Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story - Page 9 — Totseans

Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story

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  • Quack!

    Well first off, the pressure gauge thing is not necessary, just makes this thing look suspicious. Bad enough you guys are rolling around housing makeshift meft labs in various bottles. Forget that fyre xsting and pressure guague crap.

    Advanced pill polymer matrices. Well originally you beat the pill formulas with pressure. Then they added something to thwart the damn lithium from becoming metallic. Then you guys figured out how to put your pills in after the batteries were broke down. Now they are back to keeping you from breaking the batteries down and adding your pills at the end.

    They have added a pressure sensitive mechanism to the pill binders. It's the only logical explanation. Hence my advisement of a two pot process. One to generate the ammonia gas, which directs into another vessel containing the pills lith and solvent.
    Folks we are back at sqaure one. They ran out of ideas and the times have changed. No one is doing Annie batches anny more because of the zootapheed restrictions. You can bet alot of these I'll are formulatwd for pressure specific applications , not the traditional ones since no one is using them.

  • Also note than nh3 salts are being adultered with calcium and what not. So you will need a new source. It is out there but I will not come tribute the source, as should no one else either.
  • edited October 2017
    Also not chlorinated solvents keep ammonia from forming. Run the solvent thru a chlorine filter
    They also destroy meth whenever solvent has dried from freshly recovered product
  • If you bakers can't leave the sandbee alone, simply break you batt down all the way, make sure no more reaction occurs between naoh and nh3 salt, then add the pse in little bits at a time while swirling or stirring with a long chopstick. Not all at once. You will probably see the milkshake dissapear as quickly as it forms. May also note a new layer fall out as a result of your non pressure techniques. When finished adding, filter then basify with naoh, gass and enioy
  • Wanna know why the ice in the streets sucks?

    Any old temple member will remember hiesen stating he had a new recipe that would change everything. And it would be released if the price was rightm. Well obviously no one has come up with he dough.

    I imagine it involves a two step one pot reaction, in which one would aquire a completely legal salt, convert it to ppa then methylate to ephedrine and straight to reduction via metallic lithium.

    No one is worried about how to make the mefth, finally people are focusing on making the starting feed. Problem is, I believe thier are inconsistencies in the one pot tech they are trying to develope. I believe they have gotten as far as the isopropylbenzylamine product but trying to keep it one pot and can't seem to reach mefth without serious consequences or worse. Very negative side effects.
    Can't go putting a ban on an essential amino acid heh?
    Can't go taking a small count otc decongestant that doesn't do much off the shelf because it makes ppa when pissed on heh? People are working but I seriously doubt you folks will see the recipe in the next 20 years. The mefth game just hit the reset button.
  • daffydumas wrote: »
    Wanna know why the ice in the streets sucks?

    Any old temple member will remember hiesen stating he had a new recipe that would change everything. And it would be released if the price was rightm. Well obviously no one has come up with he dough.

    I imagine it involves a two step one pot reaction, in which one would aquire a completely legal salt, convert it to ppa then methylate to ephedrine and straight to reduction via metallic lithium.

    No one is worried about how to make the mefth, finally people are focusing on making the starting feed. Problem is, I believe thier are inconsistencies in the one pot tech they are trying to develope. I believe they have gotten as far as the isopropylbenzylamine product but trying to keep it one pot and can't seem to reach mefth without serious consequences or worse. Very negative side effects.
    Can't go putting a ban on an essential amino acid heh?
    Can't go taking a small count otc decongestant that doesn't do much off the shelf because it makes ppa when pissed on heh? People are working but I seriously doubt you folks will see the recipe in the next 20 years. The mefth game just hit the reset button.

    A few other members of the hive and totse and I were working with him in a silicon based lithium with is going to be able to protect it from air and h2o while still being able to react.
    You are on the right track with 2 containers but thats all i can say at this time until further studies allow us to release our studies.
    We have had at least some success to say the least but we are hoping for a lot better before we release any literature.
  • enso wrote: »

    Hey, man. I've always been impressed by your write-up (stumbled across it a good while ago on another site), but I do have what seems to me to be a vital question. I've read that using the right amount of Li is extremely important in this reaction, since too little will result in underreduction and too much will result in overreduction. With that in mind, wouldn't two lithium strips be in extreme excess for 2.4-2.8 grams of pseudo? At least in theory? Doing the math with the 2:1 molar ratio, the number I get is less than half a gram or half a strip of Li. Shouldn't the S&B employ the same numbers as a legit birch? Or is there a reason you have to use so much more?

    Hope you don't mind the question. I'm just a clueless fella.

    Thanks man atleast you comment look at the view to comment ratio... Wow.
    I dont mind the question at all man ;)
    that's why I did this...

    But I don't think you are a clueless fella when you are bringing up molar ratios : ) done some organic Chem study have we ; )

    I like that...

    OK so.

    1. what you need to realise is with a traditional birch we are using clean PSE and we are not producing "ammonia gas" we have it at hand.
    also there is a lot less gunk.
    all reasons causing less lose.

    2. Most people that do this method unfortunately don't peel battery's in solvent causing quite abit of degradation of lithium from the start.

    3. There is obviously loses at the start of the reaction while the naoh does it work "basifying" the pse and producing ammiona gas and compressing that "ammiona gas".

    which isn't done in a traditional birch as you would know that's why you go to the trouble of getting "ammonia gas" to begin with.

    4. A lot of people don't hold pressure high enough for long enough while trying to liquefy or "pressurize" the lithium...
    Taking up more time... More time equals more lithium loss...

    There may be a few things I'm missing and sorry for taking so long to reply been pretty full on with study's...

    Currently doing my masters.

    Have you done any study in organic chem?

    Bringing up molar weights got me excited...

    I'm surprised you didn't bring up my NH₄NO₃ (80.04I g/mol) / NaOH (39.997 g/mol) ratio ?

    I have reasoning for that aswell.

    Edit 8/8/16: Removed my quoted comment to fix quote box :)

    First off fellas, you gotta understand that this form of lithium is 8 to 10 times more capable of reducing said stock. Do the math again.

    I don't even know why I am at this board. Nothing happens here or on any other board. It's like talking to yourself almost.

    Chemistry is one part blackboard one part application two parts reluctance and three parts reasoning.

    As we all know, enso is trying to keep this recipe alive, but for what reason, who knows.

    On 2017, the methyl amphetamine situation is almost non existent; some other substance is floating around out there. Containg almost no real amphetamine, if any at all. I'm sure that the government has something to do with this, as the shake and bake was reported to have some nasty side effects, especially in the beginning when it surfaced and near end when it dissapeared.

    On the old temple2 page someone argued of nitrate byproduct poisons that were not a good thing... in the snb. I believe diacetyl argued that his red reduction was safer, and was against the modified birch. Mosta mutagen of some sort, that may effect dna (speculation). Or quite possibly depending on all the different chemicals that we're being chucked in there, along with the possibility of the pharmaceutical companies pill polymer matrix (anti meth formula) being reduced to something deadly or causing severe brain damaging. This explains why cold packs switched formulas in the red white blue, and this go round recipe is calling for sulfate. Obviously someone needs tests run with the sulfate salt for observation.
    Android at the zones had a fizzy lifting section dedicated to the modified birch. Sadly the site mysteriously went down, which is more than coincidental. All these sites were basically trial and error journals tried and true by the people in field, which was a valuable asset for future medicine and chemistry. Unfortunately, only the government has those records now.

    The detailed contribution on behalf of Linh34, and everyone else, was a collective of ideas assumptions facts but ultimately, roulette chemistry. Who knows truly what byproducts were formed and wether they could be removed. Harm reduction was the one thing stressed, but really how much harm was reduced whenever pill polymer exipients do not require to be listed on the label?

    Remember this form of lithium is way more reductive. Meaning anything in there will be reduced. The damn solvent can even be reduced.

    Some things are better left alone.

    I know the original recipe for the modified birch in which the pills are called to be added at end of rxn, originated at the wet dreams forums, from Zac. Everyone over there told him that it wouldn't work and didn't make meth and tried to delete his posts, but he just carried it over to the temple. That was in 2012.
    At one point there were posts on the original #100 write up stating not to shake it at all.

    Uncle festers webpage states his last version of his cookbook is 8.5, which included the shake and break recipe. However I cannot locate even an excerpt from that chapter and def will not purchase a book that doesn't exist. I believe fester is a genius to a degree. Whether he works with the government or not, will be your choice.
    Do not attempt this tek/rocedure, with out knowing serious mental and physical side affects may occur. Leave the chemistry to the real chemists. Besides you don't want to miss your ride. Go to sleep!

    Here is what I will leave you with


    Bees, don't usually bother anyone and they kill them selves before they kill another alone. Bees represent society working together to continue to exist in good health, in an ever changing environment, for a higher end purpose, whatever it may be. Bees are chemistry.

    Wasps, well, it doesn't take much to piss them off. They are the scouts for the bees. They carry a certain charge. They are nature's Defense and protection.

    Moths represent the future, the other side. The purpose. The light.

    "They say sleep is the cousin of death, so my eyes wide open
    Cause a dream is kin to your last breath"- The Game

    Death will come like a thief in the night. God will take his chosen people. The ones who are awake.

  • Justme wrote: »
    Potato wrote: »
    Justme wrote: »
    BACK TO TOPIC:
    Had quite a few dreams lately but was wondering if the half litre ss RV's are better or the 1 litre ones? Dean? Anyone who has an idea?
    500ml works but more likely to spray the user, if using 1 liter, add more fuel, you dont want too much airspace. Also, use gorilla tape on all seams and weak points. Harm reduction.

    -thanks mate!

    Its lost. Its not done, and what your friend smoked was a toxic hot-mess. Its very difficult to recover when it goes wrong. Keep yourself safe, get rid of waste in a manner to avoid fires and harming people. When the solids from the vessel dry, they self ignite very easily. For god sake dont just smoke whatever comes out the bottle...

    ^agreed, just think, if you haven't done the RX right you're just huffing all those nasty chems.

    While I've got your attention potato, I know you can end up with under reacted MA in your dreams BUT is it possible to OVER react the process and end up with shitty product? Reason I ask is because in my last dream while I was sleeping last night, I was having a dream about having finished the shake but having to put it on the bench just sitting there (don't worry it'd stopped rolling) to goto get a bottle of water for the next stages. It was sitting there a while and in my dream the end product was pure white (looked good) but was shit! Would smoke up for five seconds max then nothing. Absolute fail and waste of precious PSE. Did I go to far with the RX and also leaving it sit for an extra 25mins over react the product? I'm not too amateurish at dreaming dreams, just lack the intellectual understanding of some things about it. Plus usually end up with about 3-4 points of MA less than the PSE I put in once bronzed... So if I dream about using two boxes (bit over 1.4g PSE) I usually end up with a little under a G end result. In my dreams though I use 100ml of Xylene as my non polar solvent, 200mls of Shellite (Australia's Naptha I believe) as fuel & caustic soda (98% sodium hydroxide) (can't find lye - can you get it in Oz? )... But they're the only differences to Enso's story and always ends well.
    Potato I'm going to inbox you, hope you don't mind, be sure to check ;)
    Peace and happy dreams!

    No possibility of over reduction of any one chem. To reduce is to take away and you cannot take away what is not there. However you can use all ur metal up due to excessive binders, and believe it or not sharing the bronze will reduce some of the solvent and the salts at the bottom.


  • First off fellas, you gotta understand that this form of lithium is 8 to 10 times more capable of reducing said stock. Do the math again.

    I don't even know why I am at this board. Nothing happens here or on any other board. It's like talking to yourself almost.

    Chemistry is one part blackboard one part application two parts reluctance and three parts reasoning.

    As we all know, enso is trying to keep this recipe alive, but for what reason, who knows.

    On 2017, the methyl amphetamine situation is almost non existent; some other substance is floating around out there. Containg almost no real amphetamine, if any at all. I'm sure that the government has something to do with this, as the shake and bake was reported to have some nasty side effects, especially in the beginning when it surfaced and near end when it dissapeared.

    On the old temple2 page someone argued of nitrate byproduct poisons that were not a good thing... in the snb. I believe diacetyl argued that his red reduction was safer, and was against the modified birch. Mosta mutagen of some sort, that may effect dna (speculation). Or quite possibly depending on all the different chemicals that we're being chucked in there, along with the possibility of the pharmaceutical companies pill polymer matrix (anti meth formula) being reduced to something deadly or causing severe brain damaging. This explains why cold packs switched formulas in the red white blue, and this go round recipe is calling for sulfate. Obviously someone needs tests run with the sulfate salt for observation.
    Android at the zones had a fizzy lifting section dedicated to the modified birch. Sadly the site mysteriously went down, which is more than coincidental. All these sites were basically trial and error journals tried and true by the people in field, which was a valuable asset for future medicine and chemistry. Unfortunately, only the government has those records now.

    The detailed contribution on behalf of Linh34, and everyone else, was a collective of ideas assumptions facts but ultimately, roulette chemistry. Who knows truly what byproducts were formed and wether they could be removed. Harm reduction was the one thing stressed, but really how much harm was reduced whenever pill polymer exipients do not require to be listed on the label?

    Remember this form of lithium is way more reductive. Meaning anything in there will be reduced. The damn solvent can even be reduced.

    Some things are better left alone.

    I know the original recipe for the modified birch in which the pills are called to be added at end of rxn, originated at the wet dreams forums, from Zac. Everyone over there told him that it wouldn't work and didn't make meth and tried to delete his posts, but he just carried it over to the temple. That was in 2012.
    At one point there were posts on the original #100 write up stating not to shake it at all.

    Uncle festers webpage states his last version of his cookbook is 8.5, which included the shake and break recipe. However I cannot locate even an excerpt from that chapter and def will not purchase a book that doesn't exist. I believe fester is a genius to a degree. Whether he works with the government or not, will be your choice.
    Do not attempt this tek/rocedure, with out knowing serious mental and physical side affects may occur. Leave the chemistry to the real chemists. Besides you don't want to miss your ride. Go to sleep!

    Here is what I will leave you with


    Bees, don't usually bother anyone and they kill them selves before they kill another alone. Bees represent society working together to continue to exist in good health, in an ever changing environment, for a higher end purpose, whatever it may be. Bees are chemistry.

    Wasps, well, it doesn't take much to piss them off. They are the scouts for the bees. They carry a certain charge. They are nature's Defense and protection.

    Moths represent the future, the other side. The purpose. The light.

    "They say sleep is the cousin of death, so my eyes wide open
    Cause a dream is kin to your last breath"- The Game

    Death will come like a thief in the night. God will take his chosen people. The ones who are awake.

    Let me start with diacetyl...
    He also admitted that this rxn works but he "rather rp/i"
    Why you may ask?
    Because he was a lying deceiving opiate addicted junkie that scammed people for a fix.
    He was a mod and he got booted from wetdreams for this activity.
    He was only trying to get people to see "his method as stronger/better" because he claimed he "sold meth, rp, i ect and the more people he could "prove legitimacy to" the more he could scam. receive money and never send anything.

    I also have shared multiple other teks so I do not know how I am only trying to keep this alive.
    It is just to put it more simply... more popular. (over 52200 views compared to just over 4200 views for even the fex tek or even lower 990 views for my rp/i method) this proves the popularity of the modified birch in its self.
  • sry my ENG
    Hi enzo, tks so much your knowlege

    hope you can completes print book or ebook ( hope again have many picture because for begginer, amateur and bad english same me... ) :D i have 3 problems ( begginer, amateur and bad E)... pls prints your book, prices not problem...
  • @enso sorry to bother you but would you mind answering a few questions for me? Well this is hypothetically my first story making it alone but let's say I may have hypothetically helped a friend with his story's like 5-6 times in the past. so this would be my 1st story by my self my friend really didn't teach me much and his hypothetically only turned out good sometimes so I don't wanna use his method which is hypothetically https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-shake-n-bake-meth-recipe which I hypothetically think would be garbage and be dirty as hell... Ok first question I was told to hypothetically not let air hit the contents in the bottle after the reaction has started because it will spark and catch fire or blow up. But in your method I have to hypothetically put in the pse after it's already cooked some and if it stops I have to add more lye so is this true or false? cause I'm assuming I would hypothetically take the lid fully off the bottle to be able to use the funnel quickly add what I need to Sorry for the stupid question lol just confused. 2nd question when you said to wash the solvents which one's did you mean? My 3rd question is let's say I hypothetically like to Iv but my fiancee likes to hypothetically smoke it would it hypothetically be possible to finish up with water for half of it and use the muriatic acid for the other half and on to the 4th question which would be a better way to gas it muriatic acid and damprid or muriatic acid and iodized salt? I'm only hypothetically familiar with the salt and muriatic acid method I just learned of the damprid and your water method last night I. Also heard of the sulfuric acid method which I'm definitely going to hypothetically avoid in my story... 5th question hypothetically do i let it air dry or could I wrap it up in about 5 coffee filters and some paper towels and compress it and squeeze the moisture out like I've hypothetically heard of people doing or could that mess it up? Im confident about this the only thing that legitimately hypothetically worries me is where you have to let the pressure build up alot that Id hypothetically let it build to long and something bad happen like yea I can press on the bottle with both thumbs as hard as I can to check the pressure but it still worries me with my first hypothetical story by my self. And with a new method as well but it's detailed and simple enough to hypothetically attempt for my first story and people has had hypothetically good results in their stories so got any hypothetical advice to ensure my story has great success? I'm also definitely hypothetically trying to avoid any loss of any of the yield. Oh one last question I was also told hypothetically you could cut your product by accident while attempting it is this true? and is it possible? If so how? And how to hypothetically avoid it any hypothetical advice hints tips or ticks would be hypothetically greatly appreciated oh sorry one last question the pills how can I tell if they have like one of those blockers or another active ingredient would it be on the box? I've hypothetically seen lots of boxes with not even the active ingredients on it but have the inactive ingredients and which brands to hypothetically avoid and I also hypothetically heard 12 hr is best and I've hypothetically heard people say no that the 24hr is because it last longer so they think hypothetically it's either more pse in it or it can go longer and hypothetically possibly increasing the yield which I hypothetically don't believe the 24hr is best that the 12 hr is and all this is definitely hypothetical questions and advice wanted please and thank you I'm going to hypothetically attempt my story after I get the rest of the supplies I need and hear back from you so hopefully every thing comes together and. It'll be in the next 3-4 days and thank you for this complete hypothetical awesome clean method with such details I'm sure alot of people appreciate it your the best man keep it up and you actually get back to people and don't mind it again and probably have saved many lives and limbs or houses (hypothetically) again keep it up man your doing a great fucking job =)
  • edited November 2017
    xbox2251 wrote: »
    @enso sorry to bother you but would you mind answering a few questions for me?

    Well this is hypothetically my first story making it alone but let's say I may have hypothetically helped a friend with his story's like 5-6 times in the past.

    So this would be my 1st story by my self my friend really didn't teach me much and his hypothetically only turned out good sometimes so I don't wanna use his method which is hypothetically https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-shake-n-bake-meth-recipe which I hypothetically think would be garbage and be dirty as hell...

    Ok first question I was told to hypothetically not let air hit the contents in the bottle after the reaction has started because it will spark and catch fire or blow up. But in your method I have to hypothetically put in the pse after it's already cooked some and if it stops I have to add more lye so is this true or false? cause I'm assuming I would hypothetically take the lid fully off the bottle to be able to use the funnel quickly add what I need to Sorry for the stupid question lol just confused.

    2nd question when you said to wash the solvents which one's did you mean?

    My 3rd question is let's say I hypothetically like to Iv but my fiancee likes to hypothetically smoke it would it hypothetically be possible to finish up with water for half of it and use the muriatic acid for the other half.

    On to the 4th question which would be a better way to gas it muriatic acid and damprid or muriatic acid and iodized salt? I'm only hypothetically familiar with the salt and muriatic acid method I just learned of the damprid and your water method last night
    (I Also heard of the sulfuric acid method which I'm definitely going to hypothetically avoid in my story... )

    5th question hypothetically do i let it air dry or could I wrap it up in about 5 coffee filters and some paper towels and compress it and squeeze the moisture out like I've hypothetically heard of people doing or could that mess it up?

    Im confident about this the only thing that legitimately hypothetically worries me is where you have to let the pressure build up alot that Id hypothetically let it build to long and something bad happen like yea I can press on the bottle with both thumbs as hard as I can to check the pressure but it still worries me with my first hypothetical story by my self.,
    and with a new method as well but it's detailed and simple enough to hypothetically attempt for my first story and people has had hypothetically good results in their stories so got any hypothetical advice to ensure my story has great success?

    I'm also definitely hypothetically trying to avoid any loss of any of the yield.

    Oh one last question I was also told hypothetically you could cut your product by accident while attempting it is this true? and is it possible? If so how? And how to hypothetically avoid it any hypothetical advice hints tips or ticks would be hypothetically greatly appreciated.

    Sorry one last question the pills how can I tell if they have like one of those blockers or another active ingredient would it be on the box? I've hypothetically seen lots of boxes with not even the active ingredients on it but have the inactive ingredients and which brands to hypothetically avoid and I also hypothetically heard 12 hr is best.

    I've hypothetically heard people say no that the 24hr is because it last longer so they think hypothetically it's either more pse in it or it can go longer and hypothetically possibly increasing the yield which I hypothetically don't believe the 24hr is best that the 12 hr is and all this is definitely hypothetical questions and advice wanted please and thank you I'm going to hypothetically attempt my story after I get the rest of the supplies I need and hear back from you so hopefully every thing comes together and. It'll be in the next 3-4 days.

    Thank you for this complete hypothetical awesome clean method with such details I'm sure alot of people appreciate it your the best man keep it up and you actually get back to people and don't mind it again and probably have saved many lives and limbs or houses (hypothetically) again keep it up man your doing a great fucking job =)

    1. Ok first question I was told to hypothetically not let air hit the contents in the bottle after the reaction has started because it will spark and catch fire or blow up. But in your method I have to hypothetically put in the pse after it's already cooked some and if it stops I have to add more lye so is this true or false? cause I'm assuming I would hypothetically take the lid fully off the bottle to be able to use the funnel quickly add what I need to Sorry for the stupid question lol just confused.

    This makes an amazing difference in end product. As long as you give it a swirl before opening to coat lithium in solvent it wont catch fire.
    (solvent protects the lithium from any h2o)


    2. 2nd question when you said to wash the solvents which one's did you mean?

    It is best to wash all solvents but if only washing one i suggest you wash the starter fluid.
    (impurities in the starter fluid tend to make your stuff burn brown with a burn test.)


    3. My 3rd question is let's say I hypothetically like to Iv but my fiancee likes to hypothetically smoke it would it hypothetically be possible to finish up with water for half of it and use the muriatic acid for the other half.

    You could hypothetically split the solvent in half but I am not sure how equal that would be.
    You could also water pull without the water wash then take half of end said product
      * Redissolve in water (you don't need much...) and add solvent * Add NaOh until you get to around 13 ph add more water shake dispose of water * Retest if ph has dropped add more naoh. * Add water shake dispose water. * Repeat as many times as wanted * Water pull again * Give a quick acetone wash to remove surface impurity You can rex from here if wanted to form "shards" and remove further impurity. This will be the smokers gear whats happening here you ask? we are adding naoh until the MA is freebase oil making it no longer soluble in the water and is in the solvent. (being a iv er you know how much meth you can dissolve in a tiny amount of water) So what ever dissolves in the water is impurity. this is why we keep checking ph because if ph drops to much then the MA will be soluble in water again and you will be throwing away product. I hope this makes sense


    On to the 4th question which would be a better way to gas it muriatic acid and damprid or muriatic acid and iodized salt? I'm only hypothetically familiar with the salt and muriatic acid method I just learned of the damprid and your water method last night

    I myself have not used damprid while writing any storys but... I have heard some good things.
    If you are going to gas i suggest using a drying chamber as the gas isn't anhydrous and can eat at your yield dramatically.

    For some reason people get what I say wrong.
    If you IV you can still water pull!!!
    Just don't do the water wash before hand.
    with a water pull there is no chance of losing yield to the dreaded water god.


    5th question hypothetically do i let it air dry or could I wrap it up in about 5 coffee filters and some paper towels and compress it and squeeze the moisture out like I've hypothetically heard of people doing or could that mess it up?

    It will not mess it up but it will not dry completely and you will still need to airdry/blowdry.
    Think of a towel when you twist it and MOST of the water comes out. (not all the liquid comes out.)


    6. Oh one last question I was also told hypothetically you could cut your product by accident while attempting it is this true? and is it possible? If so how? And how to hypothetically avoid it any hypothetical advice hints tips or ticks would be hypothetically greatly appreciated.

    What do you mean by cut? if you mean leave impurities in there that have weight then yes of course just dont do any cleaning to end product


    7. Sorry one last question the pills how can I tell if they have like one of those blockers or another active ingredient would it be on the box? I've hypothetically seen lots of boxes with not even the active ingredients on it but have the inactive ingredients and which brands to hypothetically avoid and I also hypothetically heard 12 hr is best.

    Well you get more from a 24 hour box?
    If anything the actives should be the only thing listed over nonactives as actives are the drugs that effect your body.... non actives are just binders ect and are NON active in the body...
    It all depends where you are from... what brands they have and gaks are mostly area dependent.
    here in Australia 0.5 grams per box is common and getting any higher can be quite hard... and we have to worry about fexofenadine ect in your area you may not.


    I hope this helps let us know how you go as a solo author.

    I also have a few other modified birch writups here you may want to check out
    shake n bake method enso-s story 1.1

    ensos fire extinguisher one pot method story
  • Thanks for getting back to me @enso I have acquired all the needed things for my story I'll post my story as Soon as I hypothetically write it all your hypothetical answers we're flawless thanks a ton
  • edited November 2017
    xbox2251 wrote: »
    Thanks for getting back to me @enso I have acquired all the needed things for my story I'll post my story as Soon as I hypothetically write it all your hypothetical answers we're flawless thanks a ton

    That's fine...
    That's why I'm here after all.

    Just keep in mind the lithium isn't going to stay protected forever be quick and efficient and don't just throw anything in so it splashes up everywhere that's just stupid...

    Maybe I should say be quick and efficient while using common sense.

    Also keep in mind molten lithium tends to be a lot more volatile than regular strip lithium (solid)...
    Be careful when working with this work quickly and efficiently and keep it submerged or coated in solvent as much as possible...

    Working with molten lithium is by far the most dangerous part in this story as if left exposed to air (H2O in the air) for to long or comes in contact with any water it will catch fire...
    As we all know fire is generally a bad thing.... Not to mention when flammable solvent is around...
    Fire plus solvent = more fire or fireball.

    Once you are filtering the solvent from the reactants you want to what we call "secure the lithium"
    This is easy:

    • Have a ziplock bag ready with some solvent in it.

    • Once your solvent has seeped through the filter into the jar quickly twist the top of the filter closed with a few quick twists and a quick squeeze to remove any loose solvent put it in the ziplock bag with the solvent.

    • Squeeze all of the air out of the bag and zip it up.

    • Put this aside your lithium is now secure and ready for disposal at a later time.

    Now continue on to do a few more filters of your solvent and continue on to your post rxn clean or pull.

    Also remember all this isn't as DANGEROUS as the media makes out... If you have common sense (although not so common these days) and can read and read again... Follow all safety precautions you will be fine...

    If your that worried you can keep a bag of Kitty litter at hand (great for smothering chemical fires) and use a gas mask (those fumes can get pretty nasty... Can burn your nostrils)

    Try to understand what is happening when it's happening and things will work out for you... Make a mistake? Don't dwell on it... Learn from it and make sure it doesn't happen again...

    Most importantly safety first before all else...
    Don't go start writing a story when you have been up for 3 weeks and your going to pass out mid story... (May sound stupid but you would be surprised about how many people have told me it's happened to them.)

    Remember safety is about everyone not just yourself...

    Excited to here about your success as a solo author.

    Enso
  • edited November 2017
    To explain to those that don't fully understand what is happening in this rxn.

    For those familiar with the birch reduction this is very similar and is actually known as a modified birch reduction.

    What is happening you ask?

    The reaction
    Well this is also known as a one pot reduction for a good reason...

    We have multiple things happening at once in one container

    • We are creating anhydrous ammonium gas via the NaOH and AN (or AS)
    (This is what most birch runners steal from those big farm tanks... Anhydrous ammonia...)

    • We are also basing the PSE with the NaOH

    • We are also using the pressure and rxn to turn our lithium "molten" (cold helps speed this up) (chucking the vessel in the freezer or a bucket of crushed ice and water"ice slush" will also calm a bratty reaction).

    • We then are solvating the solvent with the "molten lithium" which then reduces the based PSE. (This is why the solvent looks like chocolate milk... Solvated lithium...)

    • The pressure is used to help keep the lithium solvated amongst other things...

    • We let all previous things do their thing and we wait until the lithium only stays solvated for a small amount of time which mean most if not all of the lithium has done it's thing and is "spent"

    Information on the water wash
    • Now onto the next part if you are doing a water wash of your gear you want to make sure the solution stays basic enough or you will be losing product... (While the pH is above 12 it is a freebase oil and is not soluble in water)
    You do this by adding NaOH and agitating (stiring or shaking)

    What are we doing here?
    ° We are removing and impurities which are soluble in water.
    (While the pH is high enough freebase methamphetamine oil is not soluble in water)

    Information on the water pull.
    • If you water pull then when we add the (Muriatic Acid/Hydrochloric acid) and water solution) we are lowering the pH with HCl acid to as close to neutral as possible (around 7 pH)
    ° The methamphetamine HCl now loves water and it immediately crashes over to the water.
    ° The water is evaporated off and we are left with the product.

    Information on gassing
    • If you are set on gasing then we are producing HCl gas. (produced by the mixing of two chemicals to produce a HCl gas)
    Similar to the water pull but not as accurate
    With this METHod we are just lowering the pH untill it crashes out into the solvent and we filter out

    ° This gas is pumped through a seperate sealed container lined with dry Epsom. (This is to make our gas anhydrous)
    ° Which is then pushed through the second tube over your solvent (The solvent should pull it in)
    ° The solvent should now be "snowing"
    We don't want any water around at this stage because when the meth gets low enough pH to crash out into the solvent any H2O around and it's gonna soak it up like a sponge (1-1.5grams per ml) and your yield will drop drastically...

    Information on the acetone wash.
    • Why do an acetone wash?
    ° To remove any surface impurities that are soluble in acetone

    Why use acetone?
    ° Because methamphetamine has a very low solubility in acetone.
    ° This is why we use cold acetone.
    (Because the colder things are the less solubility they have)

    Why do we have to dry our acetone?
    ° Because most OTC/OTS acetone has water mixed in (remember the sponge)
    You put in all this time to write the perfect story why rip out half the pages now?

    Information on recrystallization
    • Why do we recrystallise
    Simple it is to remove impurity from the product and forms those small crystals into larger "shards"

    What is happening when we recrystallise?
    There are two main types of recrystallization.
    Single solvent and duel solvent.
    These do the same thing but duel solvent just leaves more room for the crystals to grow.

    With recrystallization solvent choice is a big one.
    We need a solvent that is very soluble when heated but not so much when cooled. ISO is perfect for this.
    With a duel solvent the second solvent is a solvent with very low solubility (as we know from earlier acetone is a good choice)

    If you can't seem to disolve the crystals any more in the hot iso this generally means what's left undissolved is impurity and you want to remove this.

    Figure 1.
    lKbNe7r8T3.png
    In the picture above it shows how the process works...

    The hexagons are the meth and picture the impurities as a squares.

    The quicker you cool down the solution the quicker the hexagons come back together. but this means it's easier for impurities to get caught in the middle (also ruins the crystal lattice meaning the crystal can no longer grow from that point = smaller less pure crystals

    If you take the time and cool it down slowly the hexagons will have time to work around the squares and form a more pure bigger crystal.

    Here is another picture which may help you understand the principles behind it.

    Figure 1.1
    mqLCZvsNx.jpgAs you can see in this figure the solution was cooled slowly and therefore connected perfectly.
    If this was cooled quickly the C flask of figure 1.1 would look alot more like the the A flask but less impurity caught in the middle.

    Now you ask is this really necessary?
    Well no you can still get high from the smaller crystals but they are less pure and certainly have atleast some impurities.

    On the quest to the most pure (around 99.89%, you cannot get 100%) one could also follow my other removing CMP thread
    (More explained there)
    Followed by 2x duel solvent recrystalliasation with DH20 and acetone.
    Now that's done and a proper pre and post rxn workup the product will be a very high purity at over 99%.
    (Contrary to popular belief most people haven't tried meth with a purity at over 50-60 percent so it's a massive difference)

    Now you ask what's the point in having such a pure product?
    I would say for personal use or if you want to cut it with something more healthier or more to your liking.
    Some people sell this really pure stuff but normally to either
    ° Get a good name for them selves.
    ° Is at that top of the food chain so his clients buying a pounds at a time can easily cut it at 30 to 40 percent with something like msm or similar and people still think he has the best stuff around.

    Other things to note.
    On another note don't cut your shit... You will end up making more in the long run because everyone will want your stuff rather than word getting around your selling cut shit and you get no sales or worse someone will come after you...

    Also don't tell anyone that your an author in person... You just know a guy that can get fire...
    Also don't be stupid... Don't move points and shit keep your circle small with only people you can trust and only sell larger amounts and let them do the dirty work...

    Keep it only within your circle... That way if it gets out you know it was only a select few that could have talked...

    It's easier to figure out and less risky rather than thinking did that crack whore just dog me to the cops or could it have been the homeless guy... fuck it coulda been that Joe guy... you get the point...

    Loyalty isn't as common as it used to be... Never forget there are people out there that will dog to save there own skin or to save going to jail...

    Let them risk the jail time if they want...
  • Hi Enso,
    hypothetically this guy named "Junior" has been following you for a while. had a few success story's. he doesn't know chemistry but has dont alright up until the last few story's. For some reason after the reaction is complete and he filters off the RXN's solvent into a mason jar, he try's to smoke it using table salt + sulferic acid and some reason it just won't take the gas. He's also tried using muriatic and foil and still the same outcome resorting to water titration even though he doesn't want to go that way.. he is very cleanly, using clean things making sure everything is dry and so forth ( i know a lot of factors go into the yeild like humidity, h2o an so forth. is it possible its taking too long too filter the solvent though the coffee filters and the cotton ball stuffed in the funnel? or what do you think it is? thank you.

    PS. he's also not using dry'd epsom salt liner for the gas to go through because he doesn't understand how to go about it.
  • Hi Enso,
    hypothetically this guy named "Junior" has been following you for a while. had a few success story's. he doesn't know chemistry but has dont alright up until the last few story's. For some reason after the reaction is complete and he filters off the RXN's solvent into a mason jar, he try's to smoke it using table salt + sulferic acid and some reason it just won't take the gas. He's also tried using muriatic and foil and still the same outcome resorting to water titration even though he doesn't want to go that way.. he is very cleanly, using clean things making sure everything is dry and so forth ( i know a lot of factors go into the yeild like humidity, h2o an so forth. is it possible its taking too long too filter the solvent though the coffee filters and the cotton ball stuffed in the funnel? or what do you think it is? thank you.

    PS. he's also not using dry'd epsom salt liner for the gas to go through because he doesn't understand how to go about it.

    Warm ur fuel up and it will take the gas
  • edited December 2017
    Just realized that my ammonium nitrate has calcium in it (calcium ammonia nitrate) which definitely screwed up my product. QUESTION ENSO....if you look at the phase diagram of ammonia wouldnt it seems like it becomes liquid at around 9 atm and 25deg C which would aid in freeing the electrons from Li, thus aiding in the reaction. Therefore would you not want to use a NP solvent like naptha to keep temperatures low and pressure high or does it not matter. thanks
  • Hey i like your story it is very entertaining, hypothetically does it matter wether or not you use solid or liquid fertiliser (if so do you need a certain strength or brand?), and do the sudafed normal decongestant tablets still not need cleaning? Thanks :)
  • Also i hypothetically tried it once and it didn't work, i'm thinking maybe they have changed the make up of the pills or something as i thought i did everything right... is there a certain thing you have to do now? I did wait till the lithium was molten before adding the pse and i used sudafed decongestant tablets. Thanks
  • Hello just a couple of questions ...
    1st Ever think of trying this in a thermos ?
    2nd is the one pot method still alive???. I read a comment above that was talking about ((Advanced pill polymer matrices. Well originally you beat the pill formulas with pressure. ))
  • The CAN is fine and wouldn't effect end result @goose
  • @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction
  • ProfMETHod wrote: »
    @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction

    You can use metal RVs who told u you can't? What the fuck u think a fire extinguisher is made of ,
  • edited December 2017
    ProfMETHod wrote: »
    @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction
    Dean wrote:
    You can use metal RVs who told u you can't? What the fuck u think a fire extinguisher is made of ,
    Ok so you can use metal RVs but it strongly depends on what kind of metal it is... For example I wouldn't recommend using aluminium for an RV...
    Also I don't think those thermo bottles are pressure rated anywhere near high enough for something like this ...
    I also read somewhere you shouldn't even put softdrinks in them as the pressure has been known to wreck the seal
  • enso wrote: »
    ProfMETHod wrote: »
    @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction
    Dean wrote:
    You can use metal RVs who told u you can't? What the fuck u think a fire extinguisher is made of ,
    Ok so you can use metal RVs but it strongly depends on what kind of metal it is... For example I wouldn't recommend using aluminium for an RV...
    Also I don't think those thermo bottles are pressure rated anywhere near high enough for something like this ...
    I also read somewhere you shouldn't even put softdrinks in them as the pressure has been known to wreck the seal

    Didn't feel the need to even mention aluminium fire extinguisher i mean is there anyone really dumb enough to put sodium hydroxide in a aluminium rv? I mean if so bet they won't do it again.
  • dean45 wrote: »
    enso wrote: »
    ProfMETHod wrote: »
    @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction
    Dean wrote:
    You can use metal RVs who told u you can't? What the fuck u think a fire extinguisher is made of ,
    Ok so you can use metal RVs but it strongly depends on what kind of metal it is... For example I wouldn't recommend using aluminium for an RV...
    Also I don't think those thermo bottles are pressure rated anywhere near high enough for something like this ...
    I also read somewhere you shouldn't even put softdrinks in them as the pressure has been known to wreck the seal

    Didn't feel the need to even mention aluminium fire extinguisher i mean is there anyone really dumb enough to put sodium hydroxide in a aluminium rv? I mean if so bet they won't do it again.

    Yes I see what you mean...
    But at the same time I made this thread to help in harm reduction so telling someone they can use a metal RV could be easily misinterpreted...

  • edited January 2018
    Test. I was editing a post and its disappeared. ???
  • I have been watching this write up for a year.
  • edited January 2018
    Hello, I would like to ask, because my country is relatively hot, do not sell the start liquid containing ether, I can use other substitutes? If you can I have other ways to contact you? I would like to take a photo to you, because my story has failed, let me very troubled
    enso wrote: »
    enso wrote: »
    ProfMETHod wrote: »
    @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction
    Dean wrote:
    You can use metal RVs who told u you can't? What the fuck u think a fire extinguisher is made of ,
    Ok so you can use metal RVs but it strongly depends on what kind of metal it is... For example I wouldn't recommend using aluminium for an RV...
    Also I don't think those thermo bottles are pressure rated anywhere near high enough for something like this ...
    I also read somewhere you shouldn't even put softdrinks in them as the pressure has been known to wreck the seal

    Didn't feel the need to even mention aluminium fire extinguisher i mean is there anyone really dumb enough to put sodium hydroxide in a aluminium rv? I mean if so bet they won't do it again.

    Yes I see what you mean...
    But at the same time I made this thread to help in harm reduction so telling someone they can use a metal RV could be easily misinterpreted...
    enso wrote: »
    dean45 wrote: »
    enso wrote: »
    ProfMETHod wrote: »
    @mike16735 the one pot method is very much alive. You need to do some research on your pills if you are going yo come here and ask silly questions. Also I don't remember the instructions telling you to use a thermos. You need to learn some very basic chemistry if you think it's ok to use a metal reaction vessel for this reduction
    Dean wrote:
    You can use metal RVs who told u you can't? What the fuck u think a fire extinguisher is made of ,
    Ok so you can use metal RVs but it strongly depends on what kind of metal it is... For example I wouldn't recommend using aluminium for an RV...
    Also I don't think those thermo bottles are pressure rated anywhere near high enough for something like this ...
    I also read somewhere you shouldn't even put softdrinks in them as the pressure has been known to wreck the seal

    Didn't feel the need to even mention aluminium fire extinguisher i mean is there anyone really dumb enough to put sodium hydroxide in a aluminium rv? I mean if so bet they won't do it again.

    Yes I see what you mean...
    But at the same time I made this thread to help in harm reduction so telling someone they can use a metal RV could be e]
    enso wrote: »
    Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story

    Disclaimer:

    The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

    So why am I writing this?

    • To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…

    • To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
    • Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
    • Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
    • Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
    • Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
    • Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
    • Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
    The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
    • If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
    • BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
    • If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
    Here’s what this write up will do for you:
    • Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
    • Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
    • Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
    • Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.



    Recommended Materials/Tools:
    The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient airtight container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equal or better in quality.

    • 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine)
    (Can be Sudafed or any of the generics)
    (Depending on the store and type, costs about $10 - $20)
    • 90 grams Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
    (Get crystals not liquid)
    (DON’T USE DRAINO FFS)
    (Sold as drain cleaner)
    • 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3 – AN)
    (from instant cold packs)
    (Most Instant Ice Compresses now are made with UREA… You need to get the AN.)
    (You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so)
    !!!!! BIG HINT !!!!! (if you find it hard to find you can use AS((Ammonium sulphate)) just at a different ratio and that is (1.1 = 90 grams in this situation) and is easily bought as fertilizer)
    • About 100ml of Dyethel Ether.
    (WASHED Starter Fluid)
    • About 200ml of Hexane.
    (CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
    (I used Naphtha for a while, but it is hard keeping it warm enough.)
    (Google it. Or I can for you http://lmgtfy.com/?q=products+with+Hexane+in+it)
    • isopropanol alcohol
    • 1 Sodastream Plastic Bottle (500ml)
    (can get 3 bottles for $15)
    (I highly recommend these they can withstand a fuck load of pressure, they normally be used to make soda)
    • 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Batteries.
    (Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through)
    • A couple bottles of bottled water
    • Usually Around 30-50 drops of Muriatic Acid Solution 20% Muriatic to 80% Water (also called . hydrochloric acid –HCl)
    • Some Acetone
    (most hardware stores stock it as paint thinner)
    • A pair of PVC Pipe Cutters
    (Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries)
    (hardware store)
    • A couple pairs of plyers
    (One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the center out of the battery)
    • A bunch of coffee filters
    • A couple of cotton balls
    • A blow-dryer
    • A grocery bags to use as a trash bag
    • A few 1 Quart ziplock baggies (I heard slide seals are great)
    • 2 Eye Droppers
    • Something to test PH
    (Ph strips for a pool work wonders)
    • A Mason Jar
    • A sewing needle
    • A plate to use as an evaporation plate
    • A Plastic Funnel
    • A blender
    • 1/4 Cup measuring cup
    • Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)
    (I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia. IT . SMELLS REALLY BAD.)
    • Honestly, use common sense, do not store your lithium in or around any water or go doing this outdoors in the rain that’s just stupid. You will catch fire, Please, safety first.

    I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of things to get up front, but don’t get discouraged. It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $500 a gram where I’m from, so you will have about $750 to $1000 street value worth of product for each cook. This bee thinks that’s is a pretty good Return on Investment.

    OK, Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPE” of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy. Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start. This process is EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing.

    Basic Procedure Outline:
    1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an Hour or 2.
    2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars
    3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full seal them up with the lid and place them both in the freezer
    4. Make sure your Sodawater bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry.

    5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily organized and accessible in the work area.
    6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.
    7. Measure out 90 grams of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.
    8. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 60 grams or 90 grams of the AS put it into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid.
    9. Pour your Hexane into a plastic baggie and seal, and Put it aside for the next step
    12. Removing Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:
    a. Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers
    b. Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing
    Hints: (Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the inside of the battery as much as you can.
    (You could always use a steak knife or something sharp to cut around the battery then just pull . apart)
    c. Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:
    • Tightly hold the second end of the battery.
    • Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through.
    • While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery.
    • Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing.
    • Place the center directly into the Hexane in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible.
    • Repeat this process with the second battery.
    • Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it.

    13. Add the Tupperware container of AN or AS to the RV using the funnel.
    14. Add the Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel.
    15. Add the Dyethel Ether to the RV using the funnel.
    16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery insides:
    • Open the Ziploc baggie containing the solvent and the battery insides.
    • Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery insides while keeping them submerged the entire time
    • Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the black and shiny silver strip)
    • Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery insides into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)
    • Repeat the process for the 2nd roll of insides.
    • Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV. (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)
    • Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV.
    17. Pour the fuel from the Ziploc bag into the RV using the funnel.
    18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV.
    19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together and initiate reaction…
    20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV.
    21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure.
    22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and remember where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook.

    23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant pressure relief:
    • These Sodastream bottles are really strong and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing (used for carbonation of liquids to make softdrink) , so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together.
    • The first pressure release will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time.
    • After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE.

    24. When pressure reaches the threshold, release the pressure in the reaction vessel (soda stream bottle).
    • Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressure escape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap.
    • There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV… this is a Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting.
    • You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want.

    25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well.
    • If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either releasing the pressure too early, too often, or both. No big deal, Just be observant and learn.

    26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process.

    27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… Kinda hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze
    • The color in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles.
    28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap

    29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding a little bit more lye and AN (or SA) to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strong.
    30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV.
    31. Shake the hell out of the bottle for about 10 seconds.
    32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes.
    33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)
    • It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li.
    • You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles.
    • This color change will likely happen many times.
    • Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…
    34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45 seconds, your cook is complete.
    • You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze.
    • If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time.
    35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure.
    36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters.
    37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.
    • Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.
    • As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.
    • As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.
    • Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar.
    • Once the filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters.
    • Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them.

    38. Dump the contents of the reaction vessel into the same baggie with the rest of the reactants from the funnel, add a little clean fuel to this baggie, seal the baggie, and shake it around for 5 or 10 minutes to get as much of the trapped meth out of the reactants as possible.
    39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.


    Water Pull
    • If you want to do gas Titration, please do it. Water pull is what I like.
    •If you want to gas I will add it to the end of this write up.

    40. Add an equal amount of cold water to the fuel in the Mason jar, put the cap on securely, and shake the fuck out of it for about 3-5 minutes to wash the fuel and remove certain impurities.
    • Do not do this water cleaning if you are going to bang your dope as the sulfur impurities that you are washing away are the very things that provide that great fucking initial rush that takes your head outta this world when you get ahold of some good Banger’s Dope.

    41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack.
    42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal.
    43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel.
    44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time.

    45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziploc baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
    46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute.
    47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH
    • Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer

    48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
    • Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)
    • When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop
    (It’s very easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well)
    (I want you all to do this part well so you can join me in the quest for waterpulling)

    49. Let layers settle and separate, use a needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water solution onto your evaporation plate.
    (Pyrex dish if you like)
    50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar.
    • Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate.

    51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate.
    52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate.
    53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile.
    54. You can abuse as you wish at this point (But this is dirty dope, and I advise you clean it up)
    • The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle.
    • You can continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like,
    (not necessary, but I would recommend it)


    Acetone Wash

    55. Allow meth to completely dry.
    56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass
    57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…

    58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities
    a. Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth

    59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass


    ReCrystalization

    60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass

    61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling

    62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass
    a. Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
    b. Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity
    c. Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass

    63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.

    64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate
    a. Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals
    b. Fridge = longer & bigger crystals
    c. Room temp = longest & biggest shards

    65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing

    66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…

    • You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.

    …..That’s all folks…..
    Next story: ensos one pot fire extinguisher METHod.
    Followed by: RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way.

    Edit : just some formatting


    Hello, I would like to ask, because my country is relatively hot, do not sell the start liquid containing ether, I can use other substitutes? If you can I have other ways to contact you? I would like to show you directly the material used in my story is feasible, because my story has failed, let me very troubled
  • hey to all, here is neuromante999 from totse2
    your writeup was wrote from Li, you copied the same words
    i still have the over 100 pagse thread, and since i shipped good ol LI, i have a video splitted in 12 files of the entire cook
  • i shipped 2 packs of pillz to LI and je mak)) (ì
  • @enso: i was at the hive, synthetikal, all wetdreams incarnation and the collective
    if you was an active there you'll know for sure what the other like geez, tramp(rip bob queenbee) ware etc
    they consider shake and fake a shit, especially when you just gup chucked pillz and you'll had a product tainted with cmp
  • What's up dude!! How have you been? I just realized that was you! I just spent the last two days basking someone who was trying to claim he was somebody else and as soon as I got word of I trashed his ass. You still in Italy, neuroma nte? My computer keeps spell checking me on your name. I say keeps bc I sent you a pm.. See you there and glad our old group is returning
  • Hey neuromante, send the original copy from li(nh)34 on here so he gets his proper respect, not this Enso faggot. He took what li wrote and added some weird shirt about buckets! It gets worse. Idk if people have values anymore and then you came along and saved me from losing hope. And where is li?
  • i hear li every once on email or via Google hangouts
    i also remain in contact with hotdogfrenchfries, in real life is an IT genius, he have a bunch of money, went to
    my house 2 years ago in italy.
    yea im still here, but maybe in 2018 will come to British Columbia
  • How do I go on about remove Acetaminophen from my PSE?
  • Crush pills, add methanol, filter, off the particulates, keep liquid. Dry the alcohol, collect white crusty crystals that form. But honestly, it really doesn't matter if it's in there if you do a shake and bake.
  • Neuro! Hey bud, spent the last two nights no sleep and cramming hardcore organic chem via sciencemadness. The library there is fucking awesome. There's a way to make meth from ephedrine using fucking zinc dust and hcl, but u have to chlorinate the ephedrine first, I think, which isn't that hard to do, also learned ammonia isn't the only thing lithium or sodium, or calcium or even fucking magnesium dissolves in! You can use amines as a solvent, ethylenediamine, methylamine, which is easy to make from formaldehyde and ammonia. I was blown away at the idea of using calcium hexa amine as a reducing agent and then learned about Raney nickel, hydro halogen substitutions, besides HI... Oh. I meant to say I forgot all about hotdogfrenchfries. That's so cool you met up with him in real life. I was sitting in the can at the time I'm sure. I'm really curious about electro reduction right now, and I'm still tweaking. It's still Tuesday for me although it just technically became Friday in reality. I've still got the touch. When I learn this shit, and see it firsthand, I'll do my best to explain it tirelessly. If anyone has a question or three fire em my way I'll answer as soon as I can. Sometimes I'm working on something so can't get to the computer, but I WILL answer you. No question is stupid unless you don't ask, so don't feel like I would ever judge you based on your questions or spelling or grammar or whatever the fuck that fake people like Enso (I will forgive him when he apologizes, but he cowered away from this site once a few of us like you, neuromante and dean45 from the golden days of yore came back and independently showed how he was a little plagiarizer and respect demander but not earner. Alright, I've reached the point of I think I can sleep. God bless y'all, all yall
  • Oh, and neuro, you seen I accidentally found li's extremely detailed method? As soon as I found out how to get it on here, comically it was by doing what I accused Enso of doing, I copy/pasted the thing from my gmail account, but I put li(nh3)4 as author. Tell him to get on here, or if you can pm me his email or give him mine, it's [email protected] I kept that simple. He's the only person I've ever told my real name to on these sites where confessions of awesome dreams occur. I'm confident though that the words on this forum will not be used against me in court bc when my bust happened, dea and all, they didn't have shit to say about my internet sojourns. Alright, goodnight y'all and to all a goodnight! Times three
  • Great write up enzo. This may have been asked before but is there an alternative you can use instead of the diethyl ether? Distillation equipment to extract it from starting fluid is quite hard to get in oz. I’ve read that alternative solvents such as xylene or naphtha may also work? If so would this affect the ratios at all?
  • For the guy who asked last question with oz as locale, look in the auto parts store or auto cleaning store for a compound called "hexane" or isohexane. These are every bit the same in behavior as ether, but they hold more alkaloids than ether can, even hot ether vs colder hexane. It will likely come in a can like a spray paint might look to appear, or the starting fluid w the ether heptane mix. Funny thing about "ether" when people are "extracting" it from the starter fluids is that upon mixing w water to "clean and separate" the ether all that is really being done is a small (like 7%) amount of the diethyl ether is dissolved in the water where the heptane remains completely nonpolar. While this does enhance efficacy of solvents' hold on solutes it's an unnecessary trashing of tools and time. Toluene or xylene? Can't get either? Well, no problem, naphtha works wonders and is available in lighter fluids for zippos. Check ingredients on back and likely they won't say "naphtha" but will say, need to at least say "light petroleum distillates" which translates to naphtha, benzene, toluene, and perhaps xylene, though imho xylene ain't light. Dimethylbenzene, that's xylene. Toluene is the best solvent for meth extraction as the adage "like attracts like" applies to no other science as well as chemistry and toluene has a more common name in the labs where it's known as methylbenzene. Xylene is dimethylbenzene and there are at least two kinds, or tho and meta. Hexane is what u really want, get to your auto department or store and hunt thru ingredients of electric cleaners. Good luck. Oh yeah, btw don't be the fool to use acetone as a np solvent. It isn't np, not really. It mixes in all percentages w water and when it has water in it it has no place in the meth lab. Acetone is a ketone also, which means it's got a lone oxygen ready for an angry, lonely electron to snatch away from the birch. Remember that ketones and aldehydes will hydrogenate before the alcohols or amines do.
  • Hello, you are looking for advice. 24 tablets with 30 mg pseudoephedrine. How much do I need exactly the amount of individual substances (Cyclohexane p.a. can be? Ammonium nitrate p.a. ...)? What bottle to do? 0.5l or 1l? Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid is the same?) Is sold 32% what ratio of acid to water ratio? how much acid to 100ml of water? Someone would not be kind enough to do it step by step, I'm not a jerk. I cooked pervitin, the old method already at the age of 15. Thank you for your a
  • If this is a serious way. Smokeable material will come out of it. After that I will write the best story of all. I come from a country that has one of the longest and most extensive traditions in meth production in the world. Today I'm going to buy all the raw materials. I'd love to confirm your use. I have been using Meth since 15, I'm mostly smoking. Never intravenously. I have all of my teeth as a big exception, and I have recently made progress and a great discovery in the care of teeth. I've had big problems, I've all cured them myself, Pervitin teeth do not hurt! Destruction is the stupidity of users. I am fully aware of the danger of this, especially when I do it for the first time. I'm a young healthy man who would be very unhappy to get burned. I'm thinking about making, through a wooden board with hand holes, and the eyes covered with plexiglass. The pressure gauge on the photo, it occurred to me first thing that would be good. I'm not afraid of it. If this works, then I am very grateful and committed.
  • I will attemp to modify typical shake and bake(its actual chemical reaction name is "Lithium Amide" and discovered around 1980 wonder why they was hiding the invention so many years )
    https://patents.google.com/patent/US6756024

    I have more than 200 batches under my belt and after alot of study and expiriance i belive shake and bake is underestimated has great potential let me explain

    1)Exceptionaly strong botytle from DIY $20 can take insane amount of pressure
    (In my expiriance most typical bottles does not blow up they just rupture in bottom witch result in low yield and less potent stuff except gatorate bottle which blow up)

    2) 50g Pseudoephedrine Freebase in Non-Polar solvent ready and wait in separate container

    3)I Solvate lithium with usual way NH4NO3/NAoH bubble throu solvent (diethyl ether )untill100% Bronze and make sure i have ''deep blue soup'' or ''Deep black soup" (Depends from solvent used .Naptha gives deep black color and gives amazing meth but takes ages to get lithium gold)

    4)I will add the other part of Solvent/Pseudoephedrine freebase 50g slowly give em time to react swirl shake and watch closely the color of solvent make sure blueness hold

    Im ultilizing the method like that because

    1)im using Pseudo Freebase soluble in solvent so the electrons manipulate directly the -OH group on molecule I Pseudo in salt form(HCL) is limiting the reaction to small batches

    2)Using 2:1 Li/Pse Freebase ratio (2*6.941):166 instead HCL needs 3:1 ratio(2*6.941):202 and if Pseudo HCL is pure if pills just crushed need alot more than 3:1
    NOTE: i made a small adjustment in my own ratio because NH4NO3+NAOH generates its own H20

    3)The Hcl requires time to base and more NAOH which generates more heat and sometimes can tear apart your pseudoephedrine molecule

    The only thing worrys me is if i need Protonation in such big reductions because H+ needed to complete the molecule is not enough from NH4NO3+NAoH added early in reaction.I know enzo and some others know what im talking about and info is appriciated

  • edited March 2018
    Ok I'm going to explain my story and need help I've been reading these stories on here for a few days now to better my own but would like advice. My story goes with a 20 oz coke bottle ( I see everyone uses sodastream bottles but not planning to use one at this time) , I add these ingredients in this order. Coleman ,1 lith strip , 1/2 cup cold pack, 1/2 cup lye then my pseudo. And shake. ( I see everyone waits to add there pseudo why is that does it help?)when it is done I gas it back. The problems I'm having is not getting a lot of product back. I think one issue is not enough pressure I burp too often. And another is when it doesn't roll hard in the beginning I add water.
    Should I use starting fluid? My Coleman has a blue tent to it and not sure that is good. Also I think another problem is not allowing heat to the cook and when I gas. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks guys, one last thing I'm planning on doing a story tonight with 2 lith strips and a altered about of lye and cold pack any advice on ratios
  • arkoz wrote: »
    I will attemp to modify typical shake and bake(its actual chemical reaction name is "Lithium Amide" and discovered around 1980 wonder why they was hiding the invention so many years )
    https://patents.google.com/patent/US6756024

    I have more than 200 batches under my belt and after alot of study and expiriance i belive shake and bake is underestimated has great potential let me explain

    1)Exceptionaly strong botytle from DIY $20 can take insane amount of pressure
    (In my expiriance most typical bottles does not blow up they just rupture in bottom witch result in low yield and less potent stuff except gatorate bottle which blow up)

    2) 50g Pseudoephedrine Freebase in Non-Polar solvent ready and wait in separate container

    3)I Solvate lithium with usual way NH4NO3/NAoH bubble throu solvent (diethyl ether )untill100% Bronze and make sure i have ''deep blue soup'' or ''Deep black soup" (Depends from solvent used .Naptha gives deep black color and gives amazing meth but takes ages to get lithium gold)

    4)I will add the other part of Solvent/Pseudoephedrine freebase 50g slowly give em time to react swirl shake and watch closely the color of solvent make sure blueness hold

    Im ultilizing the method like that because

    1)im using Pseudo Freebase soluble in solvent so the electrons manipulate directly the -OH group on molecule I Pseudo in salt form(HCL) is limiting the reaction to small batches

    2)Using 2:1 Li/Pse Freebase ratio (2*6.941):166 instead HCL needs 3:1 ratio(2*6.941):202 and if Pseudo HCL is pure if pills just crushed need alot more than 3:1
    NOTE: i made a small adjustment in my own ratio because NH4NO3+NAOH generates its own H20

    3)The Hcl requires time to base and more NAOH which generates more heat and sometimes can tear apart your pseudoephedrine molecule

    The only thing worrys me is if i need Protonation in such big reductions because H+ needed to complete the molecule is not enough from NH4NO3+NAoH added early in reaction.I know enzo and some others know what im talking about and info is appriciated

    Well 1st off it was discovered long before 1980 it was around back in world war 2 ,aka Nazi dope. You should study more
  • tweaker95 wrote: »
    Ok I'm going to explain my story and need help I've been reading these stories on here for a few days now to better my own but would like advice. My story goes with a 20 oz coke bottle ( I see everyone uses sodastream bottles but not planning to use one at this time) , I add these ingredients in this order. Coleman ,1 lith strip , 1/2 cup cold pack, 1/2 cup lye then my pseudo. And shake. ( I see everyone waits to add there pseudo why is that does it help?)when it is done I gas it back. The problems I'm having is not getting a lot of product back. I think one issue is not enough pressure I burp too often. And another is when it doesn't roll hard in the beginning I add water.
    Should I use starting fluid? My Coleman has a blue tent to it and not sure that is good. Also I think another problem is not allowing heat to the cook and when I gas. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks guys, one last thing I'm planning on doing a story tonight with 2 lith strips and a altered about of lye and cold pack any advice on ratios

    You wait to add it because they put crap in the pills to inhibit the production of ammonia
  • u ned 100psi an no more than that more presure means nothing is goingbto happen any faster or watever
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