Thanks, When I went back to fix it it looks like it posted ok so I have no idea what happened with it. Also on Friday I was giving a coworker a ride and he said he liked the gforce of acceleration and the way it puts you back in the seat. I haven't really noticed anything impressive but its nice to get feedback like that!!
It's dope man. I had a muscle car once. Ford based. Nothing that nice but let's just say, turbo coupe 5 speed gearing mated to a 8.8" locker with tall gears and high comp pistons and custom ground cams that run hot make a hell of a sled.
It's dope man. I had a muscle car once. Ford based. Nothing that nice but let's just say, turbo coupe 5 speed gearing mated to a 8.8" locker with tall gears and high comp pistons and custom ground cams that run hot make a hell of a sled.
It was an old turbo coupe with the 2.3 replaced with a built 302. I bought it from the guy like that. He tried selling it before but the other buyer went to jail and didn't finish payment. The other guy fucked up the paint job and the rotor. Had to fix that. Only problem ever had with it was a bad starter solenoid. I wish I never got rid of it. Not exactly a muscle car but it sounded and acted like one
It was an old turbo coupe with the 2.3 replaced with a built 302. I bought it from the guy like that. He tried selling it before but the other buyer went to jail and didn't finish payment. The other guy fucked up the paint job and the rotor. Had to fix that. Only problem ever had with it was a bad starter solenoid. I wish I never got rid of it. Not exactly a muscle car but it sounded and acted like one
I had a ford granada 2.3 that had been repowered with 302 windsor. Was a fun car to drive
I've been tooling around on a pos jap econobox special. It will surprise some folks and actually sounds decent for a four banger but meh..... I miss the sled.
I've been tooling around on a pos jap econobox special. It will surprise some folks and actually sounds decent for a four banger but meh..... I miss the sled.
A friend of mine put a 2L GSR turbo engine into a shitty 87 mirage. I kinda found it a little scary because the body strength and weight to power ratio just didn't add up. Was quite an easy conversion as well.
Ahahaha. That's actually pretty dope. I got one in the garage I'm working on too. It's real fucking light. With the motor and transmission out two people can almost carry it.
If you plan on an engine transplant into that mirage I think you'll find 1.6L galant top mount will bolt on to a GSR 2L engine. This slots into the original mirage location without mods. The lower ones are basically close enough. Might pay to check it though because I don't know what the safety standards on vehicle structures are like in your location.
Everthing you get in a 2L GSR Galant turbo is what you got in his mirage. The motor and trans were sourced from the galant.
It was fun to drive, give it that much but It was just gawddamn scary because you felt so vulnerable in it. (Maybe I was a little paranoid at the time because I owned a large vehicle....pussy. :-( )
but I believe it had a stock 302. are you going to modify the hood for intake to breath life into that new carb? will you be placing headers on it? The body looks clean, I hope the chassis is in good condition.
I think the original beige (ford beige; not for that specific car) would be a better color, but that's me. >-
but I believe it had a stock 302. are you going to modify the hood for intake to breath life into that new carb? will you be placing headers on it? The body looks clean, I hope the chassis is in good condition.
I think the original beige (ford beige; not for that specific car) would be a better color, but that's me. >-
but I believe it had a stock 302. are you going to modify the hood for intake to breath life into that new carb? will you be placing headers on it? The body looks clean, I hope the chassis is in good condition.
I think the original beige (ford beige; not for that specific car) would be a better color, but that's me. >-
but I believe it had a stock 302. are you going to modify the hood for intake to breath life into that new carb? will you be placing headers on it? The body looks clean, I hope the chassis is in good condition.
I think the original beige (ford beige; not for that specific car) would be a better color, but that's me. >-
I got a couple email updates for this thread randomly.
I had a Headman on it up until a couple years ago. Also wow, I really need to properly update/completely rewrite the first post in the thread because none of those pictures are representative of what the car is now.
As for adding a hood scoop, probably not in the forseeable future. The body is in good condition as all the holes have been filled in!!
I've heard carburetors refereed to as pots so what's right and wrong in automotive jargon don't mean shit. I realise the US have a different reference to the rest of the world so as far as I'm concerned there is no right or wrong way to identify a specific part of a car. Soooo all good.
Got another random email notification on this thread. Wow, I haven't seen that in ages! A lot happened over the last half year or so. I got into a bad car accident (not with the II) and have been recovering from that. During my recovery I managed to build a new engine for my car (just dove right in with Ford shop manuals and an engine out of a rotted donor II) and restored about 90% of the engine bay.
Here's what the donor engine looked like in the donor car
Here's what it looked like after we got it to my buddies house
During the teardown
freshly rebuilt shortblock
Pulling out my old, coolant drinking engine
some goodies in the pan along with a nice dent against the pickup tube
Finally looking like an engine again with the go fast head on the rebuilt shortblock
First couple coats of Ford Dark Blue engine enamel
After deciding that painting the head blue would be too much I was going to leave it natural but after looking at the surface rust I settled on painting it black
doing final assembly
final mock up to check air cleaner clearance with new carb spacer and I put the header on for looks
The engine bay looked horrible and there was no way I was going to put a nice freshly painted engine into it
Engine bay looking a little better. The transmission also got pulled and a new rubber mount and tailshaft seal were installed along with a through cleaning and a new steering rag joint was installed while I was at it.
Engine almost installed
I also redid a some of the wiring, which included a bit of custom work. the old alternator pigtail connector on the harness side was falling apart and wiring for the external voltage regulator was also corroded and falling apart(charging wires and power feed to main harness popped right off, scary) I installed a 150 amp 3G alternator as well as a dedicated charging circuit and a 150 amp mega fuse to protect it. I also installed a separate 30 amp inline fuse for an audio amplifier feed from the battery. I eliminated the last little bits of the Ford DuraSpark wiring, depinning them from the main harness. I then found identical colored wire and the correct Ford harness terminals and made what looks like a factory connection for the starter solenoid power wire. I then ran new plastic wire loom in the engine bay to neaten up the look of the old dirty brittle crap. With the voltage regulator and the last remnants of the DuraSpark stuff out of the way, I relocated the MSD box from in the battery cooling duct to the drivers side fender well, and it was a perfect fit. No real in progress photos to show as I got too focused on getting the actual work done to stop and take photos. I also reinstalled the wheel well splash shield and reinstalled the chrome wheel well trim.
Engine installed with only tiny things to do before I fired it up for the first time! No video yeat as I haven't uploaded it anywhere yet though but the engine bay is complete and I have around 250 miles on the break in.
Thanks! I was pretty sure that the block would be good as it was coated in a thick protective coat of oil and grease. Despite the car rotting away around it, I figured it would be rebuildable as long as it rotated smoothly and it did. I pulled off the valve cover before removing the engine and the valvetrain looked really good with minimal wear. Optimistic was hoping I could tear it apart to inspect it, clean it up really well and just replace bearings, but the bores were really scuffed (look close at the photo of the almost bare block above) and the crank was toast from a couple of spun bearings. Machine shop went .030 over and put a re indexed crank in for tiny bit of extra stroke. I think it worked out to about 2.4L between the bore and the stroke, but I cant find the measurements I took of my old engine and the new engine.
... And Ive been gone for a while again. An update: I have a couple thousand miles on the engine with no issues. Since its well broken in I took it to a dyno day at a local tuner shop and it made 111HP@6000RPM and 122 Ft-Lbs of torque to the wheels. Not bad for a car that stock was rated at 89 hp and 120 Ft Lbs, and 8 years ago I dynoed the old engine and it made 70 HP and 102 Ft-Lbs to the wheels. I'll take the extra 41 HP and extra 20 Ft-Lbs!!
Yet again, Ive been gone for another year. New engine still holding strong. Back in June, I did a 4150 conversion to the carb and retuned it and redynoed it and got an absolutely ridiculous 181 HP( at 6000 RPM) and 169 Tq to the wheels out of it. I also grenaded the rear end in it, and the stock clutch slips pretty bad. I'm thinking about putting an SVO (turbo) clutch in it. Fixed it and was having a blast with it until about 3 weeks ago when the clutch fork popped off the ball and slid out and it acts almost like it has a hydraulic clutch now . Since the transmission has to be pulled I figure now is the time to rebuild it as its been seeping more gear oil than last year and randomly popping out of 2nd a lot, and the syncros seem really worn because I need to rev match for 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Ive had a trans rebuild kit on the shelf for several years so it seems like its time to finally use it. Or I could put a T-5 in it and get overdrive but thats expensive.
Well, it seems that everyone has lost interest in this thread. I have done a few updates to the first post in the thread to summarize a 12 year build as most of the information in it was out of date, but if no one is interested in following this anymore I may stop bumping it.
Comments
It was fun to drive, give it that much but It was just gawddamn scary because you felt so vulnerable in it. (Maybe I was a little paranoid at the time because I owned a large vehicle....pussy. :-( )
but I believe it had a stock 302. are you going to modify the hood for intake to breath life into that new carb? will you be placing headers on it? The body looks clean, I hope the chassis is in good condition.
I think the original beige (ford beige; not for that specific car) would be a better color, but that's me.
I had a Headman on it up until a couple years ago. Also wow, I really need to properly update/completely rewrite the first post in the thread because none of those pictures are representative of what the car is now.
As for adding a hood scoop, probably not in the forseeable future. The body is in good condition as all the holes have been filled in!!
Nahmsayin?
Ahhh .... good times.
Perhaps I should'a used a mustang for your image theme instead.
Here's what the donor engine looked like in the donor car
Here's what it looked like after we got it to my buddies house
During the teardown
freshly rebuilt shortblock
Pulling out my old, coolant drinking engine
some goodies in the pan along with a nice dent against the pickup tube
Finally looking like an engine again with the go fast head on the rebuilt shortblock
First couple coats of Ford Dark Blue engine enamel
After deciding that painting the head blue would be too much I was going to leave it natural but after looking at the surface rust I settled on painting it black
doing final assembly
final mock up to check air cleaner clearance with new carb spacer and I put the header on for looks
The engine bay looked horrible and there was no way I was going to put a nice freshly painted engine into it
Engine bay looking a little better. The transmission also got pulled and a new rubber mount and tailshaft seal were installed along with a through cleaning and a new steering rag joint was installed while I was at it.
Engine almost installed
I also redid a some of the wiring, which included a bit of custom work. the old alternator pigtail connector on the harness side was falling apart and wiring for the external voltage regulator was also corroded and falling apart(charging wires and power feed to main harness popped right off, scary) I installed a 150 amp 3G alternator as well as a dedicated charging circuit and a 150 amp mega fuse to protect it. I also installed a separate 30 amp inline fuse for an audio amplifier feed from the battery. I eliminated the last little bits of the Ford DuraSpark wiring, depinning them from the main harness. I then found identical colored wire and the correct Ford harness terminals and made what looks like a factory connection for the starter solenoid power wire. I then ran new plastic wire loom in the engine bay to neaten up the look of the old dirty brittle crap. With the voltage regulator and the last remnants of the DuraSpark stuff out of the way, I relocated the MSD box from in the battery cooling duct to the drivers side fender well, and it was a perfect fit. No real in progress photos to show as I got too focused on getting the actual work done to stop and take photos. I also reinstalled the wheel well splash shield and reinstalled the chrome wheel well trim.
Engine installed with only tiny things to do before I fired it up for the first time! No video yeat as I haven't uploaded it anywhere yet though but the engine bay is complete and I have around 250 miles on the break in.
You my friend take optimism to a whole new level. /\
But extremely impressed with the outcome.
How was the bore wear? Did you need to go oversize on the pistons? And are you more cautious about drunken bitches in motorcars.
2. skid out on dry pavement
3. kill children
4. profit