My 1978 Mustang II restoration project
TheGreenDoctor
Regular
This is a long term work in progress, and this first post has had several edits over its 8+ years existence on a 12 year (and counting) long restoration project as I have had time / seen fit to add notes to. There may be duplication of information through the thread when updates are added as I keep personal text files to track specs that change over time, and all information is pulled from these records.
Sorry this is a bit messy and not formatted too well, I'm not too good at it.
For the past six twelve years, I've been restoring a 1978 Ford Mustang II
a more current photo seen here, The front valance has had the silver paint stripped and has been painted black recently
Engine:
So far, the engine has been rebuilt, It is a Ford 2.3 Bored at least .20 over, and as far as .60 over (can't get a straight answer from the machine shop, or the installer, and there are complicated circumstances surrounding the motor) I've installed a Holley 4160 Carburetor with 14" offset Summit Racing air cleaner and reusable filter, Offenhauser 4bbl intake, upgraded to a ranger roller cam, MSD ignition coil, added a Hedman Hedder, done the exhaust (2 1/4", with Flowtech Warlock muffler) (though after three New England winters it needs to be done again)
Update Jan 2014: Muffler pictured below was installed May 2010 and the exhaust was replaced in aug 2011, while retaining the same muffler]
Update Aug 2015Current engine specs are as follows: ford 2.3, block bored .050 or 060 over, Holley 390CFM carb, Offenhauser dual port 4bbl intake, Boport stage 1.5 cam (no exact duration specs available but it is .436 lift, rpm range 3000 to 6500+) iron head with "big" 1.89" intake and 1.59 exhaust valves with double springs and a little smoothing done in the runners as well as unshrouding the valves. Exhaust ports are bored out from the bottom up to 1 5/16" . The header is from Speedway motors and has 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" stepped primaries into a 3" collector that is reduced down to 2 1/2" all the way to the muffler.
Update Sept 2018 The previous engine started dumping coolant into the pan back in late 2015 so through the first half of 2016 I restored and painted the engine bay and I built a new engine (well, short block) and put the worked over head from the old engine on it as it only had around 4000 miles or so on it. I also replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing at the same time as well as the transmission mount. I also added a Powermaster 150 amp alternator as well as the wiring harness upgrades required for safe operation.
The most current specs as of this year are: 74 Ford 2.3 block bored .030 over, 2.3 Stroker crank (2350CC I think), Holley 4160 390CFM carb with secondary metering block conversion(4150 style), Offenhauser dual port 4bbl intake, Boport stage 1.5 cam (no exact duration specs available but it is .436 lift, rpm range 3000 to 6500+) iron head with "big" 1.89" intake and 1.59" exhaust valves with double springs and a little smoothing done in the runners as well as unshrouding the valves. Esslinger adjustable cam gear and lightened aux shaft gear. Exhaust ports are bored out from the bottom up to 1 5/16" . The header is from Speedway motors and has 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" stepped primaries into a 3" collector that is reduced down to 2 1/2" all the way to a Flowtech Warlock race muffler.
After a week long carb tuning session following the metering block conversion, (works out to around 4.5 hours between road testing and tuning time, plus about 3 hours for the metering block conversion because I cleaned everything while the carb was apart) this engine dynoed at 181 HP to the wheels at the 6000 RPM (Redline I have set as this is a street engine with stock rods, pistons and hardware), and 169 Ft-lbs of tq at 3500 RPM back towards the end of June 2018. Details of the build along with photos are in the thread.
Ignition is an MSD 40th anniversary 6AL box with 6000RPM rev limit, with Pro Billet distributor set at 18* initial and 36* total. Light blue advance springs for all timing in by 3000 RPM. Spark plug gap is set at .040.
It also has a few Esslinger goodies: Adjustable cam gear, Heavy duty timing belt tensioner, billet steel intermediate shaft, and bronze distributor gear. It has a newer radiator and master cylinder, along with most of the brake lines replaced.
I have one of the chrome Ford Racing valve covers on it.
2018 Updated engine bay restoration photo from 2016
And one from this year (2018)
I have a ported head with big valves to go on as a side project as the price I got was too good to pass up. All it needs is a cam
[Update Jan 2012: Back from machine shop Jan 2011; details in thread. Still not installed]
Update Sept 2018 Head was installed years ago, details also in thread.
I've got a new Warlock ready to go on freshly painted with high heat copper paint to try to keep it from rusting as fast.
Update Sept 2018 Muffler installed years ago, see thread.
Interior:
I'm keeping the interior pretty much stock except for a decent sound system and a set of Summit oil pressure and water temp gauges. I plan on changing the head unit at some point to a stock appearing in dash unit as the current system has a dead CD player and no MP3 connectivity, along with me wanting to mount the mint vintage emergency scanner I picked up at a yard sale in its place.
[Update Jan 2012: I installed a Cobra CB radio in July 2011. I am still running the bad head unit. The emergency scanner currently resides in the glovebox]
Update Sept 2018 I installed a RetroSound head unit some time in 2014-2015
and an 8" sub back in late 2016 but it never came up in this thread. I hope to cover this at some point but the sound system is still in progress state. The emergency scanner has been relocated from inside the glove box next to the CB radio.
Body:
The body is in pretty poor shape, with large holes in the quarter panels, and lots of rust poking through in various areas, including a couple spots in the floorboards around the outer drivers and passenger side seat mount holes, and one on the passenger side up near the firewall. I have a new floorboard panel for the drivers side, but haven't ordered one for the passenger side yet.
Update Sept 2018 Bodywork was completed in 2012. As this is a 3 season daily driver in a northern state, there is some new rust repair that will need to be readdressed at some point.
I was also lucky enough to get my hands on an NOS quarter panel for the passenger side, but have had no luck on the drivers side.
A few detailed (but dated) pics here. The body is much worse now.
http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k113/Mark_Taylor87/Car%20Pictures/Tech/Body/
The rear bumper was trashed from an accident, but I was able to get another bumper from a friend of mine so I painted it and installed it
Update Sept 2018 I am i the process of installing a fiberglass tucked bumper. I have no current estimate on when I will install.
[Update Jan 2012: I have floorpans For the drivers side and passenger side. The drivers side was done in mid 2011 sometime, but the passenger side still needs to be done.]
Chassis and Suspension:
The rear suspension has been replaced. New shocks, leaf springs and shackles, However the rear bumper mounts are rotting away and I haven't been able to track down a set yet.
Update Sept 2018 I have good used mounts installed and cut down for the fiberglass tucked bumper/roll pan.
The front end is in poor shape, but I've ordered new upper and lower arms, tie rod ends, bushings, springs and spring cushions, and sway bar end links from Speedway Motors. I got part of the shipment, but some of the parts were out of stock, so I'm still currently waiting on them
[Update Jan 2012: The front suspension has been installed after the catastrophic failure of a suspension arm (details below) in Aug 2011.]
Wheels and Tires
I Have American racing Outlaw II Wheels in the back with Cooper Cobra GT tires in 195/60R14. The fronts are still my snow tires and they are 185/70R14s and are really ugly. I have another pair of the Outlaw II wheels I plan on wrapping in 235/60R14s and putting on the rear while swapping the 195s to the front.
[Update Jan 2012: The car currently has Cooper Cobras in 235/60R14 in the rear, and 195/60R14s in the front as shown below.
Update Sept 2018: The tires were at end of life earlier this year from wear and age as they were from 2009 and also balding. They have been replaced with brand new wheels and tires of identical brands and dimensions.
That's about it for now, but I will try to update this thread as I go along (slowly), and I will try to update this first post with any significant changes when needed.
(previous most recent post 2018)
Yet again, Ive been gone for another year. New engine still holding strong. Back in June, I did a 4150 conversion to the carb and retuned it and redynoed it and got an absolutely ridiculous 181 HP( at 6000 RPM) and 169 Tq to the wheels out of it. I also grenaded the rear end in it, and the stock clutch slips pretty bad. I'm thinking about putting an SVO (turbo) clutch in it. Fixed it and was having a blast with it until about 3 weeks ago when the clutch fork popped off the ball and slid out and it acts almost like it has a hydraulic clutch now
. Since the transmission has to be pulled I figure now is the time to rebuild it as its been seeping more gear oil than last year and randomly popping out of 2nd a lot, and the syncros seem really worn because I need to rev match for 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Ive had a trans rebuild kit on the shelf for several years so it seems like its time to finally use it. Or I could put a T-5 in it and get overdrive but thats expensive.
Sorry this is a bit messy and not formatted too well, I'm not too good at it.
For the past six twelve years, I've been restoring a 1978 Ford Mustang II
a more current photo seen here, The front valance has had the silver paint stripped and has been painted black recently
Engine:
So far, the engine has been rebuilt, It is a Ford 2.3 Bored at least .20 over, and as far as .60 over (can't get a straight answer from the machine shop, or the installer, and there are complicated circumstances surrounding the motor) I've installed a Holley 4160 Carburetor with 14" offset Summit Racing air cleaner and reusable filter, Offenhauser 4bbl intake, upgraded to a ranger roller cam, MSD ignition coil, added a Hedman Hedder, done the exhaust (2 1/4", with Flowtech Warlock muffler) (though after three New England winters it needs to be done again)
Update Jan 2014: Muffler pictured below was installed May 2010 and the exhaust was replaced in aug 2011, while retaining the same muffler]
Update Aug 2015Current engine specs are as follows: ford 2.3, block bored .050 or 060 over, Holley 390CFM carb, Offenhauser dual port 4bbl intake, Boport stage 1.5 cam (no exact duration specs available but it is .436 lift, rpm range 3000 to 6500+) iron head with "big" 1.89" intake and 1.59 exhaust valves with double springs and a little smoothing done in the runners as well as unshrouding the valves. Exhaust ports are bored out from the bottom up to 1 5/16" . The header is from Speedway motors and has 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" stepped primaries into a 3" collector that is reduced down to 2 1/2" all the way to the muffler.
Update Sept 2018 The previous engine started dumping coolant into the pan back in late 2015 so through the first half of 2016 I restored and painted the engine bay and I built a new engine (well, short block) and put the worked over head from the old engine on it as it only had around 4000 miles or so on it. I also replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing at the same time as well as the transmission mount. I also added a Powermaster 150 amp alternator as well as the wiring harness upgrades required for safe operation.
The most current specs as of this year are: 74 Ford 2.3 block bored .030 over, 2.3 Stroker crank (2350CC I think), Holley 4160 390CFM carb with secondary metering block conversion(4150 style), Offenhauser dual port 4bbl intake, Boport stage 1.5 cam (no exact duration specs available but it is .436 lift, rpm range 3000 to 6500+) iron head with "big" 1.89" intake and 1.59" exhaust valves with double springs and a little smoothing done in the runners as well as unshrouding the valves. Esslinger adjustable cam gear and lightened aux shaft gear. Exhaust ports are bored out from the bottom up to 1 5/16" . The header is from Speedway motors and has 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" stepped primaries into a 3" collector that is reduced down to 2 1/2" all the way to a Flowtech Warlock race muffler.
After a week long carb tuning session following the metering block conversion, (works out to around 4.5 hours between road testing and tuning time, plus about 3 hours for the metering block conversion because I cleaned everything while the carb was apart) this engine dynoed at 181 HP to the wheels at the 6000 RPM (Redline I have set as this is a street engine with stock rods, pistons and hardware), and 169 Ft-lbs of tq at 3500 RPM back towards the end of June 2018. Details of the build along with photos are in the thread.
Ignition is an MSD 40th anniversary 6AL box with 6000RPM rev limit, with Pro Billet distributor set at 18* initial and 36* total. Light blue advance springs for all timing in by 3000 RPM. Spark plug gap is set at .040.
It also has a few Esslinger goodies: Adjustable cam gear, Heavy duty timing belt tensioner, billet steel intermediate shaft, and bronze distributor gear. It has a newer radiator and master cylinder, along with most of the brake lines replaced.
I have one of the chrome Ford Racing valve covers on it.
2018 Updated engine bay restoration photo from 2016
And one from this year (2018)
I have a ported head with big valves to go on as a side project as the price I got was too good to pass up. All it needs is a cam
[Update Jan 2012: Back from machine shop Jan 2011; details in thread. Still not installed]
Update Sept 2018 Head was installed years ago, details also in thread.
I've got a new Warlock ready to go on freshly painted with high heat copper paint to try to keep it from rusting as fast.
Update Sept 2018 Muffler installed years ago, see thread.
Interior:
I'm keeping the interior pretty much stock except for a decent sound system and a set of Summit oil pressure and water temp gauges. I plan on changing the head unit at some point to a stock appearing in dash unit as the current system has a dead CD player and no MP3 connectivity, along with me wanting to mount the mint vintage emergency scanner I picked up at a yard sale in its place.
[Update Jan 2012: I installed a Cobra CB radio in July 2011. I am still running the bad head unit. The emergency scanner currently resides in the glovebox]
Update Sept 2018 I installed a RetroSound head unit some time in 2014-2015
and an 8" sub back in late 2016 but it never came up in this thread. I hope to cover this at some point but the sound system is still in progress state. The emergency scanner has been relocated from inside the glove box next to the CB radio.
Body:
The body is in pretty poor shape, with large holes in the quarter panels, and lots of rust poking through in various areas, including a couple spots in the floorboards around the outer drivers and passenger side seat mount holes, and one on the passenger side up near the firewall. I have a new floorboard panel for the drivers side, but haven't ordered one for the passenger side yet.
Update Sept 2018 Bodywork was completed in 2012. As this is a 3 season daily driver in a northern state, there is some new rust repair that will need to be readdressed at some point.
I was also lucky enough to get my hands on an NOS quarter panel for the passenger side, but have had no luck on the drivers side.
A few detailed (but dated) pics here. The body is much worse now.
http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k113/Mark_Taylor87/Car%20Pictures/Tech/Body/
The rear bumper was trashed from an accident, but I was able to get another bumper from a friend of mine so I painted it and installed it
Update Sept 2018 I am i the process of installing a fiberglass tucked bumper. I have no current estimate on when I will install.
[Update Jan 2012: I have floorpans For the drivers side and passenger side. The drivers side was done in mid 2011 sometime, but the passenger side still needs to be done.]
Chassis and Suspension:
The rear suspension has been replaced. New shocks, leaf springs and shackles, However the rear bumper mounts are rotting away and I haven't been able to track down a set yet.
Update Sept 2018 I have good used mounts installed and cut down for the fiberglass tucked bumper/roll pan.
The front end is in poor shape, but I've ordered new upper and lower arms, tie rod ends, bushings, springs and spring cushions, and sway bar end links from Speedway Motors. I got part of the shipment, but some of the parts were out of stock, so I'm still currently waiting on them
[Update Jan 2012: The front suspension has been installed after the catastrophic failure of a suspension arm (details below) in Aug 2011.]
Wheels and Tires
I Have American racing Outlaw II Wheels in the back with Cooper Cobra GT tires in 195/60R14. The fronts are still my snow tires and they are 185/70R14s and are really ugly. I have another pair of the Outlaw II wheels I plan on wrapping in 235/60R14s and putting on the rear while swapping the 195s to the front.
[Update Jan 2012: The car currently has Cooper Cobras in 235/60R14 in the rear, and 195/60R14s in the front as shown below.
Update Sept 2018: The tires were at end of life earlier this year from wear and age as they were from 2009 and also balding. They have been replaced with brand new wheels and tires of identical brands and dimensions.
That's about it for now, but I will try to update this thread as I go along (slowly), and I will try to update this first post with any significant changes when needed.
(previous most recent post 2018)
Yet again, Ive been gone for another year. New engine still holding strong. Back in June, I did a 4150 conversion to the carb and retuned it and redynoed it and got an absolutely ridiculous 181 HP( at 6000 RPM) and 169 Tq to the wheels out of it. I also grenaded the rear end in it, and the stock clutch slips pretty bad. I'm thinking about putting an SVO (turbo) clutch in it. Fixed it and was having a blast with it until about 3 weeks ago when the clutch fork popped off the ball and slid out and it acts almost like it has a hydraulic clutch now
. Since the transmission has to be pulled I figure now is the time to rebuild it as its been seeping more gear oil than last year and randomly popping out of 2nd a lot, and the syncros seem really worn because I need to rev match for 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Ive had a trans rebuild kit on the shelf for several years so it seems like its time to finally use it. Or I could put a T-5 in it and get overdrive but thats expensive.
Comments
Also, its a 390 CFM carburetor. Its one of the old 6299-1 models from the early 80s, and it had never been opened.
Hopefully I will get to doing the sockets, the bumper/leaf spring mounts, and getting the head checked this upcoming week, and hopefully I can get the passenger side floorpan done before first snowfall.
A pic from a recent car show I went to:
[img]http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k113/Mark_Taylor87/2010 Car Shows/2010%20Ford%20Power%20Show%20Mustangs%20Unlimited/MustangsUnlimitedPowerShow001.jpg[/img]
I've been trying to put away more money towards getting the rear quarter panels done, but with bills and what not its been difficult to put much aside.
Also, I got a cam for it. Hopefully I'll have it installed along with the head by the springtime.
I just got the head back from the machine shop. It ended up needing more work than I expected, and they were backlogged with several other projects, and I told them I wasn't in any real hurry, so it took them a decent amount of time. Anyway, 1+ months later
The head was checked for cracks, cleaned, surfaced, valve job, new valve seals, and the new cam was installed, along with new roller followers. The projected swap date is still springtime, but there's a chance it could be a bit sooner. Peak time at work is over, and I have a bit more time to think about my self for a while. I still have a few things to take care of, but its too cold to do any serious work right now other than planning and stocking up on parts.
Well, as the head has been surfcaced now, it would be false economy to start grinding away at it again.
Also, I would get on with the body as fast as you can - its the thing that is going to fall to bits the quickest and it allways seems to be the thing that stops most projects.
You welding yourself? If you are paying labour for welding, its going to cost a bit. If you 'cant weld' just get a decent MIG and have a go. Having no choice but to weld myself taught me to weld. I really enjoy it - unlike woodwork, you can take too much material off as you can allways put it back.
Oh, and props to you. Too many people let good cars die.
Anyway, shes rusting pretty bad from being a 4 season daily driver, but every spring as soon as its warm enough I do a bit of bodywork to fix (hide) all the rust spots. It sucks doing it every year, but that's the price of not having access to good quality paint and supplies, along with being really bad at doing bodywork that can stand up to the elements, although my rear bumper is the best work I've done as it has stood up to 4 winters so far.
I have pretty much all the parts I need to do some serious work (as listed+ more), but I'm really burnt out from my job, and I just don't have the drive to fix her the way she deserves. I hope that the upcoming warm weather of spring and summer gives me the extra oomph I need to get some long overdue work done as there is a major Mustang II Roundup due to happen this summer. Its a considerable distance away from me, but I hope to have her ready. Its 6 months away, but with the weather, realistically I have maybe 3 at best. There's lots of work to do, and very little time to do it. The transmission has developed a bit of a leak and I bought a rebuild kit for it, although its still going strong and would bet on the engine going again before it blows.
I've been beating on it a bit, and I can't resist an empty parking lot with fresh fallen snow in it
The projected timeline on the body is this winter as I want to get one more show season out of it. I did some research a while back and I found that I mounted the carburetor 90* off from how it was intended to be mounted on this intake. After changing it to the intended position (sideways, with the primary fuel bowl towards the valve cover) I have picked up a bit of low end torque (if a four cylinder can be considered "torquey") and I can spin the 235/60R14s and kick out sideways When I get on it from a dead stop. This year, I had her pretty much at top speed for my setup. According to my buddies GPS phone app thing I was going about 123 MPH (showing 115 on the speedo) with just a little bit more to go if I dared to push it (I know, nothing special by today's standards) and with 30+ year old front suspension arms that flake when you tap on them with a wrench, blown out ball joints, and manual steering with a loose rubber steering rag joint (about 30 degrees of play in the steering wheel) not to mention the front end seemed to be lifting about 6-7 inches higher than the stock ride height and hearing my straight piped exhaust screaming at 5400 RPM it was the biggest rush I've ever had just keeping it going straight down the road. It was like the car weighed no more than a couple pounds. Trust me, its nothing like a modern car that drives the same at 120 as it does at 60. I wonder what it'll be like when I put the head on it.
I also picked up a Vintage 1977 Cobra CB radio. It was new in the box, and I just got it mounted up under my dash the other day. It is essentially a brand new radio. I just need to wire it in and get an antenna for it.
Anyway, still trying to find someone with a leakdown tester as I'm still loosing lots of coolant. I have good compression, 175 PSI across the board while hot or cold so no I'm assuming no cracks in the head or block. The oil level is also staying the same so I'm sure its not going into the crank case. all hoses are nice and tight so no leaks there. I'm hoping a leakdown test will tell me something.
btw underseal is very forgiving lol
Also picked up some more sheet metal and a set of subframe connectors.
Incidentally, my transportation problems have been solved so she may be going in for the body work as early as Tuesday of this week!! I plan on spending the next couple days getting her ready to go and getting all the sheet metal and body parts together!!! I have a really busy 2 days ahead of me!!!
IMO I rekon ur dash needs a good spray with some plastic/vinyl spray can in black. Would look slick as hell with a black dash. I'm picking up my freshly built 9 inch LSD diff with new 3.9 gears, so I'm one step closer to getting it on the road!
along with getting the chrome trim removed. Drilling out the screws holding the wheelwell mouldings
on was the worst of it. It took us almost 2 hours to drill out the 16 rusty screws out to remove it.
As planned, on that following Tuesday, I drove it out to the restoration shop, and dropped her off. I'm not used to driving a newer car, and I really miss the II, but I'm still excited to see what she looks like when I get her back.
All the work and effort you've put into the engine gave me a boner.
If you're still around could you post the lift & duration for the cam?
and had done some other D class splicing on the under dash harness. I spent the afternoon cleaning everything up, and moved the acc power wire to the old radio feed. While I had my dash apart, I finally wired in my CB radio, then tucked everything up nicely to where it will no longer hit my feet while driving.
Every time I go to do a simple job, I always seem to find several other problems that need to be fixed before I can continue.