to happen, though.

    Sorry lobster all the sodastreams I have used to date still work a charm what solvent are you useing and is they are a new model look up any msds ECT you can find and see if they have added anything different?
    ...Rant started...
    Maybe so these beast have become pretty popular and most big company's see METH as the devil... It's not it's people that can't control there shit that ruin it for everyone look at alcohol for example... Plenty of people have ruined there life ECT with alcohol... It is not the drug it's the person.
    Rant over

    joe8567 wrote: »
    enso, thanks for the informative reply. I was just tossing out some things I had read. Anyway the np thing was a comment I read about maybe using some other liquid that was not explosive , they suggested freon ..??
    Oh well I got another question for you. As I was reading your post it mentioned a fire extinguisher story that is not in the post . This is what I was thinking long ago. Has anyone tried doing this in a small F E ? Seems it would hold all the pressure without having to let it out till it was done . Or is there just too much air space in there for this to be feasable . If so could this space be taken up with more NP?
    Oh and yes the RP is my fav. How ever back in the day we made our own PSP and so on . It was complicated and costly and very dangerous to purchase the chems. The feds eventually managed to take some stuff. Sure was a good high though.
    Here is a hoot , I just found a vicks inhaler , the good one, in a old box of stuff I had in closet for decades . I used to enjoy that. My first cook? from Speed made easy and then went on to uncle fester. His PSP recipe is missing a little something that we had to figure out. When we got good at it we turned it blue by running the HCI through a copper fitting . Sky blue happyness.

    One more question about bottles . This I read here is about 100psi ? Is this correct? Soda stream bottles here are rare and only big sized , no 500 ml. I ask because I was thinking of testing some different bottles for pressure ability and want to make sure I test to a proper pressure . What would be the greatest amount it would build up if not vented until end of rxn ?

    I JUST WANT TO CALL BULLSHIT... WHY?

    Ok man I heard the Vicks thing has always been a myth... Something about the old ones only producing l-meth?

    We are after d-meth even if it is that p2p racemic crank rubbish.
    Use your "p2p not psp" to make other drugs.
    (We are not talking game consoles here)
    DO you even know what (RP/I) is seeing though it is your "fav"

    Give it up bro...

    We all started somewhere...

    And anyone knowing what they are talking about is going to pick you up on your lies every time...

    Anyway I will answer your questions.

    I think I mentioned this a couple of posts back so maybe have a read but I will say it again.

    these babys are rated at over 250 psi and the reaction only requires 100 psi.
    That is a bit of room to play if you ask me.

    joe8567 wrote: »
    enso , got one more .

    Back in the day everyone used the quicky ammonia method as it was easy to come by in farm country .

    I always thought that the PSE should have been based before dropping into the rxn since it was in need of it anyway thus making the whole thing work better.

    So my ? is would this shake n bake be better served if an added step was put in of basing the pse ?

    Now myself having never used anything other than purified PSE I do not know what would happen if one based the whole pile of pill crap . would it mess it up ?

    Ive never been in the game but I have done a bit of research and most info in my brain is long forgotten to old age and other things. Just brainstorming some ideas to pass on to others

    You are correct in saying that people used to use anhydrous ammonia from tanks at farms and that is known as the birch method...

    This method we are talking about now is a modified birch...

    There is a few differences and the modified birch can be done in one container instead of multiple which is why some call it the onepot method...

    In this vessel there are multiple rxns happening at once (NAOH does one of the jobs of baseing)
    So I don't see why you would need to base your Suzy pre rxn
    Enso, I would like to take the time to say thank you for a uncocky, very clear, safe (as long as you follow the instructions) write-up. I have successfully read it many times now and by the time I got to the last part always put a positive thought into the ethereal for you. Before I came upon your write up I had read others and even though I was skeptical I read on anyway. Right about the same time in my life I ended up in a hospital with some 3rd degree burns.. it sucked. Whenever i would first read your w/u I was always feeling gun shy about how much pressure i was suppose keep... Flashbacks and so of course when I started out I always ended up with a story that wasnt bad but wasnt good... so I trusted in you and the last 5-6 times I have read you w/u . I read it to the full , cant push in part and just went with it. And the last few times i finished reading yours i would actually have a pretty good story to share myself. Once again thank you. One question though (actually two) When you say you know that your done when after 30-40 seconds of sitting still after a big shake it clears up. As many time as I ve read your w/u it never seems to be the same as the last time I read it and sometimes i read it quick and other times it seems to take forever. How clear are you talking... so clear that i can read the other side of the bottle or just not that skim choco milk color? Last question is Would it behoove me to use (hypothetical) already clean pfed or even better pfed already based and in a np solvent... if you know for sure it makes no difference in the end well then i will leave it alone... if not what are your thoughts on based pfed like a actual birch? Peace

    I'm sorry to hear about your burns... And that's why I am here to teach safe methods that if done correctly this will not happen to you again or hopefully anybody else...

    Yes this is a tried and true METHod I have helped people over team skype ECT and product came up a1 I have no doubts in this METHod story as I myself and a lot of others have completed reading with a great result. But thank you for the positive feedback... Means a lot to people thinking of reading this story for the first time.

    And I mean clear man like you should be able to see through the container quite easily the dark colour should be coming from the lithium in the solvent.

    We want this to be completely "spent" before finishing up the reaction to make sure all of the pse is fully reduced.

    And yes cleaning your pills pre rxn will help but I see no point in basing as I said previously as this is done in the rxn by the NaOh.

    murrple wrote: »
    Hey man... good job with this very clear n concise step by step explanation of this synthesis. I'm still kinda new to story telling, but I got a firm grasp on what's going on... do have one question though... I think it's pretty rhetorical, but I'll ask anyway for future reference... i may have hypothetically put too much sulfer/salt in the bottle for the gassing and didn't notice when it crept it's way up the tube and into the mix... I didn't really notice for like a minute... just thought it was dropping really well and that I needed to remember exactly how my story played out to repeat the process... Yea.... not so much... well I mucked the whole thing... my question would be if there was a way to save it or not... honestly think I put all that work in for nothing, and wasted 3 hrs of my life,

    It might be to late by now but hopefully you haven't thrown this away because there might be a way to save it...

    If you did keep the solvent keep adding little bits of NaOH to it agitate with a glass rod (stir with a glass rod or similar)
    Until you reach 12 ph.

    Then add water bring ph back to 7 with hcl then evaporate water...

    You could always try gasing again after getting the ph up again but pay a bit more attention this time around.
    joe8567 wrote: »
    since soda stream seams to be compromised or so i read , how about a plastic whiskey bottle ? I love whiskey and them bottles are tough. I was just pouring some and thought about it . Another thing , dollar general has these plastic drink bottles by rubbermaid. The kind with the flip lid to pour . but it has a pint sized screw on lid. this thing is tough. Either get another lid for it or screw a fitting into that pour hole and put a valve on it to release pressure. I plan on pressure testing one but art the moment can only get up to 100 psi. got to get bigger pump.

    The ss will work fine I think it's the solvent he is using...

    If not look up the difference between the dishwasher safe ones and the other ones and hit me back up...
    murrple wrote: »
    That was going to be one of my questions about the RV. Is there a way to safely make a way to test the internal pressure of the bottle? I'd like to do a test run on a powerful bottle or something to see what actual psi would need to be reached to make the bottle blow. I have a few other questions 'enso' if you would indulge me..

    There is quite a simple way to test pressure of the ss.

    Go get yourself a pressure dial from your local hardware store the one with the male thread on the bottom.
    Drill a hole in the lid of the ss a bit smaller than the thread and twist it in nice and tight.
    You can also put some hot glue ECT
    This RXN utilizes Li transitioned to its metallic state, which is 8 to 10 time more effective than the traditional Benseker reduction using dissolved Li metal in liquid ammonia.
    @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack

    Haha I was one of the posters that helped get that pressure release working.

    I remember that contraption you are talking about being clear and blue :)... Ring any bells?
    Has anyone tried this with PPA or Ephedrine?
    Ppa doesn't work ephedrine does
    joe8567 wrote: »
    Have not seen enso on here lately. Hope Enso is well . Probably quite busy . Posted a question in the fire extinguisher thread. Maybe someone here has tried that method which to me seems like the best method to use if you want to be a smart fireman . Instead of a 1 LITER which is not to be found , perhaps double up and a 2 liter for better fire protection.
    If any ideas on this please post them in enso fire extinguisher thread so as not to change this thread. I ONLY POSTED HERE BECAUSE NO ANSWER IN OTHER THREAD

    THIS QUESTION IS CLOSED FOR THIS THREAD. PLEASE POST REPLIES IN FIRE EXTINGUISHER THREAD.
    Sorry man been really busy.
    You can but you will need more solvent :)
    joe8567 wrote: »
    Say Enso, this is not exactly on this subject but I would like your opinion since you are full of info that does not get people hurt.
    Long ago The old Lithium thing was very popular here in the states. It is expensive to buy camera batteries. So my thought was that people who wanted that for what ever reason it was , might use sodium metal instead. Now since SM would have a different molecular weight than lithium ( keep in mind I am no chemist , just self taught a little bit) I would think a different ratio of lithium to other ingredient would be in line.
    Any idea how much Sm would be used in place of lithium in the standard method , not the one here. ?
    the SM I thought could be easily and discretely obtained from perhaps melting lye and using a 12 volt battery and jumper cables like a arc welder and popping out the SM from the molten lye. But I long ago forgot what I thought should be used as a rod for the arc. ( not sure where I came up with this idea at )
    I will actually look this up but I'm pretty sure that is not strong enough to reduce pse but I may be wrong
    dean45 wrote: »
    @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack
    dean45 wrote: »
    The water filter was my idea, anyone wanting to know how to make one pm me. Also anyone that feels the need to add water to RV even though u dont need to but if you myst put it in be for you add your battery strips.and instead of ice and water for cooling bath use snow and muriatic acid and make a slushy it will get as cold as -20 in notime
    Missed people like this one... How you been brother.


    Been good good to be back
  • Questions:
    Does the temp of the solvent have anything to do with final purity/quantity. Havent dreamed in over a year till recent, and the potency was still pretty much there, but the yeild was half as much as usual! Noticed same solvent isnt getting hot, and battery isnt breaking down into small bbs or puddles of bronze. Still getting a milkshake, just not very thick and snow globey like it used to. I have lost some touch, nothing i cant get back. I seem to recall switching to toluene once and it staying warm and everything working ok, but then, poof, the toluene dissapeared in the area.
    Any help enso on why my battery isnt breaking down like It used to? Using 1/4 cup AN 1/8 cup NAOH to start reaction, then recharging vessel when spent. Waiting till its nearly spent to add decongestant. Agitating to clearness and gassing thereafter. RXN solvent washed before starting and before gassing.
  • edited December 2016
    Questions:
    Does the temp of the solvent have anything to do with final purity/quantity. Havent dreamed in over a year till recent, and the potency was still pretty much there, but the yeild was half as much as usual! Noticed same solvent isnt getting hot, and battery isnt breaking down into small bbs or puddles of bronze. Still getting a milkshake, just not very thick and snow globey like it used to. I have lost some touch, nothing i cant get back. I seem to recall switching to toluene once and it staying warm and everything working ok, but then, poof, the toluene dissapeared in the area.
    Any help enso on why my battery isnt breaking down like It used to? Using 1/4 cup AN 1/8 cup NAOH to start reaction, then recharging vessel when spent. Waiting till its nearly spent to add decongestant. Agitating to clearness and gassing thereafter. RXN solvent washed before starting and before gassing.

    Yes while bronziing it is better to try and keep your solvent cool as the "bronzing" happens alot quacker :perturbed: but also calms a over the top reaction if needed.
    As for the heat
    Yes this helps tremendously when ruducing your pse if you are worried you are not getting enough heat drop the vessel in and out of a "hot bath" to bring the heat back up...
    You could always use a hairdryer As well.

    Ok so there could be a couple of reasons for you yield loss.

    In your story have you .been holding pressure for as long as you used to?
    Not being able to push the bottle in with the full power of both thumbs tends to be a good sign you are holding enough pressure.

    Another reason for noticeable loss in yield is h2o is the humidity higher than you when last read the story?
    Here is a massive hint for anyone...
    Dry this dry that dry everything...
    DO you "dry your solvents?
    DO you dry the gas in your story?
    Especially while using foil method as this produces h2o as a byproduct...
    Because if not water is a bit reason for loss of yield?

    Get back at me asap
  • Thanks for the reply. Well, freebase MA wont dissolve in water or polar solvents, so the water isnt eating it. I was thinking maybe it was a new expipient in the pills. Around here, no one shakes anymore. Ice rules all. As for moisture or humidity, i doubt that has a role. I was thinking when i added the decongestant back when, it got alot hotter till the remainder of the rxn. It doesnt do that anymore. As for the battery not breaking down into a puddle, i wonder why this is. Anyone getting a strong ammonia smell from thier first burp, but only a chlorine type smell for any other times burping? small things i am noticing. As far as pressure, believe me, i only vent when i have to. I think maybe i am not pushing the rxn as long as i used to (4 hours). Now its like half that time or less. I will take more time and report back.
  • edited December 2016
    Thanks for the reply. Well, freebase MA wont dissolve in water or polar solvents, so the water isnt eating it. I was thinking maybe it was a new expipient in the pills. Around here, no one shakes anymore. Ice rules all. As for moisture or humidity, i doubt that has a role. I was thinking when i added the decongestant back when, it got alot hotter till the remainder of the rxn. It doesnt do that anymore. As for the battery not breaking down into a puddle, i wonder why this is. Anyone getting a strong ammonia smell from thier first burp, but only a chlorine type smell for any other times burping? small things i am noticing. As far as pressure, believe me, i only vent when i have to. I think maybe i am not pushing the rxn as long as i used to (4 hours). Now its like half that time or less. I will take more time and report back.

    It might be the tablets but I doubt it....
    What are the other active chemicals in your decongestants?

    Normally any other active that will effect the rxn will just "gel it up"

    And yes I am aware that freebase MA is insouble in water this is why I say to do a water wash post rxn

    BUT when you start to gas it brings the ph down lower and makes it love water... If you have water in your gas or solvent then as soon as it crashes out it immediately dissolves in said water... Trust me I have had up to 50% loss because of said water...
    It could be that they are adding water to the solvent you are using could be water as a byproduct... Could be multiple things.
    Don't quote me on this number but I'm pretty sure and I will double check but you can dissolve 2 grams into 2ml of warm water... Now that's a massive loss

    Try drying your solvent pre gas
    And if there is no noticeable difference rig up a gas drier trust me it's easy as fuck and you will see a world of difference?

    Also DO you rextalize?
  • Got cha, about the gas having moisture. How would i make it more dry? Back in the day, gas used to sting the skin when the hose was pump against it. not anymore. I never dry solvents. Seemed to never make a difference for me before. And Still no idea on why batts arent puddling into bronze? But excipients in pills arent listed, at least the anti ma forumulations anyway.
  • edited December 2016
    Got cha, about the gas having moisture. How would i make it more dry? Back in the day, gas used to sting the skin when the hose was pump against it. not anymore. I never dry solvents. Seemed to never make a difference for me before. And Still no idea on why batts arent puddling into bronze? But excipients in pills arent listed, at least the anti ma forumulations anyway.

    What brand tabs are you using I will look up the msds they have to add every ingredient in it including non active...
    And it's simple you can rig up a drying chamber in I couple of minutes.

    What you need:
    ° Dry Epsom... ( explained in OP)
    ° A lunchbox sized airtight container
    ° Some tape
    ° Some tubeing (rubber or plastic)

    How it's made:

    1. Grab your lunchbox and remove the lid.
    2. Full the bottom of the lunchbox with a thick layer of dry Epsom.
    3. Grab your lid and drill a hole in both ends of the lid a bit smaller than your tube.
    4. Put your lid back on and tape around the lid to avoid leaks
    5. Insert the tube from your gas generator into one end of the lunchbox.
    6. Insert tightly remaining tube into the other end of the lunchbox.
    7. Now gas as normal but use the hose from hole b in the lunchbox.

    But how does this work?

    Dry Epsom salt pulls water from anything around it including air.

    This is why when the gas passes the Dry Epsom it pulls any water from the gas and pushes dry gas out the other side.

    Now as for your lithium not puddleing up
    How many times has this happened to you?

    DO you peel your lithium under solvent to avoid degradation?

    Most of the time if it doesn't puddle it's either not enough pressure it took to long peeling battery.

    As you said it could also be time? How long have you been pushing out your stories?
  • edited December 2016
    Got cha, about the gas having moisture. How would i make it more dry? Back in the day, gas used to sting the skin when the hose was pump against it. not anymore. I never dry solvents. Seemed to never make a difference for me before. And Still no idea on why batts arent puddling into bronze? But excipients in pills arent listed, at least the anti ma forumulations anyway.

    Also I just thought another reason could be you are using a different NaOH to AN ratio to when you used to write stories.

    A higher AN ratio e.g. (AN=2,NaOH=1) produces more h20 as a byproduct meaning a stronger reaction and no need for extra water but this extra h20 might be following through to the final extraction causing massloss due to reasons mentioned above...

    I have an experiment for you.

    In your next story instead of gassing try water titration (it's in the OP) this way if your were having any loss via h20 while gassing then we will find out.

    This way we can eliminate the h20 or at least eliminate the h20 as the problem.

    Now after your next story if you titrate and there is still a massive loss then we know the problem wasn't the h20 and most importantly wasn't post rxn...

    we can now troubleshoot from there...

    If we have minimal to no loss using the water titrate method then we know it was either water in our solvent, gas, or somewhere down the line.

    And then we can pull out the Dry Epsom and try and find the problem.

    E.g. Dry solvent try again...
    Still loss?
    Dry gas try again.
    Still a loss?
    More troubleshooting....

    This way we can find exactly what's wrong if it's post rxn and make sure it doesn't happen again.
  • ...JUST A REMINDER...

    this site and I do not and will not condone illegal or dangerous activity.

    I am here to share some stories
    I know that is it.

    If I or any other person refers to anything illegal then it is to do with a story we made up in our head not something we have done or will do.

    If someone does desire to use this information for illegal purposes then that is of there own choice and the totseans group and I take no responsibility for someone elses own stupidity.

    THIS IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
  • Is this post still open. New here and I have some good info to add to story time. Enso if still around please post. I have
  • dreamer123 wrote: »
    Is this post still open. New here and I have some good info to add to story time. Enso if still around please post. I have

    Pm me
  • Got cha, about the gas having moisture. How would i make it more dry? Back in the day, gas used to sting the skin when the hose was pump against it. not anymore. I never dry solvents. Seemed to never make a difference for me before. And Still no idea on why batts arent puddling into bronze? But excipients in pills arent listed, at least the anti ma forumulations anyway.

    Also another thought sorry for multible posts.

    This time addressing the lithium problem as I don't think I addressed it properly before.

    I guess you have been cooling your solvent for bronzing phase haven't you.
    Yes that ice slushy (cold bath) we all know and love so much.

    That might be the reason you are not seeing the lithium actually puddle.

    You see when ever I have told a story using a cold bath the lithium never really "puddles" until after a hot bath.
    Almost instantly after dropping it into the hot bath you should see the lithium puddle up like expected.

    I am guessing the solvent just didn't heat up enough for it to puddle before shaking.
  • enso wrote: »
    Seems there's been an issue with the use of Sodastream bottles, as of late. And one that didn't used to exist. Not sure what changed, but either the heat produced or the lye is now eating through the seal within the first fifteen minutes and sabotaging the reaction. I see that Sodastream sells a separate dishwasher-safe bottle, so perhaps that is the answer? Not sure why this has suddenly decided to happen, though.

    Sorry lobster all the sodastreams I have used to date still work a charm what solvent are you useing and is they are a new model look up any msds ECT you can find and see if they have added anything different?
    ...Rant started...
    Maybe so these beast have become pretty popular and most big company's see METH as the devil... It's not it's people that can't control there shit that ruin it for everyone look at alcohol for example... Plenty of people have ruined there life ECT with alcohol... It is not the drug it's the person.
    Rant over

    joe8567 wrote: »
    enso, thanks for the informative reply. I was just tossing out some things I had read. Anyway the np thing was a comment I read about maybe using some other liquid that was not explosive , they suggested freon ..??
    Oh well I got another question for you. As I was reading your post it mentioned a fire extinguisher story that is not in the post . This is what I was thinking long ago. Has anyone tried doing this in a small F E ? Seems it would hold all the pressure without having to let it out till it was done . Or is there just too much air space in there for this to be feasable . If so could this space be taken up with more NP?
    Oh and yes the RP is my fav. How ever back in the day we made our own PSP and so on . It was complicated and costly and very dangerous to purchase the chems. The feds eventually managed to take some stuff. Sure was a good high though.
    Here is a hoot , I just found a vicks inhaler , the good one, in a old box of stuff I had in closet for decades . I used to enjoy that. My first cook? from Speed made easy and then went on to uncle fester. His PSP recipe is missing a little something that we had to figure out. When we got good at it we turned it blue by running the HCI through a copper fitting . Sky blue happyness.

    One more question about bottles . This I read here is about 100psi ? Is this correct? Soda stream bottles here are rare and only big sized , no 500 ml. I ask because I was thinking of testing some different bottles for pressure ability and want to make sure I test to a proper pressure . What would be the greatest amount it would build up if not vented until end of rxn ?

    I JUST WANT TO CALL BULLSHIT... WHY?

    Ok man I heard the Vicks thing has always been a myth... Something about the old ones only producing l-meth?

    We are after d-meth even if it is that p2p racemic crank rubbish.
    Use your "p2p not psp" to make other drugs.
    (We are not talking game consoles here)
    DO you even know what (RP/I) is seeing though it is your "fav"

    Give it up bro...

    We all started somewhere...

    And anyone knowing what they are talking about is going to pick you up on your lies every time...

    Anyway I will answer your questions.

    I think I mentioned this a couple of posts back so maybe have a read but I will say it again.

    these babys are rated at over 250 psi and the reaction only requires 100 psi.
    That is a bit of room to play if you ask me.

    joe8567 wrote: »
    enso , got one more .

    Back in the day everyone used the quicky ammonia method as it was easy to come by in farm country .

    I always thought that the PSE should have been based before dropping into the rxn since it was in need of it anyway thus making the whole thing work better.

    So my ? is would this shake n bake be better served if an added step was put in of basing the pse ?

    Now myself having never used anything other than purified PSE I do not know what would happen if one based the whole pile of pill crap . would it mess it up ?

    Ive never been in the game but I have done a bit of research and most info in my brain is long forgotten to old age and other things. Just brainstorming some ideas to pass on to others

    You are correct in saying that people used to use anhydrous ammonia from tanks at farms and that is known as the birch method...

    This method we are talking about now is a modified birch...

    There is a few differences and the modified birch can be done in one container instead of multiple which is why some call it the onepot method...

    In this vessel there are multiple rxns happening at once (NAOH does one of the jobs of baseing)
    So I don't see why you would need to base your Suzy pre rxn
    Enso, I would like to take the time to say thank you for a uncocky, very clear, safe (as long as you follow the instructions) write-up. I have successfully read it many times now and by the time I got to the last part always put a positive thought into the ethereal for you. Before I came upon your write up I had read others and even though I was skeptical I read on anyway. Right about the same time in my life I ended up in a hospital with some 3rd degree burns.. it sucked. Whenever i would first read your w/u I was always feeling gun shy about how much pressure i was suppose keep... Flashbacks and so of course when I started out I always ended up with a story that wasnt bad but wasnt good... so I trusted in you and the last 5-6 times I have read you w/u . I read it to the full , cant push in part and just went with it. And the last few times i finished reading yours i would actually have a pretty good story to share myself. Once again thank you. One question though (actually two) When you say you know that your done when after 30-40 seconds of sitting still after a big shake it clears up. As many time as I ve read your w/u it never seems to be the same as the last time I read it and sometimes i read it quick and other times it seems to take forever. How clear are you talking... so clear that i can read the other side of the bottle or just not that skim choco milk color? Last question is Would it behoove me to use (hypothetical) already clean pfed or even better pfed already based and in a np solvent... if you know for sure it makes no difference in the end well then i will leave it alone... if not what are your thoughts on based pfed like a actual birch? Peace

    I'm sorry to hear about your burns... And that's why I am here to teach safe methods that if done correctly this will not happen to you again or hopefully anybody else...

    Yes this is a tried and true METHod I have helped people over team skype ECT and product came up a1 I have no doubts in this METHod story as I myself and a lot of others have completed reading with a great result. But thank you for the positive feedback... Means a lot to people thinking of reading this story for the first time.

    And I mean clear man like you should be able to see through the container quite easily the dark colour should be coming from the lithium in the solvent.

    We want this to be completely "spent" before finishing up the reaction to make sure all of the pse is fully reduced.

    And yes cleaning your pills pre rxn will help but I see no point in basing as I said previously as this is done in the rxn by the NaOh.

    murrple wrote: »
    Hey man... good job with this very clear n concise step by step explanation of this synthesis. I'm still kinda new to story telling, but I got a firm grasp on what's going on... do have one question though... I think it's pretty rhetorical, but I'll ask anyway for future reference... i may have hypothetically put too much sulfer/salt in the bottle for the gassing and didn't notice when it crept it's way up the tube and into the mix... I didn't really notice for like a minute... just thought it was dropping really well and that I needed to remember exactly how my story played out to repeat the process... Yea.... not so much... well I mucked the whole thing... my question would be if there was a way to save it or not... honestly think I put all that work in for nothing, and wasted 3 hrs of my life,

    It might be to late by now but hopefully you haven't thrown this away because there might be a way to save it...

    If you did keep the solvent keep adding little bits of NaOH to it agitate with a glass rod (stir with a glass rod or similar)
    Until you reach 12 ph.

    Then add water bring ph back to 7 with hcl then evaporate water...

    You could always try gasing again after getting the ph up again but pay a bit more attention this time around.
    joe8567 wrote: »
    since soda stream seams to be compromised or so i read , how about a plastic whiskey bottle ? I love whiskey and them bottles are tough. I was just pouring some and thought about it . Another thing , dollar general has these plastic drink bottles by rubbermaid. The kind with the flip lid to pour . but it has a pint sized screw on lid. this thing is tough. Either get another lid for it or screw a fitting into that pour hole and put a valve on it to release pressure. I plan on pressure testing one but art the moment can only get up to 100 psi. got to get bigger pump.

    The ss will work fine I think it's the solvent he is using...

    If not look up the difference between the dishwasher safe ones and the other ones and hit me back up...
    murrple wrote: »
    That was going to be one of my questions about the RV. Is there a way to safely make a way to test the internal pressure of the bottle? I'd like to do a test run on a powerful bottle or something to see what actual psi would need to be reached to make the bottle blow. I have a few other questions 'enso' if you would indulge me..

    There is quite a simple way to test pressure of the ss.

    Go get yourself a pressure dial from your local hardware store the one with the male thread on the bottom.
    Drill a hole in the lid of the ss a bit smaller than the thread and twist it in nice and tight.
    You can also put some hot glue ECT
    This RXN utilizes Li transitioned to its metallic state, which is 8 to 10 time more effective than the traditional Benseker reduction using dissolved Li metal in liquid ammonia.
    @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack

    Haha I was one of the posters that helped get that pressure release working.

    I remember that contraption you are talking about being clear and blue :)... Ring any bells?
    Has anyone tried this with PPA or Ephedrine?
    Ppa doesn't work ephedrine does
    joe8567 wrote: »
    Have not seen enso on here lately. Hope Enso is well . Probably quite busy . Posted a question in the fire extinguisher thread. Maybe someone here has tried that method which to me seems like the best method to use if you want to be a smart fireman . Instead of a 1 LITER which is not to be found , perhaps double up and a 2 liter for better fire protection.
    If any ideas on this please post them in enso fire extinguisher thread so as not to change this thread. I ONLY POSTED HERE BECAUSE NO ANSWER IN OTHER THREAD

    THIS QUESTION IS CLOSED FOR THIS THREAD. PLEASE POST REPLIES IN FIRE EXTINGUISHER THREAD.
    Sorry man been really busy.
    You can but you will need more solvent :)
    joe8567 wrote: »
    Say Enso, this is not exactly on this subject but I would like your opinion since you are full of info that does not get people hurt.
    Long ago The old Lithium thing was very popular here in the states. It is expensive to buy camera batteries. So my thought was that people who wanted that for what ever reason it was , might use sodium metal instead. Now since SM would have a different molecular weight than lithium ( keep in mind I am no chemist , just self taught a little bit) I would think a different ratio of lithium to other ingredient would be in line.
    Any idea how much Sm would be used in place of lithium in the standard method , not the one here. ?
    the SM I thought could be easily and discretely obtained from perhaps melting lye and using a 12 volt battery and jumper cables like a arc welder and popping out the SM from the molten lye. But I long ago forgot what I thought should be used as a rod for the arc. ( not sure where I came up with this idea at )
    I will actually look this up but I'm pretty sure that is not strong enough to reduce pse but I may be wrong
    dean45 wrote: »
    @murrple
    On the old totse2 site a few years ago someone rigged up a presure relief valve with a gauge on it. They put it directly on the lid of the sodastream. Not alot was talked about with it, but as I recall, he would set it and forget it. Someone was also producing LiNH3(4) in a plastic octagonal contraption with some type of water filter. Dont know what happened to that. Lots of good info and posts lost, but im sure a few posters are still around. Quack Quack
    dean45 wrote: »
    The water filter was my idea, anyone wanting to know how to make one pm me. Also anyone that feels the need to add water to RV even though u dont need to but if you myst put it in be for you add your battery strips.and instead of ice and water for cooling bath use snow and muriatic acid and make a slushy it will get as cold as -20 in notime
    Missed people like this one... How you been brother.


    Been good good to be back
    enso wrote: »
    Got cha, about the gas having moisture. How would i make it more dry? Back in the day, gas used to sting the skin when the hose was pump against it. not anymore. I never dry solvents. Seemed to never make a difference for me before. And Still no idea on why batts arent puddling into bronze? But excipients in pills arent listed, at least the anti ma forumulations anyway.

    Also another thought sorry for multible posts.

    This time addressing the lithium problem as I don't think I addressed it properly before.

    I guess you have been cooling your solvent for bronzing phase haven't you.
    Yes that ice slushy (cold bath) we all know and love so much.

    That might be the reason you are not seeing the lithium actually puddle.

    You see when ever I have told a story using a cold bath the lithium never really "puddles" until after a hot bath.
    Almost instantly after dropping it into the hot bath you should see the lithium puddle up like expected.

    I am guessing the solvent just didn't heat up enough for it to puddle before shaking.

    it will puddle when cold....even more so then when hot
  • sodium metal will work even better then lithium...
    .but if u think lithium is unstable then u will love sodium metal. its way more prone to Bursting into flames
  • dean45 wrote: »
    it will puddle when cold....even more so then when hot

    OK first of all fuck you.
    You have no idea what your talking about but yet you think that its a good idea to tell people that know what there talking about that there wrong even though

    1. you probably never even finished highschool let alone a degree in organic chemistry or similar

    2. Have you even reduced a half gram of good gear by this method or any other? Let alone with ice and hot baths? I seriously doubt it.

    3. You obviously haven't used your ice bath very well if it puddles better than if hot. It shouldn't puddle at all,

    You may be getting confused in the fact or something yes cold helps bronze the lithium and as soon as you have enough bronze drop it in your hot bath and it then puddles.

    4. You need to learn some proper punctuation.
    Also for fuck sake use the quote function properly, reading your comments gives anyone with half a brain a headache.

    5. Go huff your raid in a corner.

    If you would like to prove me wrong on the fact go for it.

    But until then I will take you as the retard that thinks his done and knows everything.

    Don't come to my thread telling me I'm wrong without proof.

    People like you are the reason people get hurt.

    You act like you know what you're saying but in fact don't... I hate people like you.

    Rant over.
    If you wanna prove me wrong go for it if not shut the fuck up ask questions and learn.
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