Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story 1.1
Completely updated
Disclaimer
:
The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.
So why am I writing this?
• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…
• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelved (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.
Recommended Materials/Tools:
• 1 box 24-hour Sudafed (2.4g Psuedoeffedrine)
• 90 grams Lye (Sodium Hydroxide –NaOH)
• 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN) or 180 grams Ammonium Sulphate.
• About 100ml of Diethyl Ether (starter fluid)
• About 200ml of Hexane (CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
• 1 "AA" Energizer Advanced Lithium battery
• 2 Pairs of Plyers
• 1 Medicine syringe/ eye dropper
• 1 Bag of Ice
• Pail/Container
• Box of Ziploc Baggies
• 1 500ml SodaStream Bottle
• 1 Roll of Gorilla Duct Tape
• Can of Acetone
• Blowdryer
• Small Pipe Cutter for Batteries
• 4 Coffee Filters
• Paper towels
• A Mason Jar
• A Pill Crusher\Coffee grinder.
• Small glass jar with lid
•Plastic Funnel
• An Evaporation Plate
• Some Dry Epsom
• A Bottle of isopropyl alcohol
If you want to water titrate you will need:
• Muriatic Acid mixed... [4 Parts Water : 1 Part muriatic acid] after being purchased
• About 4 litres of Distilled Water.
If you would like to gas you will need:
•Some table salt (NaCl)
• A bottle of Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)
Notes about ingredients:
• PSE - Pseudoephedrine HCl should be the only active ingredient whenever possible. Also,
the red 30mg tablets are desirable, because they have less gak to remove.
•NH4NO3 - Obtained from instant cold packs. Beware of urea containing packs, they will not
work. If unsure what you have, open the box. Ingredients are printed on each pack. Generics
tend to work the best. Get them from pharmacies or sport/sporting injury areas of big
stores.
• Lithium - Obtained from lithium batteries. Each AA battery contains approximately .94g of Li
metal. Reacts negatively with hydrogen. Sparks on contact with other metals. Can ignite
spontaneously if not properly handled. Should be kept out of open air and away from any
moisture.
• H2SO4 - Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. Marketed as drain cleaner.
The bottle will say "concentrated sulfuric acid" somewhere on it, and should be inside a
sealed bag on the shelf. If you can't find it in the cleaning section, check the plumbing
section.
• Toluene - Flammable. Harmful vapors. Skin and eye irritant. Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. It will be in the paint thinner section.
• NaOH or lye, caustic soda.
Use solid only. Highly corrosive.
Obtained at a big chain home improvement store. Marketed as drain cleaner. also sold in some supermarkets as caustic soda drain cleaner says on the container “perfect for making soap”
•Acetone - Flammable. Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. It will be in the
paint thinner section.
• Methanol or denatured alcohol - flammable. Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. It will be in the paint thinner section.
• MgSO4 - Regular unscented Epsom salt. Obtained from pharmacies or any big store. It will be in the health and beauty section or the pharmacy area.
Notes about gases produced:
•NaOH and NH4NO3 react to produce ammonia (NH3) gas and H2O. Ammonia gas is
corrosive and damaging to soft tissues. The H2O produced is nominal and does not pose a
safety threat.
• NaCl and H2SO4 react to produce hydrogen chloride (HCl) gas. HCl bonds with water in the
atmosphere, producing smoke-like vapors of hydrochloric acid which is corrosive and an
irritant to soft tissues.
Pre-RXN:
Place your dH2O into the refrigerator.
Preparing anhydrous MgSO4 (dry Epsom):
MgSO4 is a desiccant, meaning it absorbs water. It is used to make solvents anhydrous (without water) as well as gases.
Heat your oven to 400F (204C).
• Line your baking dish with aluminum foil. It gets sticky for a while.
• Pour the whole bag of Epsom salt into the dish. Spread evenly and put in oven.
• Bake for approximately 1.5-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until you are left with a very hard, very dry, chalky, white solid.
• Allow to cool, place in a Ziploc bag, place a towel or something over the bag, and crush the MgSO4 with a hammer. Not too large, but not powder.
• Transfer to a new bag without holes and seal.
Preparing anhydrous Diethyl Ether:
• Fill a mason jar 1/4 full with anhydrous MgSO4
• Fill the rest of the way with diethyl ether
• Put on the lid and place in freezer.
Preparing anhydrous hexane:
• Fill a mason jar 1/4 full with anhydrous MgSO4
• Fill the rest of the way with hexane.
• Put on the lid and place in freezer.
Preparing anhydrous acetone:
• Fill a mason jar 1/4 full with anhydrous MgSO4
• Fill the rest of the way with acetone.
• Put on the lid and place in freezer.
Preparing anhydrous methanol:
• Place 5g of anhydrous MgSO4 in a baby food jar.
• Fill the rest of the way with methanol.
• Put on the lid and set aside in a warm place.
(Once the solvent has been dried using MgSO4, it will naturally try to reabsorb the lost moisture by taking it from the atmosphere. Acetone does this rather quickly. Be sure to keep dry solvents in airtight containers.)
Preparing the HCl gas generator:(only if gassing.)
• Rinse and dry the soda bottle and lid.
• Using a drill or utility knife, make a hole in the center of the lid large enough that the
aquarium tubing will fit snugly.
•Cut off around 18in (45cm) of the tubing and attach it to the lid through the hole you made.
(It should be very snug or HCl gas will leak out, and that stuff is pretty nasty.)
• Add 64g NaCl to the bottle and put the lid on.
(I have heard of :bee using damprid instead of salt but I cannot confirm for myself… Water titrating is my thing)
• Set aside for later
RXN Procedure:
1. Heat the Bottom of the Soda Stream bottle with a blowdryer until the glue holding the bottom part to the bottle heats up and you are able to twist the bottom part off of the bottle.
2. Gorilla Tape The Bottom of the Bottle, an about an inch up the side of the bottle, and the seams going down the bottle.
3. Add about 100 ml of Ether and around 200 ml of hexane to a baggie.
4. Water Wash this Fuel Mix twice, and the transfer the fuel to the Soda Stream Bottle.
5. Fill the Pail/Container with Ice about 1/2 way and add a about 100mm of water.
• The colder the better. Some bees use an ice shaver to shave the ice into snow like powder.
• Now put the crushed ice into a pitcher about 3/4 full... then add a couple of inches of water to make a ice bath.
6. Put the SS Bottle with the Fuel into the ice-water bath, and leave it to allow fuel to get cold.
(A good rule of thumb to follow is to put SS Bottle with Fuel in the Freezer about an hour or so before performing the rxn.)
7. When fuel is nice an cold, remove bottle from ice water, but keep it accessible.
8. Crush and Powder the PSE Pills and put the powder in a container or baggie for later.
9. Remove guts from battery and leave them submerged in some fuel.
10. Add 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate or 180 grams of Ammonium Sulphate to the SS Bottle.
11. Add 90 grams naoh (lye) to the SS Bottle.
12. Tear the Li Strip in "stamp" size flat pieces or smaller and add them to Bottle.
13. Add about 5ml distilled water to SS Bottle, quickly screw the cap on, and swirl the bottle to "re-coat" the Li with fuel.
• Cold = Ammonia Gas Condenses to Ammonia Liquid at lower pressures. AN + LYE still react even in the cold temp because of the addition of water.
Therefore, easy to create Ammonia Liquid and start the bronzing quickly.
(This is not needed but is recommended)
14. While the reaction is "Rolling" violently for the first 5-10 minutes, let the pressure in the bottle build until you cannot depress with the "thumb test", but perform small vents as needed.
(Thumb tests are simple.
A: Before starting find the easiest spot to push in with both thumbs remember this spot for later.
B: this is where we will test pressure by pushing with both thumbs.
C: If you are unable to push with both thumbs it's time to release pressure)
15. Depending on the strength of the reaction... you could see initial lithium bronzing within the first 2-3 minutes.
16. When the reaction Starts to slow, let pressure build to your "Thumb Pressure Test" capacity, and then submerge the bottle in the Ice Water Bath and Leave it for about 10-15 minutes or so.
• Keep an eye of the pressure to be safe.
•If your ice bath is not cold enough to quickly slow the reaction, be sure to vent bottle as needed to prevent bottle failure.
17. After 15 minutes, you will probably have at least 1/2 of the Lithium “Bronzed” (Dark Bronze Flakes at this point), and the bottle will be depressurized considerably, and little to no reaction will be happening.
18. Shake the bottle
• If you AN/NAOH Reactants have become big hard clumps at the bottom... Shake the bottle until you break them up.
• Worst comes to worst the reactants will "de-clump" later when we heat and shake...
19. Begin heating the bottle with blowdryer and shaking it, to re-initiate reaction.
20. Perform small vents as needed while raising temperature to get the reaction rolling again.
(As the fuel gets hot, you should see the Li Bronze flakes convert to Gold BB's and/or a Gold puddle.)
21. Once Fuel is Hot and reaction is rolling strong again... Build pressure to limit and submerge into Ice bath one more time for another 10-15 minutes.
(After removing from Ice Bath again, You should have 80%-100% Li Dissolved.)
22. Remove Bottle Cap, add PSE, and Add some recharge Reactants if you like.
• I always add about half of the original amount of AN and NAOH with the PSE.
23. Shake the bottle and you should have black fuel instantly.
(you may know this as “chocolate milk” from my previous posts)
24. Begin heating the Fuel and shaking the bottle.
(At this point it's best to keep the fuel as hot as possible and maintain pressure as high as possible.)
25. Continue Heating and Shaking (small vents as needed) until the fuel goes completely clear within about 15-20 seconds after shaking it, or until you have absolutely no Lithium left at all (Meaning that your lithium losses were too great and you did not have enough to reduce all of the suzy)
• DO NOT get in a hurry. Sometimes this reduction phase can take upto 40 minutes.
(As the saying goes “Great things come to those who wait.”)
Filtering:
( WARNING: This is the most dangerous step in the entire process. You will be exposing molten Li to open air for an extended period of time. Be quick and efficient. Puddle Lithium will ignite if left in open air. Do your best to keep as much of it in the bottle as you can. Some will inevitably make it through. Don't worry. As long as you keep it wet with the solution it won't ignite.)
(This is just a quick, rough filter to separate the solution from the solid ingredients and reduce the risk of fire. A more thorough filter will be performed once the reaction vessel is secured.)
1.. Take a ziploc bag and seal it shut with air trapped inside.
2. Now press firmly with both hands on the front and back of the bag and listen for leaks.
3. Open the bag and line your pitcher with it.
Check another bag for leaks and add a small amount of hexane to it.
(Your filtered crap will go in this bag.)
4. VERY slowly vent all of the pressure from the SS bottle.
5. Using a funnel, filter the solution into the bag inside the pitcher.
6. As soon as all the solution has been retrieved, cap the bottle and place in the freezer.
• This will stop the RXN
(The lid can be used as a makeshift screen to help trap unwanted Lithium and such from getting to the filter. This filter will contain molten Lithium. Be careful! Liquid lithium tends to be more volatile than strips!)
• As soon as used filters are not needed, put them in the bag with the small amount of Hexane.
(Storing/coating the lithium in hexane will keep it from igniting.)
•Make sure to put all the filter papers and anything with stuff on it from inside the bottle into the bag with the hexane and seal it.
•Put it in the freezer as well.
Filtering (after securing lithium).
1. Stuff 2 cotton balls into the neck of your funnel.
2. Place 2 filters into the funnel above the cotton and add 64g of MgSO4.
3. Place 2 more filters on top of the MgSO4.
4. Line your pitcher with another bag and filter the solution into it using the prepared funnel.
5. Repeat 1,2,and 3.
6. Check the pH and be sure it is 13+. If it is below 12.4, base it again by adding NaOH.
• Once the pH is at 13+ re-filter.
• Seal the bag. Discard filter crap.
(It is VERY important that the solution be as basic as possible when the water is added. If the pH is too low (high), the meth freebase will slide back into the water layer and you will throw it out without ever knowing it.)
The solution should be crystal clear, like water. If it is cloudy or you see crud floating in it,
filter it until you don't.
Water washing the solution:
dH2O (distilled water) is used to wash the solution of sulfur impurities.
•These impurities are what give shooters that massive head rush.
(If smoking DON'T skip this or you WILL have at least some brown residue in you're flute)
1. Add ice cold dH2O equal to half the volume of the solution and seal the bag.
2. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds.
3. Allow to separate.
(The top layer will be the freebase solution, bottom is the waste water.)
4. Decant (pour off) the water layer and discard.
• Easy way to do this is simply cut the corner of the bag off and allow the water to drain out, then pinch it shut when it gets to the solution, and then pour solution into a fresh bag.
(Adding water causes the pH to slowly head toward neutral, so best to check that pH again.)
5. Re-base if needed (shouldn't need to).
Repeat 1-5. Another 4 or 5 times
•VERY IMPORTANT: Water wash the fuel a good rule of thumb is to do 4 or 5 very good washes of the fuel or until the fuel barely clouds the water anymore. (This makes a world of difference.)
If you want to water titrate:
1. Save about 25ml of fuel in a separate container to use as "Bring-Back" fuel while titrating.
(You can thank Werner Karl “Heisenberg” for the bring back fuel idea)
2. Add about 15ml of distilled water to the clean fuel.
3. Add Muriatic/water mix SLOWLY (1-3 drops at a time) and shake until you see the fuel go cloudy and the layers have difficulty separating (this indicates the solution has become acidic).
4. Add the "Bring-Back" fuel to raise the PH back to neutral or slightly above.
5. Separate, drain & Collect Water, and Evaporate.
(When water/Meth mix thickens, Pour a splash of dry Acetone on the plate and continue evaporate to crash out the crystals.)
If you want to gas:
1.Add 3 capfuls of H2SO4 to the soda bottle with the NaCl (salt).
2. Quickly screw on the lid tightly. Pinch the hose to prevent gas from escaping.
3. Open just the corner of the bag with the freebase solution and gently squeeze the soda bottle to force the gas into the bag.
(Once there is a good amount in the bag, seal it.)
4. Agitate the solution inside the bag to maximize exposure. The solution will start to become cloudy at first, like milk.
(This is the gas raising the pH of the solution and starting to drop the meth HCl in solid form.)
5. Hit it with the gas again, seal and shake the bag.
(It should start to look like a snow globe in there)
6. Hit it with the gas seal and shake the bag again, allow to separate.
(If solution is still cloudy, continue gassing until it is crystal clear when it separates)
Hint: If the gas starts to sputter out, it can be refreshed by simply adding more NaCl and H2SO4.
7. Stuff 2 cotton balls into the neck of your funnel.
8. Place 2 filters into the funnel above the cotton and add 1/2c (64g) of MgSO4.
9. Place 2 more filters on top of the MgSO4.
Line your pitcher with another bag and filter the solution into it using the prepared funnel.
(The stuff in the filter, that's what all this is for.)
10. Squeeze as much of the solution out of the filter (that's full of good stuff) as you can without ripping it.
11. Twist the top of the filter closed so nothing escapes, grab a towel and fold it lengthwise until it is about the size of your wet dope filter.
12. Roll the filter tightly in the towel and step on it.
(Put all the weight of your heel on the towel to force out remaining solution.)
13. Retrieve the dope from the towel and open the filter. Set it down and allow it to dry.
Scrape off the filter onto something.
Conclusion or not?
This product is completely usable at this point or you can recrystallize to further purify the little crystals and form it into bigger crystals/shards.
Recrystallization:
1.Crush meth into a fine powder.
2. Put it into a little glass jar.
3. Measure out 240ml of your dry methanol and put it in the microwave.
4. Microwave it 10 seconds.
5. Microwave it 10 more seconds.
(Watch for boil over.)
6. Once it is just hot enough to start boiling, remove it from the microwave and add to the jar containing the dope with your medicine syringe/ eye dropper until the dope dissolves.
7. Add hot methanol dropwise until the solution turns clear.
8. Filter out any solids. These are impurities.
Place the lid loosely on the jar to prevent foreign objects and put somewhere warm.
As the solution slowly cools, the meth becomes more and more concentrated in the methanol, making it over saturated.
Crystals then form and grow until all the meth is used, leaving any remaining impurities at surface level or in the remaining methanol.
Don't disturb the solution while the crystals are forming.
(Disturbing the solution breaks the forming crystals apart, forcing them to start over.)
• Disturbed solution = smaller crystals.
•Freezer cooling = small crystals and clean
•Fridge cooling = medium crystals and cleaner
•Room temp cooling = big crystals and even cleaner.
(The slower you cool down the solution the bigger the crystals and cleaner the meth because the when the meth is reconnecting with its mates in there if this happens to quickly impurity can get stuck or ruin the structure of the crystal.)
9. Allow to cool/evap for around 4-6 hours.
Chisel off the crystals and swish the whole thing around to make sure you get everything.
10. Filter out the crystals. Place remaining fluid onto an evaporation tray and evaporate to catch any remaining product that didn't crystallize.
11. Rinse with dry, cold acetone.
12.Allow to dry.
That's all folks
P.s
This is a work in progress and is not completely finished but is still usable(readable for the average bee).
Still need to
• Add some more hints.
• Extra formatting.
• Add some links ect
• Maybe some more pictures if you're lucky.
Thank you for youre patience
Comments
Posting here too in case u can't reply to other one.
Now, here's an easy method to clean a birch or shake n bake. Basically the li(nh3)4 method... When this process is used to make meth, there is often an over cook product, Cyclohexadienyl methylaminopropane, cmp, or the birch by product. This compound is not psychoactive and is a carcinogen. It can be separated from meth by oxidation. In a separate flask, a 1-2% solution of kmno4 is made by mixing w distilled water. Now, but the finished snb product is dissolve in a Liter of water, at least, and stirred until dissolved. Now added drop wise is the permanganate, noticing as each drop is added it changes from that lovely ink purple color to a rusty brown color. Keep adding and stirring until the little drops DO NOT turn brown, but stay purple. This means there is no more oxidation taking place, yay. Now make a lye solution, or u can use nh3, non sudsy. Basify until ph is 12 or more. Add your favorite nonpolar. For this procedure I liked to use hexane, what they sell at Walmart as qd electric cleaner. I usually add at least 100ml first pull, and then 50ml two more times. Now gas your np, observe the counter clockwise rotation of the forming salts as the hcl gas contacts the surface of the liquid. That's what pure dextro chiral molecules do. Now what's happening is the permanganate solution oxidizes the cmp into a ridiculously cumbersome molecule that can't cross the np line no matter how basic u go. Also, nearly forgot, add a drop of sulfuric or acetic acid to the kmno4 solution, the oxidation performs better there. Methamphetamine can't be oxidized by permanganate. The procedure takes as long as an acid base Extraction does. Hope you enjoy.
Note: couple times the dog said maybe pills need to be cleaned and tried to clean precooking acetone alone as pill wash and also did acetone then denatured as pill wash. Not combined one then next. Those batches seemed worse. Once wouldn't even melt. One time pills made everything turn jelly.
A dog being a dog needs humans to help. He is s poor dog so is not doing large quantities. He usually has one 2400 mg box of pseudo. Maybe 2. Any help or advice or sure fire way would be appreciated. You can email also if easier. how do pm on here? Thank you so much. My puppy appreciates you.
***note: I have never participated nor condone the use or making of illegal substances. This is purely research purposes only. All characters are fictional.
I dreamed that "l-ephedrine" will give excellent rezults if it was really dry.. altho dreamland was elsewhers and not a modified birch. But these are only dreams. The nightmares begin when you extract from methyldrene.. and dreamers: supercritical co2 is legal everywhere and is cold and replaces ether in nationally approved tastetests..
Now I can get a 60mg pseudo and 2.5 triprolidine... how to extract it easily? Because the bee method, I cant get vm&p naphtha... and if i use turp method, i cant get mineral turp... do you have a best solution? Or just ignore for shake and bake method? Really dizzy & confuse for 1 month to get it....
Sold at many shops.
You can also order this online.
Usage: spray into carburetor of engine and try starting...
also check my next comment to you.
In this situation though and correct me if I am wrong d-Ephedrine and d-Pseudoephedrine are the active subsatances found in most OTC cold preparations that can be reduced to d-Methamphetamine.
The other two isomers l-Ephedrine and l-Pseudoephedrine, are active as adrenergic decongestants but reduce into the comparatively inactive decongestant l-Methamphetamine?
We simply cannot help you with such lack of information.
We need to know all of the ingredients in the pills not just the actives before we can help you with a cleaning method... and no do not use these as is... triprolidine is an active ingredient and we do not want to reduce it.
Naphtha is simply just zippo lighter fluid or similar brand it is available almost everywhere?
I don't know how this is so hard to get.
You do not need vm&p brand specifically but i recommend doing an evaporation test:
Put a small amount of lighter fluid product on a plate of glass, put it away somewhere and let it dry out.. if it leaves a big amount of residue after it dries, don't use it.
Same goes with turps.
Turps is simply:
denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirits or denatured rectified spirit, is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational drinking of said alcohol. In some cases it is also dyed. Wikipedia
Why make it undrinkable? so they don't have to pay alcohol taxes and can sell it cheaper.
If you are unable to find said items i suggest you try harder.... these items are not hard to find and are not restricted in anyway.
Yes that should work... And the bottom of the T screws into the lid.
Once at the desired pressure then you open the valve to release said pressure.
I also recommend adding a makeshift screen to the bottom of the T so no reactants go up into the T or into the pressure gauge....
Another bonus:
You should be able to safely reuse your fitting.
Just unscrew from the bottle once finished up and put it on the new bottle next time.
ACTIFED RHUME.
active ingredient: 500mg paracetamol/60mg pseudo/2.5mg tripolidine
exipient: Amidon de maïs, Povidone (E1201), Crospovidone (E1202), Stéarique acide (E570), Cellulose microcristalline (E460), Silice (E551), Magnésium stéarate (E572)
Decolgen
Active ingredient: 500mg paracetamol/10mg pseudo/2mg chlorpheniramine maleate
Its for real.. in my country Indonesia... there are so many rules... cannot sell starter fluid, acetone, denatured alcohol, turpentine, vmp naphtha and the pills only 60mg pseudo... and extract pseudo method, almost need vm&p naptha... any clue to solve this?
The rules here in Aus are similar for pse... ( about .5g pse per box)
are all NP solvents banned over there? its weird you cant even get acetone (not an NP though).... acetone is used in so many things and is SOOO useful....
Unless you can get your hands on some nonpolar solvent you pretty much shit outta luck anyway.
What about Hexane?
"Ask for "Spiritus" you'll find it easily everywhere and in most Matahari Supermarket/Hypermart etc it is mineralized and dyed blue. Costs around 10 000 Rp to 12 000 rp /litre in a rectangular plastic container."
Yes English is my native language let me know here the typos are and I will fix them up strait away.
Please be as quick as possible as I only have a limited amount of time to edit the original post.
Thanks
Gumout is banned already... do you have any idea for thia alternative? How about kingsford charcoal? Can i use it? Spiritus is methanol? Yeah i have it already... but cannot get denatured alcohol in here... any idea for the solvent? Really need help... and for the pill, in Indonesia i can only get pills for pseudo 60mg and triprolidine 2.5mg.... please solve my problem
Maybe i think you see at Tokopedia for gumout starter fluid? And it can only buy in Jakarta... And I can get acetone already... Only this item I can get: pills with pseudo 60mg and triprolidine 2.5mg, ammonium nitrate, caustic soda(technical), lithium, sulfuric acid (technical), acetone (technical), toluene (technical), methanol (technical), kingsford charcoal lighter, isopropyl alcohol (technical), xylene (technical).... only this...
Sure am what do you need help with?
Ammonium nitrate, u need 40 milliliters. It's almost exactly the amount necessary for a no burp cook. If you don't have nitrate, sulfate is fine and if you can't look at some goddamn fertilizer to check then go to the OTHER section of your hardware store to get ammonium chloride which is used for other stuff, ask me about tomorrow or later because I can't fucking remember. If you can't GET the chloride salt of ammonia, then take some household cleaning liquid Ammonia which is ammonium hydroxide for us chemists and combine with house holdbleach, collect the "smoke" I'm a trash bag. Yeah, good luck... If you can't do that and all you can get is urea, that is fine, urea works fine, it just requires a little more.
Lye, you can get lye, sodium hydroxide , caustic soda. Use google translate if u are not English, please. It doesn't have to be sodium it can be potassium in fact that is better and if all you can get is calcium hydroxide, aka LIME, it is possible to turn it into sodiu hydroxide. Look it up, the conversion of calcium to sodiu hydroxide. If you can't find it ask me tomorrow I'm too goddamn tired to tell you.
Soda stream bottle, preferably half liter but the liter bottle is ok. Listen people, GET THIS FUCKING BOTTLE. It costs a little, I mean 15 US dollars for the half liter two. (You get two at a time). It is worth every goddamn penny. Every fucking penny. Know this.
One or two lithium aa batteries, not lithium ion, people, but regular lithium aa. Two batteries is better for the first time cook because watching all those bubbles in the bottle is scary and you are likely to burp, losing ammonia gas and thereby fucking yourself out of linh34. The extra lithium strip is for the beginners. When you know your bottles and know your measurements you can go with one. If ou can afford the batteries the get creative.
The non polar solvent of CHOICE is naphtha, or naftha, or nafta, depending on your language. You are goin to fill your soda stream (SS) bottle with anywhere from 2/3 to 3/4 the way with this, your choice on the amount. If you can't get this, you need ether, or similar. Ether is in starter fluid and fuck all that "cleaning" with water bs, all that does is concentrate heptane. ITS U NECESSARY TO WATER TREAT ETHER.
ALCOHOLS ARE NOT NONPOLAR. ALDEHYDES ARE NOT NONPOLAR. KETONES, AKA ACETONE OR METHYL ETHYL Ketone ARE NOT NONPOLAR. You need a solvent that doesn't mix with water and evaporates cleanly .
After the cook you need a bug sprayer, as in pump action thing, I'll explain later...
Salt, table salt, table fucking salt
Sulfuric acid, aka toilet drain opener. It comes in a bottle that's in a bag in most places. Other wise crack your car battery, use an old one fool. Other wise stick with the hydrochloric acid method, meaning don't gas,
Take your half liter SS bottle and pour 40 ml ammonium nitrate or 50ml ammonium sulfate or 70 ml urea, add 60 ml lye (I didn't have scale at the time, and used nitrate salt. The other non nitrate salts are theoretical, so watch your bottles carefully, checking with thumbs to make sure with both hands that you can depress the plastic at all and if not burp the bottle.) then add your NONPOLAR (np) solvent, then add your lithium, two strips (this means two aa batteries) if you are new to this, one if you are a bad mofo ( meaning you let your bottle get to super critical pressure where the gases go liquid), which you previously opened and unraveled in a NONPOLAR solvent, then Add your crushed and powdered pseudoephedrine containing medicine within the range of 2.4 to 3.0 grams. Now twirl your bottle by holding it by the cap, which has just been screwed on tightly , letting it dangle freely, holding by finger(s) and thumb, twist back and forth so as to add a clockwise, counterclockwise rotation while the bottle appears to stand upright even if dangling from your finger and thumb. Bubbles should start to appear. Have some fucking patience. If after twenty minutes the bubbling has stopped, or if you already know this business, twist open the cap and squirt in .20 as in one fifth of a millimeter, of distilled water (ok, it doesn't have to be distilled but remember garbage in, garbage out, meaning whatever shit goes in is what shit comes out). Now close lid, twist again as previously described. Ah, there they are, those furious bubbles. Don't be discouraged. Hold the bottle like a choke victim. Press your thumbs in. Can you depress the bottle any? Good! If not, open the cap a little bit and listen for that tell tale whistle that says to the world "yes! I am making some goddamn meth, so kiss my ass!" Keel this up for a while. The lithium will co true to shrink, and if you are cold enough, up may even see blue coloring. However I expect most of you will see a copper color liquid Mercury appearing metal allow appear, which is li(nh3)4 in its most saturated form. Normally it's a royal blue color, which is common in anhydrous cooking. We chemists call it the birch reduction, so named after Arthur birch for his discovery of the process. It is mostly used for cyclohediene-type co pounds, but by the grace of God works on levo-pseudoephedrine and levo-ephedrine to create d-methyl alpha methyl phenylethylamine, aka meth! Anyways, after 85% or so of the original lithium metal has disappeared and or gone to liquid copper colored metal, then shake the shit out of it! This is when it goes dark or becomes opaque. Put the bottle down, let it sit until it clears, which happens for the top down. Now pick up agai and shake. Put down again, let clear, repeat, put down, repeat, put down repeat, etc... Until the bottle once put down clears I. Thirty seconds or so. Now you have a pretty concentrated solution of methamphetamine base dissolved in the solution. Now it is time to SLOWLY, release the gas within. Now this is ammonia gas so please do this outside. If you have the set up, release into a tube which runs into water or acid so as to completely obliviate all ammonia gas from appearing.
Now once the pressure is equal to normal pressure and with gloves on (nitrile gloves preferably) put a few cotton balls into the mouth of the bottle so as to keep al li(nh3)4 in the bottle and pour the contents through a few coffee filters or a cotton filter into a funnel draining into a water bottle or jar with a little water, like a quarter the way full, already in it, only clear liquid should be going in, landing on top of the water in the new container. Stop when you are ready or the SS bottle is empty of co tents, which ever is first. Close lid on the new container and shake. This traps ammonia gas and other undesirables. Let settle, siphon off the organic layer, aka the top clear liquid, leaving the water behind. Set this In a new dry container. Now you can add hcl acid or hcl gas. I prefer gas. This is done by taking a bug sprayer, as in a pump action bug sprayer which you can get at lowes or your local hardware store, adding table salt and a splash of sulfuric acid. You need a cup of table salt and a teaspoon or more of acid, but not much more. As soon as you see smoke close the pump action lid, pump once, and then grab the nozzle/trigger, hold over the liquid with me base in it and squeeze trigger. The smoke which is hcl gas will immediately turn the meth jet the chloride salt, snowing in a cou terclockwise formation, which is demonstrative of dextro-rotary chemicals, which dextro methamphetamine is. It's why they call it d-meth. And yes, it is made with L-pseudoephedrine or L-ephedrine! So cry no more about this chemical because you have the right starter. Ok? Questions? Oh yeah, filter the now made product swimming in np through another coffee filter, rinse with DRY acetone (This is simply acetone, or even methyl ethyl ketone, that had been treated with calcium chloride [damprid] or Epsom salt that has been dried in an oven, when I say treated I mean this shit has been shoved into the cntak era the acetone came in, lid put on amid shaken), open the filter and dry. THAT IS IT,!!!!, questions? I will gladly and CORRECTLY, answer them
You obviously don't know how to read because this has been through before you fuckwit.
This thread has nothing to do with lithium apart from the introduction.
Suck my dick you faggot bitch you don't know shit and untill you do shut your fucking mouth and move on...
I could sit here and talk to you about ochem all night but there would be completely useless as you don't know what your talking about and I have better things to do in my life.... Eg.... Make real meth!!!
I thought I actually liked you but
I guess I got you wrong....
I tell you how I know that?
First of all your comments here are hard to read and actually give me a head ache to try and read that mess...
How about learn to type and format then come back.
Because I tell you now...
NO1 WANTS TO READ THAT SHIT!!!
If you wrote a study like that at any University and there going to throw it in the bin and ask you to resit primary school writing.
Next time get your facts strait before confronting someone about something they have already answered for!!!!
Also go huff some raid!!!
Also I don't need to prove myself to you I have helped many people here in posts over PM's ect enough to prove I know my shit...
You come in here ranting your unreadable bullshit spamming Multiple posts in a row with your messy shit trying to convince people your smarter than the person who has proved himself in the community and atleast posts neatly and efficiently, and always answers any proper questions with correct answers...
Also you sir are a complete fuck head if you think there are no gaks in pills and obviously have not gone near a reaction in a long time.
I always keep notes on my dreams and am feeling the itch to contribute so if all goes well I'll post my results and find an excuse to use my new usb microscope to document the process
Love the scientific approach and write up Enso, I'm inspired!
AKNF
i also wrote on the enso tek that he steal everything from li tech, and i can provide the prove, since i downloaded the entire 70 plus pages post
plus i have the 12 part videos li sent me because i sent him some sudo... i hear him every once by mail...
good ol tramp from wetdreams befriended me and he trained me on acid cooks, which i prefer over lwr, that still gives amazing dope
however the tetra trap con 120's gives good yeilds and really clean pesudo,and withy pillz i own is a good method
Enso is a LEGEND and his guides are among the most complete and well written you can find. As far as I can make out, he has taken recipes known (to a small circle only I'm guessing, obviously you guys must be SO cool to know the pioneers of meth, THAT is totally outweighing years of organic chemistry education and numerous examples of being able to problem solve when given the information.) and shared them in an as easy to follow and responsible way as possible. Including key safety precautions, tips and acceptable alternatives, along with clear debunking of dangerous misconceptions and rumours.
The clear conclusion is he was born in Kenya, not Hawaii and clearly knows nothing about meth, he's copy-pasting specifically written, well ordered answers to individuals personal questions. Even when those questions are as ill thought out, illogical and/or repetitive as every combo 'contribution' of name-calling and name-dropping (I KNOW, I was there before meth was meth, you don't know cos you weren't there before it was cool, I definitely didn't just read someone else's name on an old webpage with content that looked similar to this site's content...if you're one of those with the reading age of a pretzel choking no-longer-laughing-stock of US presidents with the ambiguous middle initial of W.
I hesitate to use the word in relation to your keyboard spasms, but by your 'logic' is everyone who has written on the Birch Reduction since Arthur Birch a fraud?
You are the worst parts of humanity and the internet floundering under the hilarious misapprehension that you have 'insight' and a cutting intellect. You do not.
A simple example, if Enso still reads and replies to these (to keep others safe, for no reward. Not just building the site, but actually still highly active. The inconsiderate v km No No miprick) and you haven't put him off maintaining it further, a question:
Enso, should i happen to have some vivid dreams on your method 1.1 and document them as I mentioned considering above - write it up and post here with some photos that showed my most relevant stages of the dream, maybe named "The Unofficial Enzo Shake n Bake v1.2: the All Killer No Filler Procedure, how do you think you might react?
Meanwhile trolls (I'm not scrolling to find your names, you know who you are) a small piece of homework - look up the definitions of the word 'community'.
Also watch the TV show with that title. It'll make you a better person. Better than now at least. 0